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Adding $200 -$400 Fence to $100 Craftsman 113

7K views 55 replies 27 participants last post by  JIMMIEM 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
I realize there are several forum topics on this subject, but I am still completely confused on is it really worth spending $200 - $400 dollars on a fence for a 30 year old Craftsman Table saw. The saw works great and I haven't had trouble cutting through anything. However, as everyone knows the original fence was a nightmare. I bought a 24/12 craftsmen fence for a newer version of the saw, but neither me nor a more experienced woodworker could get it to lock down straight.

I am just looking for some fresh perspective is it worth buying a fence that cost almost as much as a new saw (or 4 times what I paid for this one). I would rather be buying a bandsaw, sharpening set up for my hand tools, than a fence or a new table saw. I keep looking at the Delta T2 (but I don't own a drill press to make the modifications and not entirely sure I trust myself) and the Vega fences. Let me know your thoughts.
 
#4 ·
I was in the same boat 20 years ago, and ended up attaching a fence made by Ridgid to my 1970's Craftsman saw. Never regretted it. I had also added a machined pulley and link belt set to the saw, and a bladed stabilizer flange which vastly improved it's performance.
 
#7 ·
In my opinion, yes it's worth it. It will make using your saw drastically easier and more accurate (assuming that your align your blade to the fence). Even if you decide to upgrade your saw at a later time, you will still have the good fence to put on the upgraded saw.
 
#10 ·
One closer to $200? Yes. One of the $400 one? No. That plus selling your saw for $100 gets you into used cabinet saw territory price range. I'd rather buy a used saw than to spruce up the craftsman saw.
 
#11 ·
One closer to $200? Yes. One of the $400 one? No. That plus selling your saw for $100 gets you into used cabinet saw territory price range. I d rather buy a used saw than to spruce up the craftsman saw.

- jmartel
At least around here, the used cabinet saws in the $500 range have really crappy fences. So, you are still in the same boat. That's why I think investing in a fence is money well spent. Though, I will say that $400-$500 gets you into the range of good used contractor saws, that have good fences.
 
#12 ·
I think the answer is yes, but you can ask it a different way: if you had $300 to spend, what could you get that was better? I think unless you found a really great deal on CL, that you would be hard pressed to find a better saw+fence then a decent 113 and a T2. You have a solid chunk of cast iron, decent power, decent mechanics, and a good fence.
You don't have a riving knife, but you can use microsplitters. You would be hard pressed to find a better alternative. Most other $300 combinations would be much smaller saws, with a lot more aluminum, less power and crappy fences.
 
#14 ·
It really depends on where you live on the price of used cabinet saws. Never seen a deal like that around here. OTOH, I got my Classic fence on CL for $50! That's the only deal I've seen like that.
 
#19 ·
Perhaps another option might be to make your own. There are plenty of examples of DIY fences on the internet and even a few on LJ that you might find doable. You will find examples made from wood, metal or both. Might be a cheaper option depending upon your metal working capabilities.
 
#20 ·
Thanks for the advice.

1) I don't think I have space for a full cabinet saw. My shop is an 12' x 22' outdoor shed and everything needs to be pretty mobile.

2) As I read these peoples post it is more convincing me to keep it. I bought the saw for $120 and the guy who had it before me had everything with it down to the original blade. I think since I don't have a fence on it and it would probably would be a good time to tear it down lube it up add machined pulleys and a v-link belt.

3) Fence wise:

Delta T2 - It seems the only around $200 option is from home depot.
Saw Stop - Toolorbit.com list it but if you add it to a cart they show they don't carry it anymore
Shop Fox - Seems to be in the 300+ish range and has to be modified.
Vega - I could get the Utility 26 from Rockler for 289 + shipping. The perk is it can attach to the saw with minimal modifications.

I haven't looked for the rigid fence for it yet.
 
