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My PC Router won't attach to my Kreg table correctly.

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Forum topic by AngieO posted 06-03-2016 04:05 AM 611 views 0 times favorited 15 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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AngieO

1245 posts in 1609 days


06-03-2016 04:05 AM

Topic tags/keywords: porter cable router router table question

Ok…. it’s been a really long time since I’ve been on LumberJocks. I can’t believe how long it’s been.

I was having some issues with my Router and my Kreg router table. From the day I brought them home I’ve had the same problem. The screws that attach the router sit proud of the table. So… whenever I run a piece of wood across the table it catches on the screw. Not only does this affect accuracy… It also scratches up my wood.

In the picture below it’s the screw to the left of the wood.

So… my first thought was that the holes needed to be countersunk more. So… tonight I FINALLY attempted that. The two screws on the front side were the ones sitting proud of the table. So I got my drill out and tried to drill them out. I’d drill… then test… then drill… then test….

But no matter what I did… no matter how much I drilled those holes out… the screws would still sit proud.

So I decided to flip the plate around. I knew the back hole didn’t have any issues. However… when I flipped the plate and used the back hole in the hole to the left…. same issue. At this point… I figured the issue MUST be in the screw hole on the router itself.

SO…... I took a couple pieces of thin material and made myself some shims. Just to raise the plate away from the base of the router.

You can see in the pic where I had placed the shims to raise the plate up more. SURE ENOUGH!!! The screws now are countersunk and do not snag or scratch my wood. However… this was just a test to see if my theory was correct. I don’t think these little pieces of wood are the best answer.

So after googling the subject and getting no help I finally realized…. THIS is the place to go for answers.

Any suggestions? Is there a way to drill the hole deeper in the router base? Is there a thin shim that actually would attach to my base of the router? What next?


15 replies so far

View TheFridge's profile

TheFridge

5765 posts in 947 days


#1 posted 06-03-2016 04:11 AM

I’d try grinding the head of the screws or pretty much where ever the screw is hitting the router till I got enough clearance.

Myself, I’d prefer not to drill the router or plate if I didn’t have to.

Or just use some washers. That’d prob be the easiest I think?

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

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MrUnix

4210 posts in 1660 days


#2 posted 06-03-2016 04:17 AM

Shorter screws.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

View Lazyman's profile

Lazyman

688 posts in 849 days


#3 posted 06-03-2016 04:39 AM

I agree with Brad (shorter screws). You can verify that by just putting the screws in without the plate and measure how high they protrude when they bottom out. I assume that they are the correct tread as well. If they don’t turn more than about 1 revolution before they stop, they could also be the wrong screws.

-- Nathan, TX -- Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.

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AlaskaGuy

2406 posts in 1770 days


#4 posted 06-03-2016 04:40 AM



Shorter screws.

Cheers,
Brad

- MrUnix


Yep

-- Alaskan's for Global warming!

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AngieO

1245 posts in 1609 days


#5 posted 06-03-2016 04:51 AM

Well… Thanks guys. I didn’t have any shorter screws. But… now I do! i got my dremel out (At the suggestion of a google plus friend) and shortened the screws with a cut off wheel. First time I had messed with cutting metal… but after getting used to it they were done pretty quickly. Thanks for the advice.

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AngieO

1245 posts in 1609 days


#6 posted 06-03-2016 04:53 AM

Oh… and Layman…. .the screws that I had were much thicker than any of the others that I had on hand. I had some of shorter length. And ones that the heads weren’t as thick. But none had the same thickness as the screws that came with it.

But…. now I got it!

View DocSavage45's profile

DocSavage45

7700 posts in 2304 days


#7 posted 06-03-2016 05:11 AM

Angie!

Missed your smiling face! Sounds like you got it solved!

-- Cau Haus Designs, Thomas J. Tieffenbacher

View Roger's profile

Roger

19867 posts in 2265 days


#8 posted 06-03-2016 12:19 PM

Carry on Angie.

-- Roger from KY. Work/Play/Travel Safe. Keep your dust collector fed. Kentuk55@yahoo.com

View JoeinGa's profile

JoeinGa

7479 posts in 1468 days


#9 posted 06-03-2016 12:21 PM

Good job on fixing the screws yourself!
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So tell us …. WHO are you again??? The face is familiar, but I’m gettin’ older so names sometimes escape me…

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. Oh and are you still sanding cabinets?
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-- Perform A Random Act Of Kindness Today ... Pay It Forward

View Jim Jakosh's profile

Jim Jakosh

17142 posts in 2567 days


#10 posted 06-03-2016 12:54 PM

Just countersink the holes in the Kreg plate a bit deeper. I modify new stuff all the time to make it work…..........especially Harbor Freight tools!!

-- Jim Jakosh.....Practical Wood Products...........Learn something new every day!! Variety is the Spice of Life!!

View AngieO's profile

AngieO

1245 posts in 1609 days


#11 posted 06-03-2016 03:38 PM

I did try to countersink the holes in the plate. But the screws kept bottoming out.

JoeinGa… I Know! It’s been way too long. However… not so long that when I saw your pic I was like… Isn’t that supposed to be JoeinTN…. ? But you had changed that before I was off here.

I’ve got a lot of stuff going on in my shop. I’m out there more often now. So I hope to be on here more. It’s good to see you guys.

View Lazyman's profile

Lazyman

688 posts in 849 days


#12 posted 06-03-2016 04:16 PM

Angie, Just make sure that if these were the original screws that attach the normal base plate to the router that they are still long enough if you ever use it with the normal base plate again. Take note of how much you cut off in case you need to go buy some new ones at the hardware store. They could be metric so you’ll want to take them with you to the store to get the right size and thread if you do have to buy new ones.

Just a thought.

-- Nathan, TX -- Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.

View Jim Jakosh's profile

Jim Jakosh

17142 posts in 2567 days


#13 posted 06-03-2016 05:29 PM

Hi Angie. I guess I don’t understand what the screws are going into. They must be blind holes in the router?
If that is the case and you already countersunk the plate to be deep enough to clear on top, then you have grind off the ends of the screws until they tighten up without bottoming out. On all the routers that I have , the screws go clear through so the ends are in the air and never get into play. I don’t have any PC routers to look at.

That should do it for you!
Jim

-- Jim Jakosh.....Practical Wood Products...........Learn something new every day!! Variety is the Spice of Life!!

View teejk02's profile

teejk02

423 posts in 587 days


#14 posted 06-03-2016 09:10 PM

First pix looks like round heads…seems to me that those screws would not have worked on the PC standard base plate either (which I doubt is any thicker than a router table). All that said the old PC stuff seems to require PC screws!. Try to find one to hold their router guide properly.

View AngieO's profile

AngieO

1245 posts in 1609 days


#15 posted 06-03-2016 09:57 PM

Jim… yes. Two of the three holes are blind holes. The third goes all the way through and was having no issues. So I did end up trimming them down with my dremel.

Lazyman…. out of the three screws two of them would not sit right. So the third one is still at it’s original length. I don’t see me taking this router out of the table much… But they are still long enough to hold the plate. They were just sitting proud of the table enough to snag and scratch the wood.

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