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Forum topic by souichiro posted 04-10-2010 04:15 AM 3032 views 0 times favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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souichiro

369 posts in 2811 days


04-10-2010 04:15 AM

I recently bought the SuperNova 2 chuck (http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2005199/4174/TEKNATOOL-SuperNova2.aspx) when it was on sale at woodcraft. I got the thread insert and a nylon washer for my lathe. My question is, how in the heck do I use this thing??? I am really excited to do small things that I can hold/chuck from one side. Like drawer pulls, chess pieces, and a yo-yo! Please Please Please tell me that I bought the correct thing. I had looked at these so much last year for which brands and such. And when I saw it on sale I jumped.

After I mount it, can I still chuck for spindles with my same center? Or do I need to change chucks back and forth?

Do I have to turn a piece round first, and then chuck it into the Nova?

Do I have to glue a scrap piece onto the bottom of my work, and then chuck that?

-- Dale, Oregon


9 replies so far

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interpim

1158 posts in 2924 days


#1 posted 04-10-2010 04:27 AM

there are several ways, depending on the jaws you have I have some pin jaws with my chuck that I chuck odd shaped pieces in by first drilling a 1 1/4” hole down about 1/2” with a forstner bit, then gripping that way. You can chuck up round stuff, as well as square stuff (ensure it’s actually square) You can also glue on blocks to your wood you are turning as well. It is very versatile, just make sure it’s secure, and if it doesn’t feel safe, don’t do it.

-- San Diego, CA

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souichiro

369 posts in 2811 days


#2 posted 04-10-2010 05:38 AM

Thanks interpim, do you do your bowls with this chuck?? Would I have to invest in a different tool rest to do bowls do you think? for the insides.

-- Dale, Oregon

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interpim

1158 posts in 2924 days


#3 posted 04-10-2010 07:52 AM

I don’t have this chuck, but I do my bowls with a chuck similar to this, I use the Barracuda system
I use the tool rest that came with my lathe to make my bowls, but if you want to get much deeper I would invest in a S curve rest.
If you are starting out on bowls I would recommend trying a few with some chunks of firewood and after you’ve turned a dozen or so, you’ll get the feel for what you need/want for future endeavors.

-- San Diego, CA

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4woodturning

187 posts in 2447 days


#4 posted 04-10-2010 08:15 AM

I have had that chuck for years,very nice chuck. if you have the 50mm jaws which was standard with the chuck body. you can turn bowls with a tendon or a recess tendon. also should have came with a screw to insert inside of your chuck jaws which really comes in handy.(called screw chucking) just be sure your tendon don’t bottom out inside the chuck and tendon is con caved to match your jaws. also the wall that the end of your jaws hit, are true straight up and down, not on a angle towards tail stock. this is where your pressure point to hold that bowl tight.

you should be able to turn your bowls with the tool rest you have as long as your able to adjust it so your not over extending your tools.

Just like Interpim said “if it doesn’t feel safe, don’t do it.”

-- Jeff, Missouri ,"Just because your not bleeding, dont mean your turning safely!"..............http://www.4woodturning.com

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souichiro

369 posts in 2811 days


#5 posted 04-10-2010 09:36 AM

It came with the 50mm jaws yep. So I’m guessing that the tendon would be a rounded portion of the stock, as if I was to round my piece first using the head and tail centers. Then use the chuck to clamp down on the outside of the tendon at the head portion of my piece. And turn whatever is desired on the remainder, cutting off then tendon when I’m done. Does this sound correct? What is a recess tendon? It sounds like similar, but maybe opening my chuck jaws to “clamp” the piece. If that’s correct, when would this be a preferred method?

The only jaws that I have are these 50mm ones, so I’ll learn what I can with them, and hopefully get a better idea of what I should look at next. It did come with a large screw called a woodworm screw. Although I can’t picture what in the heck it is for. Is this for tapping a matching thread into a piece, and then chucking the screw?

