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Removing unwanted expoxy squeeze-out

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Forum topic by Bret posted 1546 days ago 701 views 0 times favorited 4 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Bret

162 posts in 2077 days


1546 days ago

Topic tags/keywords: question

I’m planning to stop by Woodcraft this afternoon to ask their input as well, but here’s what happened:

I’m building a frame for my wife for a Mother’s Day present. It’s tiger maple with santos mahogany trim. The maple is already dyed & oiled; the mahogany is as yet unfinished. I’m planning to go with a wiping varnish over the whole thing.

Unfortunately, gluing the maple into the mahogany trim (I glued each up separately to ensure good corners) didn’t go so well. There were some gaps and I thought I’d just spread some epoxy in them to fill & bind—the gaps are all on the back side of the frame, so who’d ever see? I clamped the piece face-down on my workbench and did exactly that.

Woe was me a few hours later when I removed the clamps. The frame had stuck to the piece of hardboard I was using to protect the frame’s face, and I mean it was STUCK. Lots of epoxy had run down the mahogany and a slight bead had formed along one edge where the maple and mahogany meet.

I’ve been able to remove much of the larger spill by going at it first with a chisel and then following up with sandpaper (80 grit for now—I’ll clean it up with higher grits later) but was wondering if there’s a better way to remove the epoxy that’s up against the maple? I really don’t want to have to sand it all down and refinish it again but if I have to, I will.

Also, how far down do I need to sand? Until I can’t see any more darkness from where the epoxy soaked in a bit?

Thanks. Feeling rather stupid, especially since I remember thinking, “I wonder if any will spill through? No, that couldn’t happen….”

-- Woodworking is easy as 3.14159265358979323846264338327950288419716939937510...


4 replies so far

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tblank

52 posts in 1553 days


#1 posted 1543 days ago

I think you may have to take it down to bare wood to remove any trace. A friend uses thinned out epoxy as a finish and it is bullet proof. He has test pieces that have been in the weather for five years with no fade or breakdown. You can follow up with a rubbed wax over it to polish it up. Also I learned the hard way about 80 grit in a random orbit will leave tiny swirls that don’t show until stain is applied. Be sure to go as fine as it takes to circumvent this. Epoxy is VERY aggressive stuff.

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a1Jim

111999 posts in 2160 days


#2 posted 1543 days ago

Sorry about that. It’s the sand of and refinish routine Epoxies a tough one.

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

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swied

74 posts in 2345 days


#3 posted 1542 days ago

Yeah. You need to sand it down to remove the epoxy. I was going to suggest that you epoxy the whole thing, but then I read that you already oiled the maple. Epoxy doesn’t get along with oil (fish-eye city).

-- Scott, San Diego

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Bret

162 posts in 2077 days


#4 posted 1542 days ago

I think what I’m going to do is run the whole thing over the tablesaw to remove the current edging and then mill new edging a bit differently to try to keep the proportions the same. I just don’t see a good way to remove the epoxy even through sanding since the edging sits higher than the main frame body.

Thanks for the ideas—I had figured this was going to be my only real option but figured I’d toss it to the group and see what other ideas might exist. Thanks again!

-- Woodworking is easy as 3.14159265358979323846264338327950288419716939937510...

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