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Dust Collector Problem

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Forum topic by JK0702 posted 05-31-2016 03:13 AM 651 views 0 times favorited 16 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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JK0702

131 posts in 1590 days


05-31-2016 03:13 AM

I finally got my dust collection system in place. Last night, to test it, I turned the dust collector on for a couple of minutes and everything worked fine. This morning I adjusted some of the hose fitting and looked things over once again. I noticed that my test last night was done with both blast gates closed. I opened one gate to run it again and just as the motor was starting up, the circuit breaker (in the dust collector) popped. This happened repeatedly as I changed out the extension cord, the surge protector, and I even disconnected the hoses from the dust collector.

I can’t figure out why it went from working fine, to not working at all. I don’t thing I did anything different. Maybe the circuit breaker needs to be replaced, or maybe (according to the manual) the capacitor needs replacing. I have no idea how to check either of those two options. If anyone can help me out here, I’d be deeply grateful.

It’s a Craftsman 1 1/2 hp (continuous) 2.1 hp max. Model #152.213371. I’ve run 4” hose from it.

Thanks

Update: After trouble shooting everything that I could, my problem still existed. I took the motor in to have it checked out. Turns out the motor had shorted out. So now I’m in the market for a new dust collector. I won’t be buying another Craftsman, but I will start looking through the forum for better units. I like the Grizzly, and they have a little sale going on. I’ve read mixed reviews on the Delta and Jet units. As always, any input from you guys would be appreciated. I can go with either a 110v or 220v option.

Thanks again

-- John - Huntington Beach, CA --- Growth occurs when we get out of our comfort zone.


16 replies so far

View finns's profile

finns

99 posts in 2575 days


#1 posted 05-31-2016 03:23 AM

Hey John. What brand and model DC do you have?

View JK0702's profile

JK0702

131 posts in 1590 days


#2 posted 05-31-2016 03:46 AM

Sorry, I should have included that info. It’s a Craftsman 1 1/2 hp (continuous) 2.1 hp max. Model #152.213371

-- John - Huntington Beach, CA --- Growth occurs when we get out of our comfort zone.

View conifur's profile

conifur

955 posts in 611 days


#3 posted 05-31-2016 03:59 AM

I just cant imagine all all the electrical problems I read on this forum, it has to be the user. Operator error.

-- Knowledge and experience equals Wisdom, Michael Frankowski

View conifur's profile

conifur

955 posts in 611 days


#4 posted 05-31-2016 04:17 AM

Take off your breaker box cover, find the breaker that feeds that circuit, turn it off, then on the side of that breaker where the wire for feeding that circuit, attaches to the breaker make sure it is tight, they can loosen up over time. Then get rid of the cheap surge protector and plug into a real outlet and see what happens. I doubt it is the capacitor. It could be a bad motor but I doubt that 2. I bet it is a bad thing in the dust collector breaker.

-- Knowledge and experience equals Wisdom, Michael Frankowski

View clin's profile

clin

510 posts in 455 days


#5 posted 05-31-2016 04:26 AM

The way the motors and impellers work in a typical DC system, the motor UNLOADS when it is NOT moving air. So I suspect that when your blast gates were closed the motor had relatively little load. But with them open, it is now moving air and doing more work.

This might explain what is different.

I suspect something is wrong with the unit, maybe just a bad breaker.

Of course if your wiring to the DC is bad and it’s not getting enough voltage, maybe that would cause it to draw more current and trip the breaker. Have you tried different outlets?

I bad cap could prevent it from starting. Have you checked the connection to the motor and starter cap? Maybe as simply as a loose wire to a starter cap.

-- Clin

View Lazyman's profile

Lazyman

686 posts in 846 days


#6 posted 05-31-2016 04:33 AM

One reason it wouldn’t have tripped when no gates were open may be that a vac or blower that is blocked has less load so doesn’t pull as much power. This is why a vac actually speeds up when you block the suction with your hand, though I am not sure how much difference that makes during motor start up. Running a motor with no load for extended time is not a good idea. You might try starting the blower with all gates closed and then opening up a gate after it starts. It is possible that the breaker is defective and might need to be replaced. Most breakers actually trip due to heat build up when overloaded and I’ve had to replace resettable breakers after they’ve blown. If you have access to an amp meter, that might help you see how much power it is pulling.

-- Nathan, TX -- Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.

