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Double Stopped Dados?

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Forum topic by Konomigon posted 04-17-2010 02:32 AM 1484 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Konomigon

55 posts in 1893 days


04-17-2010 02:32 AM

Hi,

I’m making a toolbox that requires a series of dados that are stopped on both ends. Anyone have experience doing this? The only two ways to do this I can think of doing this are dropping it onto the router bit or raising the saw blade into it. Any other ideas?

Thank You,

-- Kris


10 replies so far

View oluf's profile

oluf

256 posts in 1706 days


#1 posted 04-17-2010 03:03 AM

If they are cross grain dados I would cut the panel in three pieces and cut full cross dados in the center secton and than edge glue everything back togather. A plunge router with a good jig/fixture will also work, but not be as neet.

-- Nils, So. Central MI. Wood is honest.Take the effort to understand what it has to tell you before you try to change it.

View SnowyRiver's profile

SnowyRiver

51450 posts in 2147 days


#2 posted 04-17-2010 03:21 AM

I would use a plunge router.

-- Wayne - Plymouth MN

View GregD's profile

GregD

619 posts in 1803 days


#3 posted 04-17-2010 04:35 AM

I just bought a really cool doodad at the Woodworking show that is perfect for that. Its from Woodline, but I don’t see it on their site. It rides on their Blue Max “clamp-and-guide” type clamp. But a straight edge clamped to the work and stop blocks clamped to the work or straight edge also works just fine. It is very helpful to mount the straightedge on some thin plywood or hardboard and run the router/bit combination you intend to use to trim the plywood/hardboard so it is exactly at the edge of the cut.

The stuff above applies to work pieces “bigger” than the router. I’m not sure what to do if the pieces are too small for that.

-- Greg D.

View Gene Howe's profile

Gene Howe

5706 posts in 2096 days


#4 posted 04-17-2010 01:09 PM

I use a router table. Mark where the ends of the board will be on the fence to start and stop the dados.
Alternatively, if your fence is long enough or if you use an aux. fence, use stop blocks.

-- Gene 'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton

View charlie48's profile

charlie48

248 posts in 1837 days


#5 posted 04-17-2010 01:16 PM

Another vote for a plunge router. Good luck Kris

-- Charlie............Only time will tell if it was time well spent.

View bladeburner's profile

bladeburner

88 posts in 1754 days


#6 posted 04-17-2010 02:06 PM

With this jig, you can clamp on stops to limit dado lenght.

[img]http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/194/Dado_Jig.JPG[/img]

[url=http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/194/Dado_Jig.JPG][img]http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/194/thumbs/Dado_Jig.JPG[/img][/url]

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Konomigon

55 posts in 1893 days


#7 posted 04-17-2010 02:15 PM

Thanks for all the replies . I completely forget about plunging with a straight edge.

-- Kris

View Gregn's profile

Gregn

1642 posts in 1650 days


#8 posted 04-17-2010 03:00 PM

While most will say use the plunge router, which would also be one of my suggestions as well. I have also done them on the router table marking start and stop points on your fence as well as on your stock, and set the stock down on the bit at the start point and lifting at the end point. The same can be done with the table saw. I tend to use the table saw mostly because I am generally already set up making my through dado’s there and its just easier to do it that way. As with the router table your dado blade is already set for depth of cut so there is no need for raising the blade into the stock, but just to lower the stock to the blade at the start point. The one advantage with the router over the table saw is that there is less chisel work using the router to clean up your start and stop ends. If your using a plunge router be careful when setting up your straight edge clamp to be sure it is square and your set up lines are exact. I like to use the fence on either the router table or table saw for the repeatability of my cuts. Which is why I don’t use my plunge router when making repeatable cuts, as I usually make a mistake somewhere along the line some how.

-- I don't make mistakes, I have great learning lessons, Greg

View Eagle1's profile

Eagle1

2066 posts in 1732 days


#9 posted 04-17-2010 03:21 PM

I would use a plunge router

-- Tim, Missouri ....Inside every older person is a younger person wondering what the heck happened

View Konomigon's profile

Konomigon

55 posts in 1893 days


#10 posted 04-18-2010 04:46 AM

I tried the plunge router with some success. I wouldn’t say perfect, but its close enough. If everything I did in the shop turned out perfect I don’t think I’d keep doing it!

Thanks everyone for the suggestions!

-- Kris

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