Best dust collector

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Forum topic by MAC_addy posted 05-23-2016 06:01 PM 690 views 0 times favorited 17 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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9 posts in 312 days

05-23-2016 06:01 PM

I know this is probably a frequently asked question: but what is the best dust collector I can buy? Now, first of all, my budget. I’ve been saving up money for quite some time now. Currently I’m using a shopvac and Oneida cyclone. It works okay for small tools (belt sander, random orbital sander etc). My shop is absolutely covered in dust. I’m sick of it. So, that’s why I have been saving my money for quite some time.

Let’s talk about what I need – something not too massive. I am, like many, in a garage. My garage is a 3 car garage. I usually only ever park my wife’s car in there – mine lives outside. I’ve been looking at the Grizzly G0703P and like the looks of it. Though, I think I might pony up and get a 2HP one.

What can anyone recommend to me?

Thanks in advance!

17 replies so far

View pintodeluxe's profile


4824 posts in 2231 days

#1 posted 05-23-2016 06:05 PM

Yep, I’ll be watching the answers too. The 2hp portable cyclones seem to get good reviews. Jet makes them as well. Not many reviews on the 3 hp units yet.

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

View kizerpea's profile


774 posts in 1785 days

#2 posted 05-23-2016 06:08 PM

Harbor freight


View MAC_addy's profile


9 posts in 312 days

#3 posted 05-23-2016 07:01 PM

I was thinking about the Harbor Freight one, but I know that I want a 2-stage. And quite frankly, I don’t want to waste time making something when I can just buy a decent quality dust collector that does everything I want. I get why you’d go with the Harbor Freight DC, but I am tired of skimping out and wasting my time.

View MadMark's profile


965 posts in 871 days

#4 posted 05-23-2016 07:36 PM

No matter what you get put a 0.5 micron filter on it. Planers & TS’s need 4”, keep your runs short & lo, use metal blast gates, white PVC 4” does not fit black 4” vacuum fittings – the walls are different thicknesses. When sanding, wear a mask for what the DC misses.


-- Madmark -

View mummykicks's profile


85 posts in 1220 days

#5 posted 05-23-2016 07:37 PM

I dunno. I’ve got a dust deputy connected to a rigid vac (the 18 gal I believe, was a bit over $100 at hd as I recall) and have been using that the better part of 3 years to great effect.
The DD is fixed to my miter saw bench and I ran 2” pvc along the wall or over head to each of my tools (bandsaw, tablesaw, router table etc.) and I have like 5 hoses hanging next to the DD that I just connect the one I need.
I enclosed the bottom of my bandsaw which really helped, and I built an enclosure around the miter saw which works OK but not fantastic.
The KEEN undermount attachment for the router table made a huge difference.
I’m in half of a 2 car garage and I really don’t know where I’d put a large DC, nor that it would make much difference other than at the miter saw, where I think it the high flow rate would keep the dust from escaping.

View Wildwood's profile


1848 posts in 1552 days

#6 posted 05-23-2016 07:39 PM

Only us DC for dry wood while turning or sanding. Have the Harbor Freight 2 HP DC with wyne canister. Back when got my set up best bang for the money. That might not be true today.

-- Bill

View Wildwood's profile


1848 posts in 1552 days

#7 posted 05-23-2016 08:45 PM

Forgot to mention using my DC for bandsaw definitely necessary!

-- Bill

View Sawdust35's profile


17 posts in 280 days

#8 posted 05-24-2016 12:51 AM

I have had the Oneida Air Systems V3000 (3hp) for 4 years. I have all my equipment connect to it via ductwork. The CFM is amazing and I have yet to overwhelm it with my planer. I can also have two blast gates open without a serious loss of CFM. Before I bought I toured the Oneida factory where everything is built on site (except motor and magnetic starter switch). The employee showed me their test area and they had a grizzly DC present. The welds were terrible (holes and gaps) on the grizzly. My only regret is not buying the Oneida sooner. Also, the Oneida I bought came with a HEPA rated filter. This Oneida is quieter than my ridgid shop vac.

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

3839 posts in 1911 days

#9 posted 05-24-2016 11:16 AM

For my definition of “best” the 2 HP models wouldn’t apply. For a home workshop it is a Clearvue CV1800, and I hope to replace my Oneida SDG with one in the near future.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

View revanson11's profile


91 posts in 1751 days

#10 posted 05-24-2016 12:53 PM

Two thumbs up for Sawdust35’s solution. I have exactly the same setup. I went from a Jet 2hp to an Oneida V3000 3hp system after the motor burned up on the Jet. Amazing the level of airflow that I get now even with 2 blast gates open.

