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Glue Up Survey: Tightbond III (Type III PVA Adhesive)

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Forum topic by Douglas Bordner posted 12-07-2007 09:21 PM 6867 views 1 time favorited 20 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Douglas Bordner

3966 posts in 2730 days


12-07-2007 09:21 PM

Topic tags/keywords: type iii adhesive paduak glueup exotics

I’m gluing up an edge-grain cutting board today which has some Maple, Paduak, Purpleheart, White Oak and Walnut “tiles”. All the surfaces are sanded to 80 grit (Look Ma, no P — as in not P80) with a drum sander.

Do any of you folks see any difficulty in using the Paduak and Tightbond III without a solvent wipedown, and if you advocate it’s use (remembering that the end result will be a cutting board albeit with a diluted salad bowl finish), what solvent would you recommend.

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———————— •WARNING REPEATED DIDACTIC MATERIAL ABOUT SANDPAPER AHEAD• —————————
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There are two standards for abrasive paper. The American system is the CAMI grading standard. CAMI stands for Coated Abrasives Manufacturers’ Institute. The P designation is for the European standard, developed by the Federation of European Producers of Abrasives (FEPA). Above 220 grit there is a wider desparity between the two systems, with the FEPA standard being coarser than CAMI paper. The consistency of acceptable variation in size from the stated grit {the 80+/-} s tighter for FEPA standard than CAMI grit paper.

-- "Bordnerizing" perfectly good lumber for over a decade.


20 replies so far

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Douglas Bordner

3966 posts in 2730 days


#1 posted 12-07-2007 09:31 PM

I wanted to add that I could use Gorilla Glue, but I feel the beating wings of time and I want to ship one of the boards to California before Christmas and I think for production speed I wanted to use the PVA.

-- "Bordnerizing" perfectly good lumber for over a decade.

View Jeff's profile

Jeff

1011 posts in 2760 days


#2 posted 12-07-2007 10:08 PM

Hey Doug. Why not epoxy? After it is cured it’s inert. Also, it won’t give you any sanding issues because it’s not affected by the heat of friction like Titebond (assuming you will do some power sanding).

I guess I should ask if you plan to put to use that beautiful plane Tom made for you first… That and a card scraper would make a FINE finish.

Just curious.

-- Jeff, St. Paul, MN

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Grumpy

19479 posts in 2517 days


#3 posted 12-07-2007 10:21 PM

Sorry Doug, I have not used Tightbond III on end grain. Isn’t it more an outdoors water resistant glue.
I probably would use an epoxy glue. The solvent is usually written on the product (perhaps Acetone but I am not sure). In any case I would ring the manufacturer regarding any food safe issues, but I guess a good wash with soapy water won’t go astray after the glue sets. Regards Tony

-- Grumpy - "Always look on the bright side of life"- Monty Python

View rikkor's profile

rikkor

11295 posts in 2540 days


#4 posted 12-07-2007 10:50 PM

I use Titebond III almost exclusively, but I haven’t made anything that needs to be food-safe.

This comes from the Titebond website:

Titebond III Ultimate Wood Glue is the first one-part, water cleanup wood glue ever offered that is proven waterproof. The waterproof formula passes the ANSI/HPVA Type I water-resistance specification and offers superior bond strength, longer open assembly time and lower application temperature.

Titebond III is non-toxic, solvent free and cleans up with water – safer to use than traditional waterproof wood glues. It provides strong initial tack, sands easily without softening and is FDA approved for indirect food contact (cutting boards). The ultimate in wood glues – ideal for both interior and exterior applications.

