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Forum topic by GerryB posted 06-04-2016 06:00 PM 366 views 0 times favorited 7 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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GerryB

69 posts in 2044 days


06-04-2016 06:00 PM

LOML would not be satisfied with anything but Lumbr. Liq. Russian Olive laminate. It is done & doesn’t look half bad. I’ve gotten used to it & since it makes her happy. . . . Yesterday she found a hole in the surface of a board in the middle of a 15X24 foot kitchen. I will not pull up the whole thing just replace one board. How to go about the required replacement? I think I know the answer, but maybe someone has a better idea?

-- The pursuit of excellence is gratifying and healthy. The pursuit of perfection is frustrating, neurotic, and a terrible waste of time. Edwin Bliss


7 replies so far

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Ger21

1047 posts in 2593 days


#1 posted 06-04-2016 06:30 PM

I’d fill the hole with epoxy, and when it starts to gel, just trim it off flush with a sharp chisel. Done.

If you really want to replace it, cut the old one out with a router. The replacement will need at lease two of the tongues or grooves cut off, so you’ll need to glue it in place.

-- Gerry, http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/index.html http://www.jointcam.com

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clin

510 posts in 458 days


#2 posted 06-04-2016 06:34 PM

I’d first try to repair the hole itself. Worst case, you have to pull the board out, which is your other option.

I assume your plan is to cut out the piece that needs replacing. I assume it is a floating floor and just all tongue and groove or similar mating on all 4 sides of a piece.

So it should be easy to get the old one out. Then you have to trim the bits off the new board that won’t allow you to pop it in place. I.E., cut off the bottom part of the groove or trim off the tongue. Then of course glue this board in place.

I think you should be able to keep the tongue on the long side of the board. Maybe if there’s some give you can keep the tongue on the short end and get those two sides in. Then of course cut off the bottom of the two groove sides and glue those down.

You also might check with the manufactuer, they may have a suggested procedure for replacing a board or panel.

-- Clin

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Mike_D_S

185 posts in 1676 days


#3 posted 06-04-2016 09:07 PM

Well, assuming the floor is the tilt and snap together type, the DIY repair instructions for all of them are basically the same.

1. First make sure you have a full replacement piece available.
2. Set a circular saw, small router, kett saw (recommended due to excellent dust collection, but pricey) so the cut depth is the same as the old board.
3. Carefully cut out the middle of the damage board, leaving about 1/2” of the old board all the way around.
4. Using a chisel split the corners of the old board and making additional cuts as needed, remove the rest of the old board by tilting the pieces up and out. Be careful not to damage the tongues and grooves of the surrounding boards as much as possible.
5. Prepare the new piece by trimming off the bottom of the groove and the tongue on the short side.
6. Install the new piece by tilting it and inserting the long edge tongue into the groove, then go ahead and push it down so that it essentially snaps into place.

I’ve made this repair 5 times between my house and for family. Four of the five, you’d never know it had been replaced and the new board doesn’t have a tendency to lift up. The fifth one had a tendency to lift, so I came back and used a small bead of clear caulk on the top of the old tongues to “glue” it down. I cut a small piece of 1/2” ply to over the area and put a cinder block on top of the ply overnight to let the caulk setup and that cured the lifting issue.

This will work on straight laminate and engineered wood floors as long as they are the tilt to install. Laminates like the Ikea straight snap together can also be fixed like this, but getting the old board out is a hassle since you can’t tilt them to remove.

Mike

-- No honey, that's not new, I've had that forever......

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AlaskaGuy

2406 posts in 1771 days


#4 posted 06-05-2016 06:58 PM

I bought bought Quick Step laminate partly because they have a tool for replacing damaged pieces in the middle of a room. Don’t know if it would work on other systems.

https://youtu.be/i5SpHcNti74

With out special tools.

https://youtu.be/PM9H08TL46I

-- Alaskan's for Global warming!

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GerryB

69 posts in 2044 days


#5 posted 06-19-2016 05:19 AM

Thank you kindly Gentlemen!@
NowI have to decide which I will present to “CinCHouse” (AKA SWMBO).
I’m thinking epoxy will give me the least chance of blowing it completely. A little color & it should be unnoticeable. Thanks again!

-- The pursuit of excellence is gratifying and healthy. The pursuit of perfection is frustrating, neurotic, and a terrible waste of time. Edwin Bliss

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runswithscissors

2183 posts in 1487 days


#6 posted 06-19-2016 11:11 PM

Add a little sanding dust to the epoxy, then a drop of oil or varnish to the epoxy after it has cured and been leveled and smoothed.. The wood dust will take up the finish and darken to look like wood. I’ve done this many times. If you happen to used the same species of wood for the sanding dust, it will darken somewhat more than the original wood color.

-- I admit to being an adrenaline junky; fortunately, I'm very easily frightened

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splatman

558 posts in 861 days


#7 posted 06-21-2016 12:41 AM

If the hole is too large to patch with epoxy in a way that it won’t be noticeable, before replacing the entire plank, drill out the damage, leaving a clean hole, cut a circle the same diameter from a scrap of the same material, and glue it in.

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