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Forum topic by AlecLong posted 04-21-2016 11:24 PM 1311 views 0 times favorited 26 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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AlecLong

25 posts in 865 days


04-21-2016 11:24 PM

I humble myself to the woodworking gods. Or at least to you fellas. :)

I’m at my wit’s end. Awhile back, I posted a question from a band saw noob about blades for a used Delta 28-203 14” band saw I bought. Since then, thanks to your excellent and plentiful responses, I’ve tried several different blades with varying degrees of success.

The one thing I cannot seem to get to work, however, is resawing.

I’ve tried several blades, the most recent being a 1/2” 4tpi blade. I did buy some Woodslicers, but I haven’t put one on yet because I can’t seem to get even modest results using the current 1/2” blade I have on there.

I’ve tried tensioning the blade (have the wheel in the back set to 1/2”). I’ve tried making sure the blade is mounted at the dead top of the tire crest. It starts there, but after about an inch or so of resawing the blade begins to run to the inside of the wood (see attached photo), and forces me to push harder. As I do, the blade begins to track to the rear of the tire and the back of the blade begins to dig into the lower guide wheel (rear bearing? Not blocks). I thought maybe my shop-made fence was the issue (the saw didn’t come with one), so I bought one of those fancy Kreg fences. Still no dice.

So. To sum up. Resawing requires too much pushing on my part, never stays straight, digs into the rear lower guide wheel, and basically causes me to Hulk out in my shop.

Any ideas? Is this saw just plain shite, or is there some thingamabob I’m not considering or that needs replacing?(I’ve considered the distinct possibility that I’M shite, which is why I’m here pleading for mercy).


26 replies so far

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

4247 posts in 1666 days


#1 posted 04-21-2016 11:40 PM

Sounds like it’s a couple different issues with improper setup… that saw is perfectly capable of re-sawing. Have you watched the obligatory band saw tune up video?

Band Saw Clinic with Alex Snodgrass

Watch it, follow it, put on your new blade and see how things turn out.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

View AlecLong's profile

AlecLong

25 posts in 865 days


#2 posted 04-21-2016 11:56 PM

Step One: Remove the table.

(Smacks forehead)

View teejk02's profile

teejk02

424 posts in 593 days


#3 posted 04-22-2016 12:17 AM



Sounds like it s a couple different issues with improper setup… that saw is perfectly capable of re-sawing. Have you watched the obligatory band saw tune up video?

Band Saw Clinic with Alex Snodgrass

Watch it, follow it, put on your new blade and see how things turn out.

Cheers,
Brad

- MrUnix

Measured bandwidth here but have to check that out tomorrow morning during my “bonus” slot (2-8 am). Just resawed a stick of 2”thick cherry today and maybe I can learn something. Btw, not happy with my piece of 2” cherry…must have been a lot of internal tension there because the “bow” showed itself pretty quickly. Is clamped to the bench right now. Back to the topic ahead of watching the video…my Delta came with a fence. And also came with a “pivot” rod that attaches to the fence. The fence alone is worthless for resawing (“drift”). That “pivot” rod makes it work pretty good.

View conifur's profile

conifur

955 posts in 619 days


#4 posted 04-22-2016 01:33 AM

I think it is the blade that you used to test your set up b4 using the new one.

-- Knowledge and experience equals Wisdom, Michael Frankowski

View doubleDD's profile

doubleDD

5251 posts in 1511 days


#5 posted 04-22-2016 02:24 AM

I use to get anything but great results for re sawing until I watched his video a couple times. Things have changed quite a bit since then. Try the woodslicer re saw blade once you have it tuned up. Could be just a cheap blade?
For anything over 2’’ I like a 3 tpi blade. Even a 2tpi when cutting higher stock.

-- Dave, Downers Grove, Il. -------- When you run out of ideas, start building your dreams.

View JAAune's profile

JAAune

1646 posts in 1784 days


#6 posted 04-22-2016 03:03 AM

If it takes a lot of effort to push the wood, the blade is most certainly dull. I’ve been buying Morse hi-carbon blades lately. Much cheaper than most blades sold through woodworking outlets and they work well. 3tpi, 1/2”, skip tooth blades are the preferred choice.

-- See my work at http://remmertstudios.com and http://altaredesign.com

View jumbojack's profile

jumbojack

1667 posts in 2092 days


#7 posted 04-22-2016 04:17 AM

Watch the video, watch it again. Mount the Woodslicer. There is a ton of really important stuff in the video. Watch it again.
You will be back here in a week raving about your new favorite tool.
Trying to gauge your success with a crap blade is going to be frustrating.
Further on MY saw the 1/2” blade is tensioned to nearly the 3/4” Mark on the back

-- Made in America, with American made tools....Shopsmith

View newwoodbutcher's profile

newwoodbutcher

552 posts in 2318 days


#8 posted 04-22-2016 04:32 AM

Go slowly, very slowly. Be sure to use a tall fence and keep the guide bearings tight and straight. And use the Woodslicer blade.