-- Randy, Central MN

View JBrow's profile


741 posts in 338 days

#11 posted 05-24-2016 02:31 PM


Your post sounds more like your requirements are for a dust collection system, rather than simply a dust collector. No doubt the dust collector is an important component, but there are other components, that when working together, will produce observed results. If you have not already done so, learning about dust collection systems, at least enough so that a roadmap to the overall system is laid out before selecting a dust collector could be very helpful. Unfortunately, dust collection is a complex subject and a lot of time can be spent learning about dust collection and the interplay of the various system components. There are several home workshop dust collection books available on Amazon as well as resources on the internet that made the subject understandable for me. Bill Pentz offers a free, authoritative, and informative web site at

I found the inexpensive booklet “Dust Collection Basics, the booklet Recommendations for Home Shop Systems” to be an easy, informative, and quick read. It is published by Woodstock International and available on Grizzly’s web site for $7

Should you undertake dust collection research, you are likely to encounter fan performance curves. This curve aids comparison of one dust collector with another. It took some digging, but I found fan performance curves available on Grizzly, Penn State Industries, Oneida, and Clearvue web sites.

MadMark offers sage advice in recommending a fine dust filter. Not only will it do a better job of protecting your health, but it will trap the finer visible dust that can settle out of the air onto everything at the end of the day, including the wife’s car. Grizzly’s range of .5 – 2 micron allows more dust to recycle in the workshop than other filters. Perhaps, if you select a Grizzly system, the filtration can be upgraded. Additionally, if a central duct work system is in your future then factoring in the cost of duct work into your budget can save you from an ugly surprise. I found this to be a rather large expense.

After I did my dust collection research, I concluded the ClearVue CV-1800 best met my requirements. Since I work in a two car garage, space is a premium. I managed to fit the CV-1800 fit into a 26” x 55” footprint in a corner.

View Kelly's profile


1040 posts in 2362 days

#12 posted 05-24-2016 03:20 PM

I had a I have had the Oneida Air Systems three horse Dust Gorilla cyclone. It was a dust eating beast (8” pipes). However, it isn’t designed to be turned off and on over and over throughout the day. I bit the bullet and downgraded to three separate units, after I retired and kept my shop for hobby woodworking.

The Jet 1-1/2 cartridge unit is a keeper. I plan on moving my Super Dust Deputy to it this year. It draws from the sanders and band saw well, but, due to their limitations and not that of the collector, I often add supplemental collection.

From my use of the Jet, I suspect the Harbor Freight so called two horse collector would make a good replacement for the one horse, under powered Delta dust pump dedicated to my miter, which I bought for my experiment with designing a cyclone yard vac (which worked real well, but could use that extra 1/2 horse).

The Delta really is a dust pump. Compared to my other collectors, it’s bag belongs in the Chinese category of “we can put out garbage and sell it using a big name.” If I replaced the bag with a half micron bag or filter, it’s be a fine collector, providing I bought it used, on the cheap, and dedicated it to a single tool, and let the real collectors do their work elsewhere.

In short, do not buy anything less than 1-1/2 horses. If you can get into 220 volt systems only, all the better (that means three horse). As I, elsewhere, mention, note the recommended cycling of the power switch for the one you buy and consider how many times a day you’ll be turning the unit on and off.

Because of the enclosed sanding station I built, the collector gets turned on even more often. Of course, that means the dust the shop sees is, very notably, reduced.

I have a four bag, three horse Jet. I swapped the stock lower dust pump bags for plastic ones. Next, I swapped out the dust pump, stock upper bags for finer ones. No longer do I find them covered in dust “that probably just landed on them from other sources.”

My three horse runs through a Super Dust Deputy, which I GREATLY appreciate. As I said, the cyclone will move to the little Jet, when I replace it with the Super Dust Deputy XL.

NOTE: Running a Dust Deputy for anything other than supplemental or general vacuum work is the equivalent of a bad joke. Based on my seven or so years of using it, I love my Dust Deputy and wouldn’t be without it. However, it’s worthless on a planer, jointer and so on.


1) After you run the agitator, shake the whole unit. If you don’t, a lot of the dust will land on the plate over the collection bag and be drawn right back onto the filter, the next time you start the unit.

2) Keep the collector as close to your heavy demand items as possible.

