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Stanley No. 6 restoration help

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Forum topic by Marn64 posted 05-22-2016 04:02 PM 433 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Marn64

209 posts in 247 days


05-22-2016 04:02 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question plane

So I have this Type 4 No 6 that has a lot of problems and I have no idea where to go from here. First, it had maybe 35 % japanning left and what was left was loose, so I stripped it and I’m going to Pontypool it. I still have yet to strip the frog, and I have no idea how to go about that. I thought about hammering out the depth adjustment yoke so that I could work the frog without that in the way, but I’ve never done that before and I’m paranoid I’ll shatter the frog. Next there is the tote and knob, the tote is broken at the horn and I don’t have the other piece, so I can’t glue it, and the knob has paint on it. I’m going to refinish the tote and knob but I’m not sure how to do the knob without accidentally sanding off the beading. Then there is the tote screw, there is corrosion on the threads and it gets stuck inside the plane. Finally there is the depth adjuster which is scratched up badly. Can anyone give me advice and/or help, because I think I have the sick shelter cat of hand planes here.



-- Benjamin, Milwaukee


6 replies so far

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bandit571

14556 posts in 2145 days


#1 posted 05-22-2016 08:44 PM

No need to remove the yoke. Unless it is broken, leave it alone. Wire wheel on either a grinder, or in the drill press will clean the frog in the Japanned areas. Face of the frog? Either a large, flat mill file, or a belt sander to flatten the face of the frog. you can hold the yoke down, out of the way, and, since there isn’t a lateral lever, go until it is shiny and flat.

Tote bolt: That wire wheel? hold the bolt with locking pliers, and use the wire wheel to clean the bolt until like new, and shiny…...then wipe down with a bit of 3in1 oil tokeep it that way.

Sometimes, one can just leave those marks on the wood, adds a bit of history to it. IF you do chuck it up in the drill press, be careful you don’t sand too much, and change the shape.

Brass wheel: Get a can of Brasso and just polish it up. Around the rim of the wheel: rub on some fine grit sandpaper, just to remove the dings, then stop. Do NOT do the inside, as those markings will disappear along with any scratches down there.

Several people on here use a spray paintmade for Ford Engines, comes in a semi-gloss, and after a few coats, looks like Japanning. I spray paint mine withRustoleum black, several heavy coats, more to keep the rust from coming back.

Rear handle: nhplaneparts.com ( on Ebay) sells totes. IF you want to make your own, Lee valley has patterns you can download, trace onto a nice piece of wood, and make your own. Again, on the front knob, the less you do to it, the better. It is very hard to sand near the bottom flair, without sanding it right off. One can use it as a pattern, and turn a new one to match IF one has a lathe.

One last tip: BEFORE you go to painting the base or the frog…ANYTHING with threads must either be taped off, covered, or in the case of the base casting….fill the holes for any bolts with oil. Later, when you install those bolts, the oil will help. Be a lot easier than trying to get paint out of those holes.

-- A Planer? I'M the planer, this is what I use

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Marn64

209 posts in 247 days


#2 posted 05-22-2016 09:18 PM



No need to remove the yoke. Unless it is broken, leave it alone. Wire wheel on either a grinder, or in the drill press will clean the frog in the Japanned areas. Face of the frog? Either a large, flat mill file, or a belt sander to flatten the face of the frog. you can hold the yoke down, out of the way, and, since there isn t a lateral lever, go until it is shiny and flat.

Tote bolt: That wire wheel? hold the bolt with locking pliers, and use the wire wheel to clean the bolt until like new, and shiny…...then wipe down with a bit of 3in1 oil tokeep it that way.

Sometimes, one can just leave those marks on the wood, adds a bit of history to it. IF you do chuck it up in the drill press, be careful you don t sand too much, and change the shape.

Brass wheel: Get a can of Brasso and just polish it up. Around the rim of the wheel: rub on some fine grit sandpaper, just to remove the dings, then stop. Do NOT do the inside, as those markings will disappear along with any scratches down there.

Several people on here use a spray paintmade for Ford Engines, comes in a semi-gloss, and after a few coats, looks like Japanning. I spray paint mine withRustoleum black, several heavy coats, more to keep the rust from coming back.

Rear handle: nhplaneparts.com ( on Ebay) sells totes. IF you want to make your own, Lee valley has patterns you can download, trace onto a nice piece of wood, and make your own. Again, on the front knob, the less you do to it, the better. It is very hard to sand near the bottom flair, without sanding it right off. One can use it as a pattern, and turn a new one to match IF one has a lathe.

One last tip: BEFORE you go to painting the base or the frog…ANYTHING with threads must either be taped off, covered, or in the case of the base casting….fill the holes for any bolts with oil. Later, when you install those bolts, the oil will help. Be a lot easier than trying to get paint out of those holes.

- bandit571


thanks! my only concern is getting between the yoke and the depth adjuster bolt. Do you know of any reliable way to get between them? I’ve been using citristrip and even then the japanning has been tough, so my concern with the frog is the nooks and crannies.

-- Benjamin, Milwaukee

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Don W

17960 posts in 2029 days


#3 posted 05-22-2016 09:19 PM

View Don W's profile

Don W

17960 posts in 2029 days


#4 posted 05-22-2016 09:30 PM


thanks! my only concern is getting between the yoke and the depth adjuster bolt. Do you know of any reliable way to get between them? I ve been using citristrip and even then the japanning has been tough, so my concern with the frog is the nooks and crannies.

- Marn64

Sandblaster if you have access to one.

-- Master hand plane hoarder. - http://timetestedtools.net

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Marn64

209 posts in 247 days


#5 posted 05-22-2016 10:23 PM

thanks! my only concern is getting between the yoke and the depth adjuster bolt. Do you know of any reliable way to get between them? I ve been using citristrip and even then the japanning has been tough, so my concern with the frog is the nooks and crannies.

- Marn64

Sandblaster if you have access to one.

- Don W


thats my problem, I don’t, what are some good alternatives?

-- Benjamin, Milwaukee

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Don W

17960 posts in 2029 days


#6 posted 05-23-2016 12:40 AM

Stripper and wire brushs. A dremel tool if you have one. If not, just good hard labor

-- Master hand plane hoarder. - http://timetestedtools.net

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