Anyway, thanks so much for the information Jeff and Interpim, it is much appreciated! \

-- Dale, Oregon

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4woodturning

187 posts in 2447 days


#6 posted 04-10-2010 03:08 PM

“I’m guessing that the tendon would be a rounded portion of the stock, as if I was to round my piece first using the head and tail centers. Then use the chuck to clamp down on the outside of the tendon at the head portion of my piece. And turn whatever is desired on the remainder, cutting off then tendon when I’m done. Does this sound correct?” ichi

lets say you turn a 4×4 between centers, and your chuck jaws are 1/2” deep on the inside. so you would turn a tendon 3/8” so that it does not bottom out the chuck and tapered to match your jaw profile, and the tendon turned down to 3” round now you have a 1” wall for the end of your jaws to rest against. now with your chuck clamp down on the tendon and use the tail stock to keep some pressure against your turning so the hit the wall tight and stay true. now you have two points of pressure to hold that piece. and yes after your done turning part off. on bowls you would reverse jam chuck and turn tendon away.

the worm screw is for screw chucking and will replace your faceplate. if you look on the inside where your jaws meet you will see that the jaws does not meet at a point when closed. insert your worm screw, drill a hole in your the center of a bowl blank in the side grain only, will not hold in the end grain, screw it on tight to the chuck jaws, bring up the tail stock to hold blank till turn round and balanced (like my picture next to my name) at that point you can turn tendon or recess tendon.

recess tendons are nice on smaller bowls, plates and platters. after screw chucked finish the outside of your bowl and leave a foot on bottom. then remove your tail stock and recess an tendon again match your jaw profile of the outside of your jaws, remove all the materiel the inside of your recess so the bowl will rest on the most out part of your foot. then remove it from worm screw, insert chuck and spread jaws, again using tail stock for pressure, once you hollow out bowl your done no tendon to remove. CAUTION BE SURE OF YOUR DEPTH SO YOU DON’T HIT CHUCK JAWS.

I hope this helps you and not to confuse you also would like to see pictures of your project.

-- Jeff, Missouri ,"Just because your not bleeding, dont mean your turning safely!"..............http://www.4woodturning.com

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interpim

1158 posts in 2924 days


#7 posted 04-10-2010 08:14 PM

I wrote a bit of a tutorial on how I do some of my turning using my chuck. If you want to check it out go here
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/30638

-- San Diego, CA

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SCOTSMAN

5839 posts in 3051 days


#8 posted 04-10-2010 08:44 PM

Invest in a screw for your chuck ,then drill a hole to match in the wood bowl blank,then screw the bowl blank onto the chuick with screw intermediary.Now , not any old screw a chuck screw then when you turn the outside of the bowl add a small spigot to the bottom of the outside of your bowl and reverse setting the chuck jaws into the spigot .Why not get a few dvd’s to watch the process or even youtube will show how this is done wish you were nearer I have a few here I could lend you.It’s quite easy really have fun I’ve only been woodturning ten years or more and it’s still fun so have fun Regards Alistair

-- excuse my typing as I have a form of parkinsons disease

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reggiek

2240 posts in 2736 days


#9 posted 04-10-2010 08:48 PM

As mentioned above…there are several ways to do your chucking. It mostly depends on weight of the blank and distance from the chuck (Main Stock). The taller the piece…the more lateral force on the chuck.

For Bowls, I will do my outside shaping and finishing between centers (a non revolving steb on the main stock and a revolving steb center on the tailstock)....after rouging to round I cut a tenon on the bottom side of the bowl to chuck up in the jaws when I am ready to gouge out the topside. Some folks will glue or screw on wooden disks as tenons…I find this a bit tedious for me as then you must contend with screw holes or glue residue – also in order to center the tenon…you must chuck up and turn the outside on the chuck in order to insure that you are centered for the inside goughing (this puts a lot of lateral stress on a glue or screw joint – and does cause them to fail quite a bit)....a lathe made tenon is by virtue centered due to centrifigal force and by using it only for goughing subjects it to much less lateral stresses.

I also occassionally will cut a dovetail interal “tenon” in items that are tall and extend much further from the main stock – The Nova’s and some other chucks jaws give much more stability with expanded holding…

All in all….you will have to find out what works the best for your preference – and this only comes from trying different methods and getting the feel for your lathe. It also is dependent on the type of turning you are intending to do.

Always consider safety!!....do not spin up fast and be mindful of where you are in relation to the piece and the flow of waste at all times – wood is a heavy projectile..and can cause a whole lot of pain when ejected from a lathe at high rpm’s. ALWAYS use a face shield!

-- Woodworking.....My small slice of heaven!

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