View finns's profile

finns

99 posts in 2575 days


#7 posted 05-31-2016 04:44 AM

I looked at the manual. I would start by eliminating the surge protector and extension cord and insuring 120v to the DC. Check to see if the circuit breaker for the outlet is ok (proper rating). If the motor is overheating the DC breaker will pop but the motor should start back up after it cools down. You may need to grab a meter and check to see if the breaker is actually resetting and that the starting capacitor is not shorted out.

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

3925 posts in 1952 days


#8 posted 05-31-2016 10:53 AM

What they said about no load versus loaded is your problem I suspect. An amp meter (assuming you’ve checked the electrical feed stuff) will bear this out. Running the motor with no load will do no damage. The motor will simply loaf along at it’s stated RPM (again, proven with an amp meter). A motor trying to move too much air will draw more amps to reached it’s stated speed, and may trip the breaker. You didn’t indicate what size line feeds to the DC. If you have oversized lines (6”) you may be allowing too much air flow for the motor to handle with overloading.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

View JK0702's profile

JK0702

131 posts in 1590 days


#9 posted 05-31-2016 06:39 PM

Thanks for all of your input. With this knowledge, I will start trouble shooting this evening.

-- John - Huntington Beach, CA --- Growth occurs when we get out of our comfort zone.

View Kelly's profile

Kelly

1108 posts in 2403 days


#10 posted 05-31-2016 06:54 PM

I go with starting with removing it from a surge protected circuit too.

Is anything else running on the circuit? Get it off by itself, if you can.

Next, make sure you’re running it on a 12 gauge (20 amp) circuit. If it’s a 14 gauge (15 amp) circuit, don’t crank the circuit breaker up to a twenty to get there. Depending on the efficiency of the motor, you, very easily, could tax a 14 gauge circuit.

If you had to, you could make an industrial grade extension cord just long enough to get power off a dedicated circuit.

View msss's profile

msss

2 posts in 184 days


#11 posted 05-31-2016 07:19 PM

My dust collector system is in the infancy. I got a new (14g) shop vac, and a 20gal bucket with sealing lid. I will cut a hole and put a cyclone thing on it- and then plug a hose into my table, radial arm, band saws, and one into my router table. I dont spend hours and hours out there, so me investing in a huge system would not be smart but I hope I am not wasting my time.

I can tell you one thing—I got a cheap cyclone thing on ebay- from china. JUNK. NO hoses will fit it- the fittings are oddball sizes and I even ordered fittings with it (from seller) and they dont fit it. I then bought one from amazon—from the company who makes and sells them here in the US- it was 2.5x the price but the in/out fittings are 2.5”—the size of a shop vac hose. Thanks

View JK0702's profile

JK0702

131 posts in 1590 days


#12 posted 06-02-2016 11:42 PM

I am now looking for a new dust collector. any thoughts on which one to get?

-- John - Huntington Beach, CA --- Growth occurs when we get out of our comfort zone.

View clin's profile

clin

510 posts in 455 days


#13 posted 06-02-2016 11:58 PM

You’re going to get lots of opinions. If I had 240 V available, I’d look for a “real” system, and by that I mean something 3HP or more that will get the job done once and for all. But everyone has their own budget limits and perceptions of what is good enough.

You can go the $200 HF route or 10X more for something like a 5HP Clearview.

Since you are new to LJ, perhaps you are not yet familiar with Bill Pentz. He’s a sort of self made expert on dust collection. I think his opinions are very well grounded in data. Others think he’s a bit of an alarmist overstating the dangers of wood dust.

In any case, if you haven’t been to his web site, check it out at:

http://billpentz.com/woodworking/cyclone/

He at least has lots of info that you can use to decide how far you want to take this.

-- Clin

View JK0702's profile

JK0702

131 posts in 1590 days


#14 posted 06-03-2016 12:08 AM

Clin,
Thanks for the info. I will check out Bill’s web site

-- John - Huntington Beach, CA --- Growth occurs when we get out of our comfort zone.

View bbasiaga's profile

bbasiaga

753 posts in 1454 days


#15 posted 06-03-2016 02:37 AM

My HF unit will trip out occasionally if I start it without the blast gate at least partially closed. High inrush current trips my breaker (house breaker, not on the unit). In my case, this is probably because I have put in a separator ahead, and a Wynn filter after. This has much less resistance than the stock bag, allowing the fan to more more air and over amp the motor.

If I were you, I would see if there is a spot where the gate can be set to allow a safe start up. Failing that, I would start it with the gate closed and then slowly open it.

New kit is always fun though.

Brian

-- Part of engineering is to know when to put your calculator down and pick up your tools.

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