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Dowel splitting jigs

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Forum topic by RickRogers7 posted 03-28-2010 04:13 PM 5365 views 1 time favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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RickRogers7

39 posts in 2503 days


03-28-2010 04:13 PM

Topic tags/keywords: jig

Hi Lumberjocks. Was wondering if there were any jigs out there for either flattening half of a quarter inch dowel or splitting one lengthwise. Thanks, Rick


8 replies so far

View Michael Murphy's profile

Michael Murphy

452 posts in 2471 days


#1 posted 03-29-2010 05:28 PM

Put a .125 radius roundover bit in your routertable. Set the height and use the fence to round both edges of a 1/4” thick board (make the board wide enough to hold on to or glue it to something else). Rip it off at 1/8 wide on the table saw after sanding it the rounded over part. Used to make lots of tambour slats like that but they were usually larger radius. Start with wide boards and cut off 3/8 for each slat, end up with a bunch of slats.

Just be careful. That little piece could be like an arrow if you aren’t careful on the saw.

-- Michael Murphy, Woodland, CA.

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patron

13538 posts in 2807 days


#2 posted 03-29-2010 05:44 PM

drill hole in board ,
the size of your dowel .

cut partially through where you want the dowel split .


.
insert pin the size of the saw kerf ,
behind the blade .

.
push dowel through hole lining up with nail ,
it will keep the dowel from twisting in the cut .

.
here is your split dowel !

-- david - only thru kindness can this world be whole . If we don't succeed we run the risk of failure. Dan Quayle

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Dano46

80 posts in 2635 days


#3 posted 03-29-2010 05:57 PM

David, you are a genius!

-- You can't trust a dog to guard your food.

View Michael Murphy's profile

Michael Murphy

452 posts in 2471 days


#4 posted 03-29-2010 06:12 PM

You lose a lot of the 1/4” dowel to saw kerf.

-- Michael Murphy, Woodland, CA.

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patron

13538 posts in 2807 days


#5 posted 03-29-2010 06:29 PM

michael ,
you could do the same thing with a thin kerf , jap saw by hand ,
you wouldn’t need the pin ,
as the body of the saw would keep it straight .
or just offset the cut and use two dowels .
depends on how much he needs .

-- david - only thru kindness can this world be whole . If we don't succeed we run the risk of failure. Dan Quayle

View Don Newton's profile

Don Newton

714 posts in 3084 days


#6 posted 03-29-2010 06:32 PM

David….that is one of the slickets things I have ever seen!

-- Don, Pittsburgh

View RickRogers7's profile

RickRogers7

39 posts in 2503 days


#7 posted 03-29-2010 06:43 PM

Thanks! I used the drilled hole bandsaw approach. My VW Beetle now has walnut turn signals. I appreciate all your input.

Rick

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Rick

8287 posts in 2498 days


#8 posted 03-31-2010 10:03 AM

David: Absolute Genius!! That one’s going in the “Shop Jigs” File of “My Documents” for sure! Thank you kind Sir!

Rick: Thanks for posting that. Think up a few more for David to solve so I can Dowload them ..LOL….

Rick (The Other One)

P.S. Here’s a FREE one I saw the other day. RE: Face or Exposed Nailing. Glue it. Nail it. Countersink the Nail. Fill the nail hole. Sand it all down. DAMN! That Filler still shows and clogs up the Grain, especially after the stain or finish goes on!!!
SOLUTION: Just before driving the nail ….put a strip of Masking tape along the line where you are going to nail. Drive Nail. Countersink. Fill Hole. Let it Dry for a few minutes. Sand if Necessary. Remove Masking Tape. WALLA!! Clean as a Whistle!!

-- Hope Everyone Is Doing Well! .... Best Regards: Rick

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