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che

123 posts in 2692 days


#5 posted 12-07-2007 10:57 PM

Epoxy doesn’t solve the oily wood problem. You should still wipe down oily woods with alcohol (or acetone see below) before applying the epoxy. I have seen many problems with epoxy and freshly cut teak. I have heard of problems with acetone and epoxy, although I have not experienced any such problem and yes I do use an acetone wipe. I don’t have the literature in front of me but acetone is a good solvent for one part of the epoxy but not the other so they may have rushed the epoxy and applied it before the acetone was completely evaporated. Incidentally alcohol is an excellent solvent for the other half of marine epoxies and nothing is a good solvent once it is mixed.

TBIII should be fine for a hand washed cutting board.

I would use either acetone or alcohol and give it ample time to evaporate, neither one will harm the wood.

If you ever need to speed up epoxy cure times add heat. I use MAS slow for most of my boat projects which takes 2-3 DAYS to fully cure in my basement during the winter ~60F

-- Che.

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Thos. Angle

4435 posts in 2628 days


#6 posted 12-08-2007 12:53 AM

If in doubt, wipe it down!! Ol’ Tom’s rule of thumb.

-- Thos. Angle, Jordan Valley, Oregon

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Lee A. Jesberger

6651 posts in 2645 days


#7 posted 12-08-2007 01:47 AM

I’m with Tom.

It only takes a second to wipe the wood off, either with acetone or alcohol, and will certainly do the trick.

Have fun, Douglas.

Lee

-- by Lee A. Jesberger http://www.prowoodworkingtips.com http://www.ezee-feed.com

View Douglas Bordner's profile

Douglas Bordner

3966 posts in 2730 days


#8 posted 12-08-2007 01:47 AM

Thanks!

-- "Bordnerizing" perfectly good lumber for over a decade.

View Dorje's profile

Dorje

1763 posts in 2663 days


#9 posted 12-08-2007 08:19 PM

So – what did you end up doing? The wipe down I assume?

-- Dorje (pronounced "door-jay"), Seattle, WA

View USCJeff's profile

USCJeff

1044 posts in 2734 days


#10 posted 12-08-2007 08:23 PM

I’ve never had any problems with TB III, indoors or out. Epoxy should also get the job done if you have it on hand.

-- Jeff, South Carolina

View Douglas Bordner's profile

Douglas Bordner

3966 posts in 2730 days


#11 posted 12-08-2007 08:30 PM

Yup, I wiped down the paduak. If anyone has contemplated doing the mosaic end-grain cutting board as a Christmas present, you should have started last month. OMG, this is one time consuming project.
This was last weekend’s labor.

wood test screen

First series of glue-ups done…

-- "Bordnerizing" perfectly good lumber for over a decade.

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Thos. Angle

4435 posts in 2628 days


#12 posted 12-08-2007 11:13 PM

That looks like enough kindling to last you through January.

-- Thos. Angle, Jordan Valley, Oregon

View Dick, & Barb Cain's profile

Dick, & Barb Cain

8693 posts in 2965 days


#13 posted 12-08-2007 11:48 PM

I won’t say anything about the glue you’ll be using. I just wanted to say that it’s going to be real pretty.

Mineral oil is also a good finish for cutting boards.

-- -** You are never to old to set another goal or to dream a new dream ****************** Dick, & Barb Cain, Hibbing, MN. http://www.woodcarvingillustrated.com/gallery/member.php?uid=3627&protype=1

View Bill's profile

Bill

2579 posts in 2827 days


#14 posted 12-09-2007 12:25 AM

As Obi would say..lots of little sticks..

I use Titebond 3 almost exclusively as well. It works great, but with all oily woods you will need to wipe them down before gluing.

Looking forward to seeing your projects Doug.

-- Bill, Turlock California, http://www.brookswoodworks.com

View Hawgnutz's profile

Hawgnutz

526 posts in 2742 days


#15 posted 12-09-2007 04:07 PM

Doug, looks like one beautiful project a brewing. I will look forward to reading your posting when you get the project completed. It will probably be too pretty for someone to cut food on…LOL Really, I hope the intended recipients will enjoy it!

God Bless,
Hawg

-- Saving barnwood from the scrapyards

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