Glue laminate flooring to plywood

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Forum topic by curliejones posted 04-30-2016 12:55 PM 496 views 0 times favorited 3 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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145 posts in 1683 days

04-30-2016 12:55 PM

I am building an outfeed onto the rear of my contractor’s saw and have no plastic laminate available. I do not want to buy the minimum 4×8 available locally since my outfeed will only be 18” (cover the motor) by about 44” across the back of the saw. While searching cabinet shops and big boxes yesterday, I came across some 4 ft square sheets that appear to be hdf covered in a laminate. The employee told me I could have them, so I want to glue a layer of this onto some 1/2” plywood to extend my outfeed. I would like to know what glue LJs might recommend after researching and finding guys gluing laminate on stairs using “liquid nails” and silicone. These 4×4 are said to be “cover sheets” that protect the shipments of laminate flooring from the manu. I believe them to be the sheet material flooring is made from before any ripping into planks and profiling. The surface is pretty slick on both sides (wood grain appearance) and since flooring, should be fairly durable. I have one piece that is 3/8” and another that look like 7/16”. Both appear very flat. I’m supporting the rear table on 1” square steel tubing that runs front to back about 20” apart and fastened through the webbed “wings of my saw. I suppose scoring the back side would help adhesion since it seems to have a slick finish also. Any real experience out there gluing down a finished laminate flooring?

-- Like Guy Clark sez - "Sometimes I use my head, Sometimes I get a bigger hammer"

3 replies so far

View Gentile's profile


240 posts in 1235 days

#1 posted 04-30-2016 02:33 PM

I would use contact cement. The adhesive used for applying Formica type laminates. Use a disposable paint roller to apply contact cement on both surfaces, let dry and stick them together. Use a J-roller to press the pieces together. I would suggest the laminate be cut a bit larger than the plywood. It can then be trimmed with a router.
A problem I see with Liquid Nails, or a silicone is the thickness of them. Those adhesives could telegraph lumps through to a smooth surface you want.
I would try a bit of contact adhesive on the back side first to see if it’ll stick to the back, before I’d score the material. My experiences with contact cement is that it sticks to everything…

-- "I cut it twice and it's still too short"

View curliejones's profile


145 posts in 1683 days

#2 posted 04-30-2016 04:39 PM

Thanks. I agree and believe a fresh can where the glue is less viscous is in order for a good even coating.

-- Like Guy Clark sez - "Sometimes I use my head, Sometimes I get a bigger hammer"

View splatman's profile


539 posts in 815 days

#3 posted 04-30-2016 07:20 PM

You will want to cover the bottom of the plywood also, to even out expansion/contraction. A layer of aluminum foil does that nicely. I would glue that on with spray adhesive. Or skip the plywood altogether and glue 2 layers of your ~7/16” material back-to-back to make a ~7/8” thick tabletop, then fasten that to your steel frame.

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