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Forum topic by steve3604 posted 04-06-2010 05:08 PM 1091 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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steve3604

27 posts in 3202 days


04-06-2010 05:08 PM

Topic tags/keywords: joining tip oak

Working on a project with multiple mortise and tennon joinery, was looking for opinions on preferred method of cutting tennons. I have a tennon jig, but I saw a method using Dado Blade on Woodsmith Shop Show and it looked pretty easy, so any opinons would be appreciated, mortises will be cut with pluge router 3/8 mortises.

thanks
Steve in Indiana


10 replies so far

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MedicKen

1610 posts in 2924 days


#1 posted 04-06-2010 05:14 PM

I use a dado stack and table saw because I dont have a tenoning jig. Its fast easy and accurate

-- My job is to give my kids things to discuss with their therapist....medic20447@gmail.com

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richgreer

4541 posts in 2536 days


#2 posted 04-06-2010 05:16 PM

I have a tenon jig also and I use it whenever the piece is not too long. I prefer it. It gives me a nice clean cut and I think I am better able to precisely set it to the right thickness.

If I am putting a tenon on the end of a long board (more than 4’) I use a dado (and I make sure I have a second set of hands available to help keep everything square).

-- Rich, Cedar Rapids, IA - I'm a woodworker. I don't create beauty, I reveal it.

View jm82435's profile

jm82435

1284 posts in 3204 days


#3 posted 04-06-2010 05:56 PM

I have a ts tenon jig and a dedicated RAS with a 3/4” carbide cutter just for dados, half laps and tenons. I would agree with Rich, but my threshold is shorter for when to move to the RAS anything longer than about 2’ goes to the RAS.

-- A thing of beauty is a joy forever...

View Safetyboy's profile

Safetyboy

119 posts in 3221 days


#4 posted 04-06-2010 07:20 PM

I vote for the dado stack with the tablesaw. Cut them close with the tablesaw, clean them up a little with a rasp or a shoulder plane, and you’re done. That’s how I do it.

-- -- Kevin in Mentor, Ohio

View SnowyRiver's profile

SnowyRiver

51452 posts in 2942 days


#5 posted 04-06-2010 08:53 PM

I use a tenon jig.

-- Wayne - Plymouth MN

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steve3604

27 posts in 3202 days


#6 posted 04-07-2010 02:00 AM

thanks for all the great responses

steve

View teenagewoodworker's profile

teenagewoodworker

2727 posts in 3230 days


#7 posted 04-07-2010 02:15 AM

dado. I find it easier to keep the tenon cheeks parallel. of course your stock needs to be parallel. The only problem I have with the tenoning jigs is that your table saw blade needs to be perfectly square. I just don’t feel safe if I don’t check after every cut or two especially with my old saw..

View Kent Shepherd's profile

Kent Shepherd

2716 posts in 2748 days


#8 posted 04-07-2010 03:40 PM

Either way works fine. I think it comes down to personal preference

-- http://shepherdtoolandsupply.com/

View northwoodsman's profile

northwoodsman

242 posts in 3208 days


#9 posted 04-07-2010 04:26 PM

I like to use the router table with the piece laying flat on the table, as opposed to standing up vertically. I use a digital caliper to measure the tickness of the wood. Again use the digital caliper to measure the exact thickness of the mortise. Subtract that measurement from the thickness of the wood and divide by two, giving you the height that the router bit needs to protrude from the table. With a router lift it’s easy to sneak up on the correct setting. I set the fence away from the bit for the correct depth. I use a miter gauge to keep it squared up.

-- NorthWoodsMan

View NathanAllen's profile

NathanAllen

376 posts in 2606 days


#10 posted 04-07-2010 05:18 PM

Band saw using fence and a cross cutting sled in alternating order.

Fine tuning the length and width is very easy.

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