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Forum topic by reefjarod posted 04-01-2010 02:10 AM 1167 views 0 times favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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reefjarod

5 posts in 2445 days


04-01-2010 02:10 AM

picked up an a agazzani 600 two days ago for $900 and had it wired up today. The saw had been sitting for 10 years what should i check and maintnace before i fire it up?


8 replies so far

View Michael Murphy's profile

Michael Murphy

452 posts in 2472 days


#1 posted 04-01-2010 03:09 AM

When it sat for 10 years was it with a blade under tension? Then check the tires. Make sure there aren’t cracks in them or chunks missing. make sure they don’t have flat spots. Spin things by hand first. Maybe run it without blade. Make sure all the guide bearings spin.

Drive belts get flat spots in them too and can cause vibration. Something that size probably has double belts. I would put new matched belts on just because the others are old.

Looks like a nice 18” saw. $900 would be a good price I think.

-- Michael Murphy, Woodland, CA.

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reefjarod

5 posts in 2445 days


#2 posted 04-01-2010 04:08 AM

Things look good spins nice tires look good guides spin but seem alittle tight and so are all the adjustment knobs. What should I use to clean and lube the parts with?I hope it was a good deal I drove through 5 states spent over 12 hours in a car paid a 14 dollar toll and got in trouble with the wife. Oh and I had to explane to her why I needed a 24 ” saw . Any one know how many hp this saw came with it a 1985.

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richgreer

4541 posts in 2541 days


#3 posted 04-01-2010 04:46 AM

Sounds like you’ve got a great bandsaw. Congratulations!

Frankly, I cannot believe that the tires would be in good shape after setting for 10 years whether they were under tension or not. I would recommend replacing the tires as a precautionary measure.

-- Rich, Cedar Rapids, IA - I'm a woodworker. I don't create beauty, I reveal it.

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reefjarod

5 posts in 2445 days


#4 posted 04-01-2010 05:04 AM

That sounds like a good idea Im not realy sure what they should look like. They are smooh and don’t have any chunks missing.

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Michael Murphy

452 posts in 2472 days


#5 posted 04-01-2010 05:41 AM

If it was out of the weather and they look good, maybe put some rubber conditioner on them (Armorall or something else maybe) and give them a shot. My PM band saw has had the same tires on it for 25 years and they still work.

-- Michael Murphy, Woodland, CA.

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reefjarod

5 posts in 2445 days


#6 posted 04-03-2010 03:31 AM

I have the day off sat. I’ll take a closer look, it had been stored well and lightly used. what can i use to lube parts? can anyone tell me what size resaw blades would work best with this saw?

#7 posted 04-03-2010 06:02 AM

For lube: good ol’ WD-40 will be fine, but if you want to get fancy…HA!...light machine oil or some silicone spray will do.

Resaw blade: I’ve heard that the blade width (I assume this is what you want to know, since I can’t help you with length) should be as wide as your tires can accommodate. Also keep in mind that the saw’s tension system should be able to properly handle whatever width of blade you choose. I’ve seen nothing but excellent reviews of the Laguna Resaw King blade, and I may be wrong but if you’ve survived the wrath of your wife over a $900 tool, what’s another $200 for a good blade?...LOL

When my WoodSlicer blade was sharp and had a decent set to it, it cut like a dream…unfortunately my initially poorly tuned bandsaw quicky ruined that very nice blade. I ended up buying a 100’ roll of Nicholson 4tpi x 3/8” hook-tooth blade stock, and had it welded into more blades than I’ll need for years to come. I primarily resaw very precious luthier-sized billets of wood into 1/2” to 1/8” veneers for guitarmaking, and with a moderately slow feed rate, the Nicholson blades leave a very nice finish. The wood only needs light treatment with a cabinet scraper or a pass or two through a drum sander.

My big old (literally OLD) 24” J-Line bandsaw from the 1960’s needed lots of TLC when I got it from the local high school’s woodshop—new wheel bearings, multiple attempts at running a 1hp 3ph motor on 1ph with a static converter, dealing with undersized thermal overloads and a faulty magnetic starter, finally doing a changeover to a 3hp 1ph motor and new switch, new guide blocks, plenty of rust busting, inadequate blade tension (still need a replacement tension spring), and I still haven’t changed the old hard crackly chewed tires yet…whew!!—SO I HOPE YOUR BRAND SPANKIN’ NEW c.1985 SAW RUNS GREAT IN COMPARISON. I’ve got about $500 into the saw so far (all in repair and maintenance, since the saw was given to me for free…hmmm, I wonder why…).

Sorry about all the blab, but I hope it helps. At least you will soon find out the joys of having such a nice monster-bandsaw in your shop!!

-- Lane Custom Guitars and Basses

View John Ormsby's profile

John Ormsby

1283 posts in 3204 days


#8 posted 04-03-2010 06:35 AM

I have not used the Laguna carbide tipped blades.

I use 1” Lenox Tri-Master carbide tipped blades on my 24” for many years. These blades are extremely well made. You can get them through various suppliers. Well worth the investment. They cut a little bit coarser but will last a considerable amount of time. Make sure you keep the blade clean of sap and tar buildup. I just use oven cleaner and a brass brush in the back yard. Hose it off well after cleaning and dry quickly with paper towels.

Also, I do not recommend you max out the blade to wheel width. The blade is determined by the material and type of cutting you are doing. It mainly depends on how tight of a curve you will be doing or if you are mainly re-sawing. I have a few bandsaws because I re-saw and cut curves. The 24” is mainly set for re-sawing and the others ofr curved cuts and smaller piece cutting.

One more thing. If you need new guides, I highly recommend the Laguna ceramic guides. They really increase the performance of the saw. They are also very quiet.

Good luck with your new purchase.

-- Oldworld, Fair Oaks, Ca

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