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Replacement Arbor Wrench for Jet JWTS-10CW

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Forum topic by benchandler posted 05-18-2016 03:59 AM 694 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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benchandler

3 posts in 204 days


05-18-2016 03:59 AM

Topic tags/keywords: tablesaw jet jwts-10cw arbor wrench newb

Hello good people. I’m new to the forum (short time lurker) and hobby (obsession?) but needed a little help.

I picked up a used Jet JWTS-10CW from CL and am in the process of cleaning, setting up, adjusting, upgrading etc.

Unfortunately it did not come with the arbor wrench and I am having trouble finding a replacement.

My research leads me to believe that I need Jet Part # 200252, but it is discontinued.

Sears Parts Direct says that Jet Part # JTAS10-170 is a suitable replacement but I don’t know if I can trust that.

Is there anyone here who has a saw from the same period/family that can get the dimensions of their arbor wrench so I know what to look for?

Amazon has Thin Wrench sets (Made by “Grip”, they look like cheap garbage) but I don’t really want to spend $40 + S&H on both the SAE and Metric sets when I only need one wrench, and the handles look a little short for the purpose.

Many thanks in advance.

-- When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro. - HST


10 replies so far

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

4230 posts in 1664 days


#1 posted 05-18-2016 04:05 AM

I believe the original wrench had a 23mm on one end and a 27mm on the other. Any normal box end wrench should work to remove/install the arbor nut though – no need to get an OEM stamped piece of metal. You only need the one that fits on the arbor nut.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

View runswithscissors's profile

runswithscissors

2189 posts in 1490 days


#2 posted 05-18-2016 05:01 AM

Go to your local thrift store or pawn shop. Buy a wrench that will fit (probably $.50 to $1.00). Grind it thin enough to fit where you need to insert it. Easy peasy.

-- I admit to being an adrenaline junky; fortunately, I'm very easily frightened

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

3944 posts in 1958 days


#3 posted 05-18-2016 10:42 AM

This may be a quicker/cheaper/easier approach. Park bicycle wrenches (metric sizes only) are not only very thin, they are very high quality and easily obtained. A good bike shop will have them, or go the ‘zon. If the above info about 23mm and 27Mm is correct should be a piece of cake to get usable wrenches quick. As a side comment, how in the hell does so many arbor wrenches get lost?

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

View JoeinGa's profile

JoeinGa

7482 posts in 1472 days


#4 posted 05-18-2016 11:22 AM

How “handy” are you? I made my own. No welding necessary, just a hunk of steel, a 4.5” grinder and a few files. Paint if you like. Spent about a day on it.,,, see it here.

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http://lumberjocks.com/topics/150730
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-- Perform A Random Act Of Kindness Today ... Pay It Forward

View benchandler's profile

benchandler

3 posts in 204 days


#5 posted 05-18-2016 03:37 PM

You guys are awesome.

I currently do not have a grinder, but am always looking for an excuse to get new tools. I’d be more inclined to grind down an existing 23mm & 27mm than to build my own, but that’s just on account of needing to pare down the list of projects as opposed to adding to it. I’ll also keep my eyes out for used cone wrenches.

-- When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro. - HST

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

4230 posts in 1664 days


#6 posted 05-18-2016 06:15 PM

There shouldn’t be any need to grind one down… unless you are looking for something that fits the arbor (not the arbor nut), which isn’t really needed. Any wrench (even an adjustable) should work just fine as long as you hold the blade in position with a piece of scrap wood, negating the need to hold the arbor in position.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

View benchandler's profile

benchandler

3 posts in 204 days


#7 posted 05-18-2016 08:09 PM

I’m happy using a standard box wrench on the nut but would prefer to have a saw specific slim wrench to hold the arbor itself in lieu of using the scrap wood method when changing it out. Thanks again to all of you. I’ll be sure to post pics once it’s all set up.

-- When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro. - HST

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

7216 posts in 2840 days


#8 posted 05-18-2016 08:51 PM

I’d be surprised if a wrench from several other similar saws doesn’t fit….Grizzly, GI, PM, Shop Fox, Bridgewood, King, to name a few.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View dogmir's profile

dogmir

25 posts in 1437 days


#9 posted 05-19-2016 01:37 PM

I was missing mine but found a generic one that fit at my local restore for $1. I found one for you $8.40.

Wrench Link

View MrRon's profile

MrRon

3926 posts in 2708 days


#10 posted 05-19-2016 04:51 PM

Don’t forget, the nut does not have to be torque-tight. Over-tightening the nut can distort the blade. Usually finger tight and then an 1/8 to 1/4 turn more is all that is needed.

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