#21 ·
The link belt is an amazing upgrade for this saw. i would never have believed the difference if I hadn't seen it myself-quieter and smoother.

Drilling holes for a fence isn't that hard, but I can identify with looking for the easiest change. You sometimes will see almost new fences on CL (at least around here) because people buy new cabinet saws and then put an Incra or other fence on them and sell the stock fence.
 
#22 ·
I think you have it right. I wouldn't hesitate to get the T2 from HD. It was easy to drill and attach on mine.

Another thing - when you do go to upgrade the 113, you can get a lot more for it with the T2 on it that if you sell it with just the factory fence. I didn't get my $200 on it, but I got $125 over the going rate for a 113 in my area when I upgraded to my Sawstop PCS.

You could consider adding the PALS when you tear it down. I didn't find it all that difficult to align without a PALS, but I considered more than a few times when I overshot where I was trying to get with the bolts loosened up. Get a cheapie dial indicator from HD and buy or build a miter slot jig to hold it. You can get your 113 aligned very well with the right tool.

I also did well fabricating a dust collection mechanism for my 113. It never really worked well, but it was a whole lot better than nothing. I put a bottom on the sheet metal, closed off the tilt adjustment opening, shrouded the belt, and added a port for my DC.

And, of course, a ZCI. These are really easy to make yourself for this TS. I bought one once. Waste of $$.
 
#23 ·
You could consider adding the PALS when you tear it down. I didn t find it all that difficult to align without a PALS, but I considered more than a few times when I overshot where I was trying to get with the bolts loosened up. Get a cheapie dial indicator from HD and buy or build a miter slot jig to hold it. You can get your 113 aligned very well with the right tool.

And, of course, a ZCI. These are really easy to make yourself for this TS. I bought one once. Waste of $$.

- brtech
+1 on both of these. although I have about 4 ZCI's I've purchased and about 8 or 10 that I have made (one for every dado size and blade tilt that I use).
 
#24 · (Edited by Moderator)
+1 on what Charles said about the link belt.

I have my dad's mid-90's 113 saw. He bought it with the XR24/24 fence. While it was an ok fence I knew I wanted something better after I got the saw home. I ended up getting a Delta T3. I know some people have had problems with the T3 as opposed to the T2, but it's made a world of difference on the saw. I had a little problem with the mounting, but nothing insurmountable (no pun intended). There are a few blogs about mounting the fence here that were a big help for me. The T3 and the link belt have made using the saw soooo much better.

One other thing, what you mentioned about giving the saw a through cleaning and lubing, excellent idea. That's what I did with my saw after I got it home. Learned a little more about the saw by doing it which came in handy when I aligned everything.

Ok, one last thing lol. I'd recommend putting a paddle switch on the saw as well. I have found that it makes a huge difference when you're busy with what's going on on top of the table to be able to simply bump the paddle with your leg to turn it off.
 
#25 · (Edited by Moderator)
Thanks for the advice.

1) I don t think I have space for a full cabinet saw. My shop is an 12 x 22 outdoor shed and everything needs to be pretty mobile.

- nogeel
A cabinet saw doesn't take up any more room than a contractor saw. A Unisaw actually has a smaller footprint than the 113 because the motor is internal instead of hanging off the back. Once either of them are on a good mobile base, they are about the same to move around, too. The bigger deciding factor would be whether you have 240V available or are able to get it run to where you need it. The cabinet saw needs 240V and is heavier, but taking up additional space is not a factor.

At its most basic, a table saw is a blade driven by a motor that protrudes through a flat surface for supporting stock. All the other "stuff" is about making that process easier, safer and more accurate. The basic 113 is a decent saw with a good main table. Adding an upgraded fence is about easier and more accurate. I had a 113 that got the basic Shop Fox fence (model W1411) and it made a huge difference. Because the place I work is a Shop Fox dealer, I got a very good deal on that fence. If paying full retail, I would have gone with the Delta-it's a much better system for that saw.
 
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