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Forum topic by Autorotate posted 05-17-2016 04:35 PM 445 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Autorotate

36 posts in 380 days


05-17-2016 04:35 PM

Topic tags/keywords: table repair joint

Hello,

I had a slight blowout when making my table. I had two spots that had a little shake damage (think that’s what it’s called) on the top 1/2” of two boards. I thought I could add a little glue and then the finish would hold it together. But I just couldn’t keep my hands off it.

So my question is, can I just use a track saw and cut out the joints and replace the board? I have a matching board that should fit fine. Thanks!


6 replies so far

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TheFridge

5764 posts in 946 days


#1 posted 05-17-2016 04:49 PM

You could rout it out and inlay the extra piece you have. Me, I wouldnt cut all the way through.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

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Autorotate

36 posts in 380 days


#2 posted 05-17-2016 05:02 PM



You could rout it out and inlay the extra piece you have. Me, I wouldnt cut all the way through.

- TheFridge

Thank you. I did think about doing it that way and why I originally made the square. However, I do not want any “patches” for the overall look. I’d rather just suck it up and do the entire board if that’s feasible. What a mistake I made here playing with it.

View MadMark's profile

MadMark

976 posts in 913 days


#3 posted 05-17-2016 05:11 PM

Durhams Rock Hard Water Putty. Who cares if it’s patched? It’s only #2 Common pine 2×4 – under $3 at the local borg box. How much of your time is worth $3?

M

-- Madmark - Madmark2150@yahoo.com Wiretreefarm.com

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Autorotate

36 posts in 380 days


#4 posted 05-17-2016 05:13 PM

If it were that easy…haha. It’s reclaimed wormy chestnut. Now I hate the table that you said its Pine. I’m throwing the whole thing away. Haha!!

View CharlesNeil's profile

CharlesNeil

1610 posts in 3331 days


#5 posted 05-17-2016 06:31 PM

WEll there is an alternative, depending on the finish you plan to use. You can sand it smooth, meaning sand the area out until its smooth although dipped out, then using a pour on finish (epoxy), pour the divot, then sand it level and when you finish over , it will be gone, works really well , have used this method many times on pieces that had defects and could not be filled successfully.

The epoxy is crystal clear, so it picks up the grain and color from the divot bottom and sides. When you sand it it will of course be dull and lifeless, but the topcoat finish will re-clarify it. Some work , I agree, but sure works nice.

make sure you sand all sharp edges smooth, sharp edges will show, you want it smooth and blending into the surrounding wood, gently blend the edges out a little further, and when you pour it , be sure to over fill slightly and let it flow beyond the initial repair so you can sand perfectly level.

View JBrow's profile (online now)

JBrow

815 posts in 380 days


#6 posted 05-20-2016 02:06 AM

Autorotate,

Yes, you should be able to use the track saw and remove the damaged wood and replace it with your spare board. The problem is getting a good glue line, since I assume the top will be too unwieldly on edge at the jointer. I have never done this but a double cut method (used all the time to get exactly matching wall paper seals) may be worth a try. The double cut method would involve laying the replacement board over the existing to top and making a single track saw cut though both the replacement board and the top at one time. The resulting cut line in the spare replacement board should line up well with the cut in the salvaged part of the top, yielding a tight glue seam.

A major concern is the source of the damage. The damaged areas as well as the board shown above the damaged board in the photo, suggest insect infestation. If insect eggs are lying dormant within the upper board, the eggs could hatch after the project is in the house and the insects could spread everywhere within the home. But since it is wormy chestnut, maybe the bugs are long gone.

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