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Fastener Physics

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Forum topic by tncraftsman posted 1605 days ago 808 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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tncraftsman

64 posts in 1774 days


1605 days ago

Topic tags/keywords: hardwarefastenersscrewsjoinery question joining

Does anyone have a link or information about how much load a wood screw can hold? My staple is functional furniture. I mostly use screws and bolts and design my projects and might “overbuild” my furniture. I use a lot of #12 wood screws in my projects and I am wondering if I could scale back while still having a sturdy piece of furniture.

I’m also looking for a fastener with a clean countersink. I’ve used Spax on occasion and am pleased with the result but the countersink isn’t as clean as a predrill would be.

I haven’t any solid information about the physics of my fasteners and wondered if anyone has looked into this before.


6 replies so far

View NBeener's profile

NBeener

4806 posts in 1809 days


#1 posted 1605 days ago

I don’t know dung from Shinola, but … wouldn’t there be a HUGE “it depends” based on … about a million variables … like species of wood, the KIND of force acting upon it, how far into the joint the threads go, the thread pitch, metallurgy of the fastener, etc., etc., etc.??

My gut tells me it would.

My gut also tells me that … depending on those variables … a fastener might fail before the wood/joint, or the other way around.

Hmmmm.

Somebody out there who DID stay awake in those classes ??? ;-)

-- -- Neil

View Fireguy's profile

Fireguy

132 posts in 1870 days


#2 posted 1605 days ago

More than the wood.

-- Alex

View Frankie Talarico Jr.'s profile

Frankie Talarico Jr.

353 posts in 1991 days


#3 posted 1603 days ago

I can say proffesionally that if you down sized to a #8 screw you’d be doing your self a favor.
example:
A 3/4” piece of ply hold perfectly well with a #8 screw, as the hole for the screw is only about 3/16” When you put a #12 screw you actually lose integrity in the ply as the space needed for that size pushes closer 3/8” So you really only have a minimal amount of wood remaining. I have always used #8 and never had a problem with strength. I know shops that use exclusivly #6 screws, which are closer to 1/8”.

As far as the screw heads having a countersink in them, I agree it’s never as perfect as predrilling, but on un finished sides its really great, and the other advantage is it prevents the screw from backing out.

I use and sell Zip-R screws produced for Hafele, As I am an authorized dealer for them. Here are a coouple links that might help.

This link shows the screws up close and personal.
#8 screws Zip-R one of our best sellers

this link teaches about the anatomy of a screw.
Screw Anatomy

If you ever have any questions or need assitance chosing the right fasteners for the job, give me a shout, call, email, or LJ’s

I have 13 years experience in the field and 15 in the shop at home, doing all sorts of cabinetry,millwork, and the sorts.

www.getneds.com our store front. All Lumberjocks recieve 10% off anytime. Use promo code: “LJUser” without the quotes.

-- Live by what you believe, not what they want you to believe.

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tncraftsman

64 posts in 1774 days


#4 posted 1603 days ago

Ned

This is EXACTLY the information that I was looking for. Your points make sense and explains why I’m not seeing #12 listed in the woodworking catalog’s. I’ll certainly place a sample order and see how they work out for me.

View Frankie Talarico Jr.'s profile

Frankie Talarico Jr.

353 posts in 1991 days


#5 posted 1603 days ago

no Problem…it’s easy to talk about what you know…....
I never tell a plumber what to do, but I’ll tell you what. they don’t chew their fingernails…lol

-- Live by what you believe, not what they want you to believe.

View NBeener's profile

NBeener

4806 posts in 1809 days


#6 posted 1603 days ago

Ned:

Your link has .comis in it, instead of .com

Or—in fastener terms—it’s screwed ;-)

-- -- Neil

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