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Forum topic by steve3604 posted 04-06-2010 05:08 PM 1084 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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27 posts in 3164 days

04-06-2010 05:08 PM

Topic tags/keywords: joining tip oak

Working on a project with multiple mortise and tennon joinery, was looking for opinions on preferred method of cutting tennons. I have a tennon jig, but I saw a method using Dado Blade on Woodsmith Shop Show and it looked pretty easy, so any opinons would be appreciated, mortises will be cut with pluge router 3/8 mortises.

Steve in Indiana

10 replies so far

View MedicKen's profile


1610 posts in 2886 days

#1 posted 04-06-2010 05:14 PM

I use a dado stack and table saw because I dont have a tenoning jig. Its fast easy and accurate

-- My job is to give my kids things to discuss with their

View richgreer's profile


4541 posts in 2498 days

#2 posted 04-06-2010 05:16 PM

I have a tenon jig also and I use it whenever the piece is not too long. I prefer it. It gives me a nice clean cut and I think I am better able to precisely set it to the right thickness.

If I am putting a tenon on the end of a long board (more than 4’) I use a dado (and I make sure I have a second set of hands available to help keep everything square).

-- Rich, Cedar Rapids, IA - I'm a woodworker. I don't create beauty, I reveal it.

View jm82435's profile


1284 posts in 3166 days

#3 posted 04-06-2010 05:56 PM

I have a ts tenon jig and a dedicated RAS with a 3/4” carbide cutter just for dados, half laps and tenons. I would agree with Rich, but my threshold is shorter for when to move to the RAS anything longer than about 2’ goes to the RAS.

-- A thing of beauty is a joy forever...

View Safetyboy's profile


119 posts in 3182 days

#4 posted 04-06-2010 07:20 PM

I vote for the dado stack with the tablesaw. Cut them close with the tablesaw, clean them up a little with a rasp or a shoulder plane, and you’re done. That’s how I do it.

-- -- Kevin in Mentor, Ohio

View SnowyRiver's profile


51452 posts in 2904 days

#5 posted 04-06-2010 08:53 PM

I use a tenon jig.

-- Wayne - Plymouth MN

View steve3604's profile


27 posts in 3164 days

#6 posted 04-07-2010 02:00 AM

thanks for all the great responses


View teenagewoodworker's profile


2727 posts in 3192 days

#7 posted 04-07-2010 02:15 AM

dado. I find it easier to keep the tenon cheeks parallel. of course your stock needs to be parallel. The only problem I have with the tenoning jigs is that your table saw blade needs to be perfectly square. I just don’t feel safe if I don’t check after every cut or two especially with my old saw..

View Kent Shepherd's profile

Kent Shepherd

2715 posts in 2710 days

#8 posted 04-07-2010 03:40 PM

Either way works fine. I think it comes down to personal preference


View northwoodsman's profile


242 posts in 3170 days

#9 posted 04-07-2010 04:26 PM

I like to use the router table with the piece laying flat on the table, as opposed to standing up vertically. I use a digital caliper to measure the tickness of the wood. Again use the digital caliper to measure the exact thickness of the mortise. Subtract that measurement from the thickness of the wood and divide by two, giving you the height that the router bit needs to protrude from the table. With a router lift it’s easy to sneak up on the correct setting. I set the fence away from the bit for the correct depth. I use a miter gauge to keep it squared up.

-- NorthWoodsMan

View NathanAllen's profile


376 posts in 2568 days

#10 posted 04-07-2010 05:18 PM

Band saw using fence and a cross cutting sled in alternating order.

Fine tuning the length and width is very easy.

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