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Forum topic by TMcG posted 04-04-2010 03:36 PM 1136 views 0 times favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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TMcG

191 posts in 2460 days


04-04-2010 03:36 PM

Apologies if these questions have been asked and answered elsehwere.

Upgraded my TS to a Ridgid 3650, just a night and day difference !, what a shocker :-)

Anyway, am in the process of constructing a crisscut sled, using John Nixon’s design from his website

John's website

It really is very cool that all you guys are so willing to share, blog, create tutorials etc.., but I digress….

So I have a couple of questions I would appreciate some input on;

The design calls for the back fence to extend, as it were, to the left.

Is that just a personal preference ? Is it because of blade tilt direction ?

Are there any gotcha’s I should consider before switching the fence to extend right ?

Secondly, the back fence is made from laminating 2 7/8” boards together (where does one get those ? but thats a whole different journey, finding a good supplier)

I laminated 2 3/4” pieces of Red Oak to be the back fence and have now realized that the Kreg Top Trak I purchased is actually built for a single 3/4” span.

So what I’m thinking is that I will cut a rabbet to allow the track to be mounted and adjust the handle etc.. to ensure everything clears everything

Any obvious issues with that approach ?

Thanks in advance.

-- http://wood.mcgivern.org


8 replies so far

View SKFrog16's profile

SKFrog16

661 posts in 2660 days


#1 posted 04-04-2010 03:54 PM

TMcG, welcome to LJ’s. There is no question that shouldn’t be asked about woodworking.

You can make the fence so it extends in both directions.

You get 7/8” boards from 4/4 stock that you plane down to 7/8” stock.

Your thinking about the rabbet is absolutely fine.

-- Methods are many,Principles are few.Methods change often,Principles never do.

View ToddTurner's profile

ToddTurner

144 posts in 2783 days


#2 posted 04-04-2010 03:59 PM

Congrats on the saw purchase. I have the same one! Its a great saw, but a bit underpowered. Let me chime in my advice. (thats why you posted right?) Anyhoo-FIRST, before making the sled, check that the blade is parallel to the miter slots. Mine was off about .012” and it made a big difference. Also make sure all 6 of the trunion bolts (3 behind the blade, 3 in front) are tight. If you dont do this, and yes like i said mine were off, your sled will not be accurate.
I saw a million different sleds. All i want from mine is to crosscut accurately and safely. I used 7/8 red oak for the front and back. Mine do not extend and dont need to as my sled is 22×48. I used phenolic because its so slick and moves on the cast iron well. Again, the most important thing is squareness here. Been there done that-twice!
Todd

View bayspt's profile

bayspt

292 posts in 3164 days


#3 posted 04-04-2010 04:10 PM

I built 2 of the sleds you are talking about. One for me, and one for my dad. Left or right extension is just down to personal pref. Right handed guys tend to stand to the left of the blade so our working hand is doing the bulk of the pushing, etc. One recommendation I would have that wasn’t touched on in the vid or plans is to chamfer the bottom front edge of the fence. gives a place for a little saw dust to go. As mine is not chamfered I know it is a real pain to clean out the dust after every cut to ensure I get on the fence right on the next cut.

-- Jimmy, Oklahoma "It's a dog-eat-dog world, and I'm wearing milkbone underwear!"

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TMcG

191 posts in 2460 days


#4 posted 04-04-2010 06:20 PM

Thanks guys, appreciate it.

UnionLabel, thanks, now I just have to find someone around me that sells the appropriate size/quality lumber.

Todd, That seemed to be constant reminder at the Ridgid forum as well but mine was pretty good after I lugged it into the basement and went through the whole setup and calibration exercise, well, at least to my untrained eye for now.

Bayspt, good tip, I’ll do that, thanks.

tony

-- http://wood.mcgivern.org

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ToddTurner

144 posts in 2783 days


#5 posted 04-04-2010 07:19 PM

Cool bud. I cant stress enough that you will not be able to align your machine without the use of a dial indicator. You want to get it to less than .002” just my 2 pennies

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SKFrog16

661 posts in 2660 days


#6 posted 04-04-2010 08:13 PM

Tony, Up by you in the northeast, you should have some good hardwood suppliers. I have no idea where you are located in Conn., but here is the local Hardwood Suppliers federation listing for the state.

http://www.hardwoodfederation.net/main/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=42&Itemid=42

-- Methods are many,Principles are few.Methods change often,Principles never do.

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TMcG

191 posts in 2460 days


#7 posted 04-04-2010 08:42 PM

Todd, I hear you but I don’t have a dial indicator (yet) so I’m relaying on a little clamped, straight edge, run in the miter thingumy I made up. Been thinking about getting one, perhaps nows the time given the effort of making the sled and a tenon jig to go with it.

UnionLabel, neat, thanks. I would be in District 3, Oxford is where I am, by that list. Parkerville seems to be one of the places I read about so their only about an hour away and there’s a Woodcraft in Norwalk which is where I work but they seem expensive compared to the other folk. Woodfinder lists a supplier in Naugatuck but their not on that list and their website is redirected so perhaps they have fallen victim to the economy.

-- http://wood.mcgivern.org

View fredf's profile

fredf

495 posts in 3169 days


#8 posted 04-05-2010 04:43 AM

Connecticut Wood Group here is one in northern ct

-- Fred, Springfield, Ma

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