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Forum topic by splintergroup posted 05-29-2016 01:35 PM 707 views 0 times favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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splintergroup

827 posts in 684 days


05-29-2016 01:35 PM

Topic tags/keywords: powermatic model 141 model 30 bandsaw sander

Well, not really a gloat in the sense of finding these sitting on the curb, but they do fill a ‘gap’ in my power tool army that will make life easer (eventually)! I bought these at auction so I assume I paid a fair price, no steals but a bit less than I had anticipated and much cheaper then new.

First up is my new bandsaw

Powermatic model 141 14”. The inspection sticker inside the top door says made in March of 1964 (Dang! Younger than I am!). This saw will sit beside (and slightly below) my MiniMax. I finally got tired of swapping blades between resawing and pattern/template cutting. The way I see it, this new saw can keep a small blade (3/8” or 1/4”) installed for everything I cut that has a curve. A second bandsaw is very handy and they don’t have a big footprint so they can hide in the corner.

The picture shows the saw about an hour after I decided to “inspect and clean” it, so the blade guide an other obviously missing parts really are all there.

I don’t have a clue as to what happened to the paint (the dark stuff is not blood). Anybody have suggestions as to a good, durable paint for a refinish (and a color name/number to match the original)? As I write this, I have already stripped the saw down to the small bits and have begun sanding and scraping the mess. I have some Variprime (zinc oxide) primer that should allow for a good base coat

The only signs of ‘problems’ are the tires are in rough shape (they are the originals) and the chrome plating on the upper guide bar is flaking off. The motor has been replaced with a 3/4 HP cooler motor (centrifugal switch start) which should be ok since there is no real load during startup. The power switch has been replaced with a light switch so I’ll need to find a proper replacement. It’ll need to fit into the saws switch box which appears to be the same size as a single-gang electrical switch box.

Any tips tricks on replacing tires? My MM has a groove that they just snap into, these appear to be glued (with what? weather strip adhesive?). Poly or rubber?

All the bearings sound/feel great except a few of the guide bearings are a bit sticky. Dust collection is also a needed mod.

Next on the list is a hefty 12” disc, 6” belt sander (Powermatic model 30).

This has an original 1.5HP motor. It needs some TLC to fix some dings and dust collection fittings added. This has been on the wish list as my only alternative is a small Delta combo sander (8” disc, 3” belt, universal motor, and lots of flexy parts.) The switch needs a replace, same specs as the bandsaw, and I need to find a few adjustment knobs that have gone missing.

The motor head in my blood says do a full-up restore on the bandsaw with new bearings and automotive paint, the sane part of me says get it back together and running before I start loosing the parts….


9 replies so far

View RibsBrisket4me's profile

RibsBrisket4me

1526 posts in 1967 days


#1 posted 05-29-2016 02:13 PM

Wow, those are two really nice machines! Please post the after pics.

Congrats!

View splintergroup's profile

splintergroup

827 posts in 684 days


#2 posted 05-29-2016 03:12 PM

Will do Ribs!

More searching suggests urethane tires are the top choice, no glue and no crowning.

View AandCstyle's profile

AandCstyle

2566 posts in 1719 days


#3 posted 05-30-2016 01:11 AM

Hey, Splinter, it looks like you have your work cut out for you. The restorations would make a great blog if you are so inclined. ;)

-- Art

View loiblb's profile

loiblb

107 posts in 518 days


#4 posted 05-30-2016 02:58 AM

The deal with this band saw is the wheels have no crown. The rubber tires had crowns after they are installed put on them. There is a You tube vid on replacing tires on this saw. Good info

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zz04k-GMF38

View splintergroup's profile

splintergroup

827 posts in 684 days


#5 posted 05-30-2016 01:23 PM

Yep. I read about crowning after installing (w/glue) for the rubber tires. I think I’ll try the urethane tires, they seem easy enough.

Art, I hope I don’t get trapped into a “restoration”! (my plate is full enough), however, I have already stripped the bandsaw down to the nuts, removed the old paint, and I am getting ready to primer it this morning (gak!)

My dilemma now is I decided to better check the upper wheel spindle bearings and they are a bit rough. The bad part is I can’t yet for the life of me find any.

They carry an innocuous part number “MRC 2035” and appear to be a garden variety roller bearing, but they don’t cross reference to any standards. Dimensions are strange as well for a machine from the 60’s.

outer dia. 1.572, inner dia. 0.670, width 0.472 with a retaining ring groove. The numbers don’t even cross to a standard metric bearing. I’m going to remeasure with more precision and hope at least I can hit on a standard.

E-replacementparts.com claim to have them, at $45 each. (ouch). I still have hope.

These units followed me home from a closing cabinet shop in Albuquerque. Kinda sad, but I’m glad the old tooling went to new homes.

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splintergroup

827 posts in 684 days


#6 posted 05-30-2016 02:25 PM

Ok, with some help from the archives at OWWM,org, I have a bearing list (phew!). They are metric (hey! I demand all of my old ‘merican ‘arn have real units like cubits, furlongs or all else failing, imperial! None of this continental metric hoo-haw!—-just kidding!)

So, about $40 for bearings on both the top and bottom spindles, another $40 for new space-age (the 60’s!) tires, and about $30 in paint remover, primer (zinc chromate, not oxide…brain fart), and paint. A new switch from Grizzly ($14) and the re-assembly has begun!

View stefang's profile

stefang

15512 posts in 2796 days


#7 posted 05-30-2016 04:03 PM

Great machines!

-- Mike, an American living in Norway.

View splatman's profile

splatman

558 posts in 861 days


#8 posted 05-31-2016 04:55 AM

The bearings can (Probably!) be had much cheaper from a bearing supplier.

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splintergroup

827 posts in 684 days


#9 posted 05-31-2016 01:08 PM



The bearings can (Probably!) be had much cheaper from a bearing supplier.

- splatman

Exactly Splat!

I was beginning to think they were some old, extinct style since the number would not translate and ereplacment parts was hoarding the last few for big $$$. Most of their similar bearings go for about $10, these were $45!

Armed with the correct part numbers, I’ve found them in price ranges from low cost Chinese imports that probably will wear out sitting in the box up to moderately priced US or Japanese versions (which is what I’ll use).
The bearings have a retaining ring groove cut into the sides which makes locating a replacement slightly more perilous.

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