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Saw Stop mechanical issue

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Forum topic by Betsy posted 05-13-2016 01:59 AM 929 views 0 times favorited 17 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Betsy

3338 posts in 3364 days


05-13-2016 01:59 AM

So, once again, I’m showing my lack of mechanical skill and/or understanding.

Last night I hit a nail with the blade – that tripped the brake into action – just like it’s supposed to.

Tonight I have changed the brake.

Now – when I try to raise the blade all that moves is the the riving knife section and the blade does not move.

You can see from the picture that the wheel is at the top of its range and the blade has not budged.

The next picture shows that I can lift the blade up with my hand and it moves very easily.

So the question is why is the blade not rising with the rest of it? I’ve looked through the manual and I admit that I just don’t see what went wrong or how to fix it.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

-- "Our past judges our present." JFK - 1962; American Heritage Magazine


17 replies so far

View Matt's profile

Matt

95 posts in 419 days


#1 posted 05-13-2016 02:09 AM

i think that I read that the blade needs to be completely lowered after a brake fire to “reset it”.

Sorry to hear you had a misfire.

-- My "projects" always look better with beer goggles.

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Betsy

3338 posts in 3364 days


#2 posted 05-13-2016 02:31 AM

I’ve run the mechanism all the way down and then up and still the blade does not move. I thought maybe a belt may have come off – but I looked at the belts and they have good tension on them – so I’m pretty sure that’s not the issue.

Aggravating – I need to get this fixed – I’ve got orders to fill.

All help appreciated.

-- "Our past judges our present." JFK - 1962; American Heritage Magazine

View copcarcollector's profile

copcarcollector

254 posts in 1585 days


#3 posted 05-13-2016 02:55 AM

Have you lowered the blade all the way to it’s bottom most stop position? Reading the manual online says thats one thing you have to do to reset the mechanism that drops the blade below the table during the safety system activation

OH, guess I should read your post! You say that you did that already!...

Or:

1 866 sawstop

I am sure they can help you quickly if you give them a call tomorrow—

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Betsy

3338 posts in 3364 days


#4 posted 05-13-2016 03:22 AM

Thanks CCC – I believe I have lowered as far as it will go. I thought that did it – because I could then raise the blade. I was home free! NOT

As soon as I turned on the saw – the blade dropped below the table top. (The brake did not engage thankfully).

I’ve sent an email to SS and will probably call tomorrow from work.

Aggravating – wish I had more mechanical sense – unfortunately I did not inherit that gene.

Thanks for your help.

-- "Our past judges our present." JFK - 1962; American Heritage Magazine

View MustacheMike's profile

MustacheMike

179 posts in 1556 days


#5 posted 05-13-2016 10:27 AM

Very common with saw stops. You will have to reset it by hand. Look in the manual parts diagram, to see what the part looks like and then it is hard to see on the saw. You will have to kind of have to feel for it. We have both the contractors and cabinet saws here in the shop that we use on the show ( Stumpynubs.com) and we can unfortunately speak from experience. We have set the saw off at least twice from touching Incra fences!

-- You can trust Mike -" because I will never pull your stash!" See my show weekly at Stumpynubs.com

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MustacheMike

179 posts in 1556 days


#6 posted 05-13-2016 10:29 AM

How big of a nail did you hit’ Usually brad nails won,t set it off.

-- You can trust Mike -" because I will never pull your stash!" See my show weekly at Stumpynubs.com

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MustacheMike

179 posts in 1556 days


#7 posted 05-13-2016 10:33 AM

Sorry. One last thought. If you are still trying to lower the blade to re set it DO NOT over crank it at the bottom. Owners have damaged the front edge of the lead screw and had to replace it and it is a real pain to tear it apart to do so. Just reset it by hand

-- You can trust Mike -" because I will never pull your stash!" See my show weekly at Stumpynubs.com

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

3950 posts in 1961 days


#8 posted 05-13-2016 11:48 AM

Be sure to post back with Sawstop’s input.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

View Betsy's profile

Betsy

3338 posts in 3364 days


#9 posted 05-13-2016 01:19 PM

Mike – I am so glad that this has happened to others. I usually can be counted on the come up with some weird issue that I have a hard time describing and even harder to fix it.

Thanks for the tip.

The nail was at least a 3d. Not sure how it got there as I don’t use reclaimed wood. It was right smack in the middle of the board.

I’ll try your suggestion when I get home tonight.

Fred – I will post SS’s answer to my email/phone call.

thanks again.

-- "Our past judges our present." JFK - 1962; American Heritage Magazine

View CharlesNeil's profile

CharlesNeil

1610 posts in 3338 days


#10 posted 05-13-2016 04:57 PM

With the blade removed and the saw in the blade elevated position, reach down and sharply pull the under carriage up , it should lock back in place, or lower it as stated to relock it,

In teaching classes and doing demos in them I have tripped my saw approx 55 times, i find the quick snatch and jerk the undercarriage method a lot easier.

View Betsy's profile

Betsy

3338 posts in 3364 days


#11 posted 05-13-2016 05:05 PM

Thanks Charles – I’ll give it a go when I get home. Cross your fingers – I have an order to get done and really don’t want to ask for an extension of my deadline.

Will post my results.

-- "Our past judges our present." JFK - 1962; American Heritage Magazine

View WhoMe's profile

WhoMe

1472 posts in 2711 days


#12 posted 05-13-2016 05:28 PM

Glad I read this. I do saw stop demos at work and have never encountered this. Fully lower and raise accordingly always works on both the pcs and ics at work. But, now that I know, I’ll keep this one in the memory banks.

P.s. sorry to hear about the trigger on the nail. One question, was the nail grounding to the table or mitre gauge (something metal)?
From my experience, if the nail was just in the wood and not grounding to anything else, the blade should cut right through it. Done this once with my pcs at home on a large staple that I did not see in the end of the wood.

-- I'm not clumsy.. It's just the floor hates me, the tables and chairs are bullies, the wall gets in the way AAANNNDDD table saws BITE my fingers!!!.. - Mike -

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Betsy

3338 posts in 3364 days


#13 posted 05-13-2016 11:30 PM

Yippee!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I fixed the machine. The advise from you all helped and I also got a good voice mail from SS service. Perfect advise – so now I can make saw dust again.

I only had one issue and that was yanking the arbor upwards. My hand/arm is still not very strong but the SS tech suggested using the blade wrench over the arbor nut to give me more leverage. Worked like a charm.

Thank you all for your help/suggestions.

I’m a happy camper again!!!

-- "Our past judges our present." JFK - 1962; American Heritage Magazine

View DirtyMike's profile

DirtyMike

466 posts in 370 days


#14 posted 05-13-2016 11:42 PM

Does the saw require any adjustment after the brake has fired?

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Betsy

3338 posts in 3364 days


#15 posted 05-14-2016 12:14 AM

Mike – I had to adjust the gap between the new blade and the brake but that’s not too hard. Just have to turn the yellow nut to the left of the arbor. Turn it clockwise to close the gap and counter-clockwise to decrease the gap.

WhoMe – the nail was right smack in the middle of the lumber. I should have taken a picture but was too aggravated to think to do that. I ended up using my chop saw and the bandsaw to finish out my piece so I could drop it off on my way to work yesterday. The piece came out pretty good – works for what he needed but would have rather had it spot on perfect.

I’m glad I got this saga behind me.

-- "Our past judges our present." JFK - 1962; American Heritage Magazine

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