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Forum topic by RH913 posted 04-08-2010 06:03 PM 1993 views 0 times favorited 15 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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52 posts in 3158 days

04-08-2010 06:03 PM

Hi all.
The saga of my PM 2000 continues.
Today I extended the existing wire and added the plug.
I was going to run a dedicated line for this saw when I realized the new wire would reach the 220 out let for my compressor.
Not being able to wait any longer to hear it hum to life, I diconnected the comp. and plugged in my new toy.
The light on the switch box turned green.
I hit the start button and all I got was a click, then nada, zilch, zippo, nothing.
I checked all the wiring, all was fine.
Called Tech services, they are stumped, they are sending a tech to check it out.

Said it might be the motor or the mag. switch????

I will post more, when I have more to tell

Disappointed to say the least!!!!!!!


15 replies so far

View NBeener's profile


4816 posts in 3347 days

#1 posted 04-08-2010 06:06 PM

I’m right there with ya.

I’ve bought TWO major stationary tools (band saw, mortiser), and had “Dead on Arrival” conditions. It’s plain old no fun.

Here’s to a speedy, easy fix, and a lifetime of happiness with your new TS.

Since it’s just sitting there, though (sorry, Mate), how about a picture or two ;-)

Good luck !!!

-- -- Neil

View Branum's profile


54 posts in 3341 days

#2 posted 04-08-2010 06:13 PM


I am not an electrician, but I saw in a thread from yesterday that you were going to run 220v/20a through 12-2 wire. If I am correct, you need to go with a much larger gauge for that kind of power especialy if you use romex wire. Just something to look into. Good luck with your new tool (toy)!!

-- Branum

View RH913's profile


52 posts in 3158 days

#3 posted 04-08-2010 06:20 PM

Thanks for allowing me to vent.

12 gauge is rated 20amps.
The saw’s wire is 12 gauge.
From the panel to the outlet I will run a dedicated 30amp 10 gauge line with a 20 amp 220 receptical.

Now that I can’t cut anything I guess I’ll get started on the new line.
As far as pics go, I don’t know how to up load them.
If someone can explain or direct me to instructions I’ll try.


View NBeener's profile


4816 posts in 3347 days

#4 posted 04-08-2010 06:25 PM

You have to upload pictures to a photo website, first—a site like Google Picassa or PhotoBucket or Kodak Gallery or Snapfish or …..

Then, you right click ON the picture … once it’s loaded to a site like that … and select “copy image URL.”

You’ve then got the address for the picture on your ‘clipboard.’

Then you post another blog entry, here.

Where you want the picture to be, you “paste” the address for the picture, and put an exclamation point BEFORE AND AFTER (no spaces) the address OF the picture…..

The picture will appear here … if all goes well.

Step 1, though: sign up for one of those photo sites.

-- -- Neil

View Roper's profile


1389 posts in 3886 days

#5 posted 04-08-2010 07:09 PM

sorry to hear about your troubles. i had the same thing happen to me when i got mt 3520B lathe, lights turned on but no power to the tool. i called an electrician buddy of mine and he said that i had probably switched the positive and neg. in the plug. and he was right. just a thought.

-- Roper - Master of sawdust-

View Abbott's profile


2570 posts in 3477 days

#6 posted 04-08-2010 07:34 PM

I use #8 wire for 220 circuits and it needs to be #8/3 not #8/2. Two hots and a neutral.

-- Ohh mann...pancakes and boobies...I'll bet that's what Heaven is like! ♣ ♣ ♣ ♣

View Bud1m's profile


10 posts in 3149 days

#7 posted 04-08-2010 10:06 PM

Had the same issue with my PM 2000 – had to change to a 30amp breaker (Was running a 20amp) and 10 gauge – even though the cord on the saw is 12… Solved the problem. Make sure you test with a full stack dado set before you let PM off the hook. Mine didn’t do this 100% of the time unless I was using the dado blade set at 3/4”.. Also I bought an expensive $20 plug instead of the $5 one available at most home centers..

View Bud1m's profile


10 posts in 3149 days

#8 posted 04-08-2010 10:18 PM

You can run 8/2, 10/2 or 12/2 for 240v apps – technically there is no neutral in a 240V circuit the third wire is a ground. Three conductive wire configurations are for taping a 120V appliance on to a 240V circuit. For example most likely your 240V clothes dryer is 240v with 3 conductive wires – neutral is bought in so the 120V part of your dryer will work..

