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Forum topic by jackass posted 04-16-2010 10:24 PM 2565 views 0 times favorited 12 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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jackass

350 posts in 3177 days


04-16-2010 10:24 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question

Just bought my first bottle of Gorilla Glue. I love the glue and the way it penetrates. I found the glue difficult to get out of the bottle, and quite time consuming. I have relatively strong hands but found it hard to squeeze. Is there a glue system that anyone has used to make this a more enjoyable chore?
Jack

-- Jack Keefe Shediac NB Canada


12 replies so far

View GMman's profile

GMman

3902 posts in 3161 days


#1 posted 04-16-2010 11:17 PM

Hi Jack, glad to see you back from your surgery all went very well I heard?
Can’t help you never used that glue I want to try it though.

View ToddTurner's profile

ToddTurner

144 posts in 2787 days


#2 posted 04-17-2010 02:32 AM

This is some powerful stuff here guys. Do not use much as it expands about 15 times original size. Jackass, patients patients patients when using Gorilla glue-it is very thick. I have nicknamed it Gorilla snot for such reason. DO NOT i repeat DO NOT let it run out on your work. it doesnt peel off without taking a little wood with it. It also says to dampen the material you are applying the glue to. Do that becuase it helps the penetration. For wood, the Titebond 3 cant be beat.

View wdwrkr's profile

wdwrkr

26 posts in 2465 days


#3 posted 04-17-2010 02:55 AM

For what it’s worth…
One of my cabinetmakers used Gorilla Glue on pocket hole plugs (cedar plugs) on Douglas Fir exterior railings last December. Because of the weather, we couldn’t paint it until last week. When we went back to the job, the Gorilla glued plugs had ALL come loose, while the ones done with Titebond 3 were solid.
I use Titebond 3 for almost everything, even interior work. I have had glue line failures with several other glues, but never with Titebond.
That said, I made a French Panel style bed many years ago (>10)and glued up the rails and stiles with Gorilla Glue, and it still looks beautiful. But because of the other problems I’ve had with it (hardening in the container) I won’t use it any more.

View Sawdust4Blood's profile

Sawdust4Blood

392 posts in 2485 days


#4 posted 04-17-2010 03:12 AM

I thought Gorilla glue was cool when I first tried it. Over time all the little things (excess foaming, hardening in the bottle, etc) took the luster off my image of it. Then a couple years ago, Wood magazine tested several different types of glue in woodworking. According to their tests, the Titebond was significantly stronger in a properly fitted joint and I haven’t used Gorilla glue since.

-- Greg, Severn MD

View SnowyRiver's profile

SnowyRiver

51452 posts in 2944 days


#5 posted 04-17-2010 03:42 AM

I have used both the Gorilla and Titebond and prefer Titebond, but sometimes if you have a lot of assembly to do the poly glue works well since it gives you time to put everything together.

-- Wayne - Plymouth MN

View John Steffen's profile

John Steffen

218 posts in 2519 days


#6 posted 04-17-2010 03:51 AM

Gorilla glue is great, but it’s definitely NOT for every application. Titebond III is where it’s at for almost everything involving wood-on-wood action.

-- Big John's Woodshed - Farmington, IL

View poopiekat's profile

poopiekat

4225 posts in 3198 days


#7 posted 04-17-2010 03:52 AM

I always lightly spray the joint with water from a spray bottle and wipe off the excess before applying gorilla glue. It needs a bit of moisture to cure properly. Keep the nozzle clean, even if it means digging out the dried glue that accumulates inside the tip.

-- Einstein: "The intuitive mind is a sacred gift, and the rational mind is a faithful servant. We have created a society that honors the servant and has forgotten the gift." I'm Poopiekat!!

View Mike's profile

Mike

391 posts in 3081 days


#8 posted 04-17-2010 07:58 AM

Depends there is the Poly Glue that expands. There is also Gorilla Wood Glue. And Super glue.

I like the Wood glue but don’t really use the poly glue. I do use the super glue all the time. It is the only super glue I found that does not get hard in the bottle after time. Other super or CA glues once opened have to be used fairly soon or the whole bottle becomes a brick. Gorrilla puts a piece of metal in the tube that actually does not allow it to clog. Seems to work.

I either use Gorrilla ot Titebond. But I like the Gorilla better.

-- Measure once cut twice....oh wait....ooops.

View momiji's profile

momiji

11 posts in 2426 days


#9 posted 04-17-2010 08:56 AM

As far as exterior (and water resisting abilities) glue is needed, I agree that Titebound III is better in most cases. But some exotic woods react better to polyurethane. It’s true that they all expand but some more than others. Kleiberit PUR 501 ( http://kleiberit.com/EmailFlaechenverklebungKaschierungEngl0507.pdf ) has a very low expansion ratio. And, an open bottle lasts more than a week before getting hard… I’ve been using it for stair components for the last 3 years on exotics (ipe, cumaru, jatoba, goncalo alves, sucupira, etc,) without problem.

The expansion is not necessarily a defect. Those of us without carbide cutters for our planers and jointers often end up with torn grain on hard exotic woods. That creates gaps that poly glues fill. Another advantage of poly glues is their ability to glue metal and plastics and a lot of other things to wood and vice-versa. One problem with poly glues is spills on your work or your hands; don’t let it dry! Use Bostik Hand Cleaner for your hand and in towels to wipe wet spills. Lastly, anything glued with poly should be left in clamps a minimum of 24 hours.

-- Ah! The loving smell of heated Acer Saccharum...

View richgreer's profile

richgreer

4541 posts in 2538 days


#10 posted 04-17-2010 02:44 PM

Some people don’t realize that there is regular Gorilla Glue and there is also Gorilla Wood Glue. I’m a fan of the Gorilla Wood glue.

The post mentioned having trouble getting the glue out of the bottle. I never squeeze the glue out of the bottle. For smaller projects I remove the cap and stick a disposable glue brush into the bottle. It works great if you do not have a large area to glue. If I have a big glue area, I pour the glue out (instead of squeezing it out) and spread it out with a brush.

-- Rich, Cedar Rapids, IA - I'm a woodworker. I don't create beauty, I reveal it.

View Shopsmithtom's profile

Shopsmithtom

788 posts in 3659 days


#11 posted 04-17-2010 04:44 PM

I tried Gorilla glue & found it to be a royal pain in the A . (arm) Then I read a glue comparison test done by Fine Woodworking Mag and, based on the results, (definitely not the strongest) I now wonder why anyone would use it in woodworking.

It’s messy, it’s difficult to clean up, and the expanding part is just a foamy compound that has no real filling ability or strength. Since I don’t build any furniture that needs absolute waterproofness (I know, that’s not a real word…but you get my point), I don’t see the need.

In fact, that test showed that hide & liquid hide glues were right up there in strength with all the newer stuff & better than Gorilla, so because it cleans up well, especially when you want to stain items, I went back to hide glue & have been delighted with the results.

-- Accuracy is not in your power tool, it's in you

View jackass's profile

jackass

350 posts in 3177 days


#12 posted 04-22-2010 09:53 PM

Thanks to all who responded. I was told to imerse the whole bottle in warm water to soften the contents. Not a viable solution, but might work, this will get me through the only bottle i will ever own. Again many thanks for the input. Am recovering from by-pass surgery, 2 weeks today and doing quite well, what an ordeal.
Jack

-- Jack Keefe Shediac NB Canada

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