How do you clean a Table Saw?

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Forum topic by Dyidawg posted 04-04-2010 02:34 AM 2030 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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51 posts in 3210 days

04-04-2010 02:34 AM

Hi All,

A rather silly question….at least it feels that way.

I bought off of CL a BT3000 table saw for dirt cheap. While the machine is in good operating order, cosmetically it is covered in paint and some surface rust. The paint is the main concern as it covers the aluminum table tops, rails and rip fence. Can anyone give some advise on how best to clean this and hopefully to make the machine look a little better?

Second question refers to how to best lube the blade raising and lowering mechanism. It is rather stiff and while the blade does go up and down, I rather not force it…..


-- Wow, that was easy. Just follow the directions and use some common sense.

6 replies so far

View GregD's profile


788 posts in 3333 days

#1 posted 04-04-2010 03:25 AM

How about the paint stripper for the paint? The common ones use methlyene chloride which I would not expect to harm the aluminum, but I would confirm that before trying it on something important (read the label, ask at the store, google, etc.). There are less common ones that are safe for fiberglass – try a marine supply store. But expect it to strip all the paint; if the rails are painted and then splashed with unwanted paint you might have to strip them bare and repaint them.

Owner’s manuals sometimes provide recommendations for lubrication – maybe you can find a PDF online or someone here has one.

-- Greg D.

View davidpettinger's profile


661 posts in 3397 days

#2 posted 04-04-2010 03:37 AM

The best way to take care of your saw is to clean it from top to bottom. If you have decent mechanical skills, do a little disassembly and take a brass wire brush to the moving parts underneath to clean out old saw dust and rust. Avoid oils and greases underneath also as that will only cause caking. Compressed air will help a lot. Try and use paint removers sparingly, but they will help. Believe it or not, ketchup and vinegar will remove some surface rust.

-- Methods are many,Principles are few.Methods change often,Principles never do.

View Dark_Lightning's profile


3339 posts in 3306 days

#3 posted 04-04-2010 03:38 AM

Methylene chloride won’t touch metal. But I’d recommend a product like 3M’s “Safe Strip”. It is non-corrosive, doesn’t melt your floor, etc. Smells nice, too. I’d recommend a light oil on the mechanism, lots of it a little at a time, to flush out the old gummy oil. Congrats on a good find. I need a find like that. I bought a $100 Ryobi table saw, and I’ll end up spending $400 worth of labor on it it to true it up. The table isn’t even flat (out over .1”), I’ll have to shim it and grind and scrape it into flat.

-- Random Orbital Nailer

View Russ's profile


357 posts in 3274 days

#4 posted 04-04-2010 05:55 AM

Not sure I can help on the paint but I would use this stuff called “The Works” it’s toilet bowl cleaner but works wonders on removing rust. Just put it on and let it soak for 30 min. Then scrap it around then soak again. You’ll find all of not most of the rust is gone. I learned about it form other fellow lumber jock.

-- Russ

View a1Jim's profile


117328 posts in 3774 days

#5 posted 04-04-2010 06:16 AM

For the paint Soak some rags in lacquer thinner an set on the top and cover that with some plastic. let it set for 20 minutes or so and then remove the plastic and check for loosening of the paint. Repeat as necessary.
Just make sure you do this in a well ventilated area away from any and all open flames.

-- wood crafting & woodworking classes

View Luke's profile


545 posts in 3491 days

#6 posted 04-04-2010 06:46 AM

I bought this same saw new about 12 years ago.
If you want to stay happy and accurate go find a better saw. I’m being blunt and telling you the truth but It’s all relative to the work you want to produce. This saw is not meant for making furniture or anything requiring accuracy of any form. You will think that it is doing fine and after many months or years of wondering why none of your projects go together smoothly you would have finally figured it out. It can only be brought into accuracy up to a certain point and then when you think you have it dialed in it will change on you as it is overly adjustable and can’t hold it’s places.
The top is painted on the aluminum and any stripper will remove this as well as the unwanted paint. Any rust would be on the steel stand or the steel casing of the saw. Not the top, fence, sliding table, or rails as they are all aluminum. All suggestions above will work great on a cast iron or similar top but you will probably have mixed results with your saw and most likely they will be undesirable.
The height adjuster has never been easy to move, I’ve done what I can with lubrication and such but it never runs as smooth as a nicer quality saw, which I have since purchased. I always had to grab the adjuster on the round and turn it like a submarine door wheel. Just my experience speaking here so take it with a grain of salt but I went through hell dealing with the problems/ slop that this saw brought.

-- LAS,

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