Another thing to look at is: are you running a sub panel? if so, make sure your ground and neutral blocks are wired correctly. The PM 200 has a very sensitive switch and any voltage issues will be picked up.

Hope this helps.

View SCOTSMAN's profile


5849 posts in 3758 days

#9 posted 04-08-2010 10:21 PM

All those numbers we have a simpler system with wire gauged in amp ratings.Alistair

-- excuse my typing as I have a form of parkinsons disease

View crank49's profile


4032 posts in 3144 days

#10 posted 04-08-2010 11:09 PM

I’m an engineer and an electrical control specialist. So you might not want to trust me right off, but for what it’s worth:
- Appliances don’t have to follow building electrical codes with internal wiring; the cord is considered internal. They have to obey the laws of physics, however, so they could even use 14 ga wire for a 20 amp circuit if its insulation had high enough temperature rating. Effeciency would not be very good though.
- You have to obey the electrical code for the building location and also comply with state and even local ordinances.
- The voltage has nothing to do with the guage of wire required. Voltage has everything to do with the insulation on the wire.
- The amperage load on the wire determines the guage needed. The amperage load will be increased with distance so a very long run, say 100ft, with a full 20 amp load might very well need 10 guage or even 8 guage wire. In most cases, a 10 guage (30 amp capacity) wire is a good choice for most motored appliances.
- The inrush starting amps for a motor can be several times the running amps. Therefore, the breaker might very well need to be either a special motor circuit breaker, or be oversized, like to 30 amps for a 20 amp load. If you install a 30 amp breaker, you are required by code to run 10 guage wire.
- The code will also require a ground wire so the wire should be 10-3 or 10-2 w/ground, if it’s romex.
Hope this helps, and good luck.

View bunkie's profile


412 posts in 3320 days

#11 posted 04-08-2010 11:16 PM

“I use #8 wire for 220 circuits “

What are you running? Elevators? Industrial robots? Banks of clothes dryers? ;—}

-- Altruism is, ultimately, self-serving

View Michael Murphy's profile

Michael Murphy

453 posts in 3178 days

#12 posted 04-08-2010 11:40 PM

If it’s a magnetic switch, and you hear a click when pressing the on button, and then press the off button do you hear the magnet releasing?

Mag switches use power from the circuit to energize the magnetic coils that holds the switch on. If the power goes out or the circuit trips, the switch automatically turns off by releasing the magnet.

You should be able to open up the mag switch box and manually push the contacts together with something insulating like a piece of wood, or dowel and see if the motor starts up. If it does then the magnetic solenoid is not working. Could be a bad wire or connection in the solenoid circuit.

-- Michael Murphy, Woodland, CA.

View RH913's profile


52 posts in 3158 days

#13 posted 04-08-2010 11:49 PM

Thanks for all the help and advice.
The PM tech and I went through all the wiring tests with a digital voltmeter. all checked out ok up to the switch.
He did say with a 20 amp 220 breaker instead of 30 amp and the associated proper wire size the breaker might trip on occasion, so he said to use the 30amp, which I intended to do when I rewire shortly.

Bud1m- are you talking about the breaker tripping while under a load, if so that’s not my issue.


View TomHintz's profile


207 posts in 3571 days

#14 posted 04-09-2010 08:36 AM

I have seen machines just click a few times now when the power supply was marginal. In all three cases, they either rewired for a better supply or one actualy moved the machine closer to where the power came into the building (less wire/voltage drop) and the machines worked fine.
When I bought my house I had a big problem with flourescent lights not anting to start and work. I eventually had an electrician in and he pulled a bigger capacity wire and replaced the breaker with the next step up and everything worked fine. He said I was just trying to pull 5.5 lbs of stuff through a 5 lb wire. Just enough of a deficiency that nothing worked right. After the new wire it was like all new lights.

-- Tom Hintz,

View Bud1m's profile


10 posts in 3149 days

#15 posted 04-09-2010 01:19 PM

No – the breaker would never trip but the switch would go into a safety lockout (so I was told) – you have to hold the start and stop buttons down at the same time to reset. I was told this was an under voltage issue. It happened at startup, the saw would start very slow and then shut down after a second or two.

Better plug, 30 amp Breaker and 10 gauge wire solved the problem.

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