3) Do everything you can to cut down on loss in the piping: Avoid bends and when you do have to have them, use long sweeping ones; Use smooth pipe as much as possible; Keep your hose runs as short as possible; Buy good hose; Every blast gate is a loss, so it you go to Y’s, you may compromised draw. I avoided many Y’s by just switching hoses at the cyclone, instead of opening and closing gates, and gained a lot of draw.

4) IF you do get a cartridge, don’t cheap out. Get a half micron AND the agitator. The agitator will relieve you of hours of pain (okay, more emotional than anything else). It makes cleaning the cartridge do-able, without having to take the blasted thing apart [and defeating the purpose of keeping dust out of your shop].

5) If you collector uses the bands that strap around the outside, consider buying a roll of the foam used to seal camper tops to pickups. It will up the seal quality greatly.

6) When choosing a cyclone, longer is better. More time to spin out the fines. Look at some of the units of big name companies [that try to get a piece of all the woodworking markets, rather than just being good at one thing].

View brtech's profile


882 posts in 2340 days

#13 posted 05-24-2016 07:25 PM

Please read the info on Bill Penz’ site JBow linked to. Although he tends to the alarmist end of the spectrum, he has real hard data that you need to understand. If after reading it, you decide you just can’t afford to do everything he says you need to do to stay safe, you will find a lot of us in that boat, but at least we’re doing it with knowledge and not handwaving. You will also understand that you need to use a resipirator. You will find a lot of info here on LJ, but most of it tends towards opinion. Bill has LOTS of opinions on his site, but he backs it up with facts. Know the facts.

The most bang for the buck is the HF “2HP” with a Wynn cannister filter, and a short length of 4” flex duct you move from machine to machine. That’s your best low cost option, by far.

You can go up from there, until you get to the 3-5HP, 15” impeller, 6” duct, HEPA filtered systems that really can move enough air to keep you safe without the respirator.

Between them is a vast land of better, but not good enough solutions. Better is better, every particle of fines you pull out of the air gives you less chance to inhale them, so I’m not knocking them. But they aren’t very cost effective, in my opinion, because they don’t improve airflow enough to justify the cost difference. YMMV.

The one thing I harp a lot on are the separators. With the big guys, you use a full sized, properly designed cyclone that does a good job of separating the big stuff from the airflow without dropping suction/airflow too much.
If you don’t have a 5 HP motor driving a 15” impeller, then every form of separator lowers airflow and thus increases the fines in the air you breath. Separators have ONE function = make it easier to clean up. If the separator doesn’t separate it, then it lodges in the filter, and you have to clean it out of the filter eventually. Separators are a convienence item. They ALL lower airflow. If you have enough CFM to spare, spending some of it on separation is a dandy idea. But if you don’t have enough, then, I think, you should not use any separator, so you don’t take any airflow hit.

But that’s just me, and most LJs love their separators, be it an SDD, a Thein baffle, a wok, or whatever. But, again, in my opinion, they are all bad for you unless you have CFM to spare.

Just so you know, I have the aforementioned HF, with the Wynn Cannister, and a Rockler Dust Right 4” duct that I move between my tools. I use a $10 Woods remote control.

And I’m saving up for the 5 HP “real” DC. And I have, and use, a respirator, but not as much as I should. I also have an air cleaner, which is more to avoid sending dust into the rest of the house than anything else.

View Redoak49's profile


1816 posts in 1406 days

#14 posted 05-24-2016 08:02 PM

The best dust collector varies based upon your shop. But first one should take some notice of Pentz..the goal of dust collecting is to collect the dust/chips and maintain a safe breathable air. Pentz provides some parameters for doing that. Many think that his suggestions are a little too much and you do not require the air flows he suggests.

IMHO you need to do two things. The first is to have adequate airflow available from your system. The second, and often not emphasized enough, is to design and build adequate hoods or pickups to capture the dust.

Another factor is time and money. Do you want to buy a solution or try to build your own. Personally, I want to spend my time making dust not building a collector and I want a system that achieves the Pentz suggested air flows. As I get older, the issues with dust become greater.

View AlaskaGuy's profile


2392 posts in 1727 days

#15 posted 05-24-2016 08:14 PM

For my definition of “best” the 2 HP models wouldn t apply. For a home workshop it is a Clearvue CV1800, and I hope to replace my Oneida SDG with one in the near future.

- Fred Hargis


-- Alaskan's for Global warming!

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