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Tips For Working With Teak

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Forum topic by scott_v posted 1606 days ago 5988 views 1 time favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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scott_v

13 posts in 1770 days


1606 days ago

Hi all,

I’m building a bathroom vanity table out of teak. Any tips on glue up? I recall hearing somewhere that epoxy glue is best, and that the edges should be well cleaned with acetone to cut the oil content prior to gluing.

I’m also looking for advice on how to finish the teak. I want to avoid varathane or any other plastic coating and am leaning toward a wiping varnish or oil. Any suggestions on product/brands? I’m installing a vessel on the vanity so there will be some water exposure.

Thanks,
Scott


10 replies so far

View Pete_Jud's profile

Pete_Jud

423 posts in 2384 days


#1 posted 1606 days ago

I have a boat with over a metric ton of teak just in the interior. And have done a number of projects with the wood. I have always wiped down the joint surfaces with acetone before a glue up and have used both west systems epoxy and tightbond II with great success. One note, it is hell on your blades and knifes. A lot of sicilica in the wood.

As for finish, on the exterior, 6+ coats of spar varnish, interior, I go with 3 coats of Dalys Seafin teak oil, It is made in Seattle. http://www.dalyspaint.com/PDF/specs/S-TeakOil.pdf I use this stuff on a lot of different woods as well, and buy it in the gallon size can. It is a blend of tung oil and poly, and holds up great, as well as looking great.

-- Life is to short to own an ugly boat.

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wisno

88 posts in 1642 days


#2 posted 1605 days ago

Yes agree with Pete you should use outdoor finishing material for bathtub. The outdoor Polyurethane is work good. But you must avoid solid color especially white opaque color, the oil in teak wood will create problem for opaque finish in teak wood.

wis

-- http://www.wisnofurniturefinishing.com/

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UnionLabel

660 posts in 1832 days


#3 posted 1605 days ago

Also, remember that teak is a very oily wood. Sand every joint to be glued, then wipe with acetone and apply a well mixed two part epoxy. I have not used Gorilla glue on teak yet, so I am not sure of its holding power with this oily wood. Do not use regular wood glue!

-- Methods are many,Principles are few.Methods change often,Principles never do.

View Pete_Jud's profile

Pete_Jud

423 posts in 2384 days


#4 posted 1605 days ago

I have used Gorilla glue as well on exterior teak, when replaceing the plugs in the deck, and else where, but I have found that titebond II will work as well on interior projects if the joints are well made. I find that the foaming of Gorilla glue is ok when you can knock it of with 60 grit, epoxy seems to be a lot harder to get off the surface, but the last project I inside project I used biscuits and Titebond II and it has held well.

-- Life is to short to own an ugly boat.

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scott_v

13 posts in 1770 days


#5 posted 1604 days ago

Pete, could you recommend a good brand of epoxy glue for the teak?

Thanks,
Scott

View Pete_Jud's profile

Pete_Jud

423 posts in 2384 days


#6 posted 1604 days ago

View scott_v's profile

scott_v

13 posts in 1770 days


#7 posted 1604 days ago

I called the technical support department at Tite Bond and they say that Tite Bond III does an excellent job bonding oily wood as long as the edges fit tight. They said that epoxy was not necessary unless you are working with eneven edges where gap filling is required. I’m edge jointing the teak and will have perfectly tight joints therefore I’m now leaning toward Tite Bond III. They said to be safe I should leave the clamps on overnight.

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Pete_Jud

423 posts in 2384 days


#8 posted 1601 days ago

When working with Tite Bond, I always leave them in the clamps at least 8 hours. But the joints have to perfect. No gaps on panels and no but joints. Cope and rail it works good as well.

-- Life is to short to own an ugly boat.

View JuniorJoiner's profile

JuniorJoiner

445 posts in 2071 days


#9 posted 1601 days ago

I have used titebond 3 to glue lignum, so I say it would glue teak, just do the acetone wipe first. the good thing is titebond 3 does not need to be in clamps all that long.

Btw , the wood dictionary says teak can cause swelling of the scrotum, use precautions.
lol

-- Junior -Quality is never an accident-it is the reward for the effort involved.

View Hyperhutch's profile

Hyperhutch

63 posts in 1881 days


#10 posted 1601 days ago

Also, there was a test published in a magazine at some point comparing different gluing techniques. The most effective option was sanding the surfaces to be joined right before the glue-up/assembly. Wiping with solvent, and using different glues were secondary, if I recall correctly.

Hutch

-- I hope the volume of shavings one creates is directly related to the probablility of one's success, cuz if so I've got it made!!

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