-- Ken

View rwe2156's profile

rwe2156

2200 posts in 948 days


#9 posted 04-22-2016 11:45 AM

You have a lot of things to check to get a good resaw.

1. Install the Woodslicer blade. Sounds like yours is dull. Before installing back off all the guides.

2. Set the tracking and increase the tension. Keep in mind most bandsaw indicators are usually under tensioned. I would start at least 3/4”. Tension till there is no more than 1/4” deflection in about 10” of blade height.

3. After you’ve got tracking set DO NOT CHANGE IT. Now set your guides. Take your time and do it carefully.

4. Determine drift angle. Mark a parallel line on a 2’ long piece of wood and carefully cut long the line about 1/2 way. Clamp wood to table and align fence to the parallel side. This keeps the back of the blade in the middle of the cut. Sorry I know lots of people refer to Snodgrass, but I have tried his technique maybe I’m doing something wrong but every bandsaw I’ve owned and have never eliminated drift.

5. You need a fence tall enough for the piece of wood. I think it should be at least 75% of the resaw height.

6. Double check your blade for square to table (both ways!!)

If at some point you’re getting a drifting or bad cut, retension blade and recheck tracking.

Be sure the face against the fence is jointed square to the bottom.

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

View chrisstef's profile

chrisstef

15678 posts in 2474 days


#10 posted 04-22-2016 11:59 AM

I recently had this problem, and like rwe says, check your table. Mine was out about 1/8” and it made a hell of a mess of my resaw. You’ll get the hang of it, don’t hulk smash the saw just yet. (Even though I’m a huge fan of bodyslamming some equipment)

-- rock, chalk, jayhawk

View hairy's profile

hairy

2384 posts in 3000 days


#11 posted 04-22-2016 12:07 PM

Try the biggest blade width you can put on, probably 5/8”.

Start the resaw on a tablesaw. That way you are only cutting the center. Google it, it’s probably on youtube.

-- stay thirsty my friends...

View AlecLong's profile

AlecLong

25 posts in 865 days


#12 posted 04-22-2016 12:31 PM

Thanks for the suggestions, everyone. The blade that’s on there now is relatively new, so I doubt it’s dull. I watched the video and did all sorts of tuneup stuff last night, and it promptly cut…

THE EXACT SAME WAY.

Hulk did not smash. Hulk showed remarkable restraint. Hulk breathed deeply and counted to ten.

I’ll try these additional suggestions this weekend: Change to the Woodslicer blade, double check the table for square, double check the tension and adjust for any deflection beyond 1/8”, triple check fence and adjust again for any blade drift.

If that doesn’t work, I may be forced to sell a neighbor child on the black market and use the money to buy a Laguna.

View DrDirt's profile

DrDirt

4169 posts in 3210 days


#13 posted 04-22-2016 01:11 PM

The cuts making a curve like that have nothing to do with the table.

You already mention the problem…. you set the blade at the crown of the tire, but as soon as you cut an inch of wood, it is no longer there.

The Thrust bearingts (behind the guide blocks should be preventing you from pushing the blade off the center of the tire.
the Video link MrUnix showed is the Gospel of bandsawing.

P.S> ONLY worry about the top wheel and the guide

The bottom wheel is just to give the blade a path back to the top.
All of your blade control is set from the cut angle the top wheel sets… through the guide block. Once the blade exits your board …. it isn’t affecting the cut anymore.

A brand new saw requires the same tune up, right out of the box.

-- 'Political correctness is fascism pretending to be manners' ~George Carlin

View Nubsnstubs's profile

Nubsnstubs

826 posts in 1197 days


#14 posted 04-22-2016 02:29 PM



Thanks for the suggestions, everyone. The blade that s on there now is relatively new, so I doubt it s dull. I watched the video and did all sorts of tuneup stuff last night, and it promptly cut…

THE EXACT SAME WAY.

- AlecLong

Alec, having a blade that is relatively new and doubting it’s dull is a big mistake. What I see with your cuts is what I usually got when cutting 8-9” x 24” long Mesquite with bark. The first cut with a new blade was just about as good as could be expected for wood. Towards the end of the second cut, if it hadn’t started to drift, it would definitely start drifting and binding to the point my saw would stop. I usually managed to pull it out of the kerf, and put on a new blade, finish the cut, take to wood to my table saw and cut it to what I intended, then cleaned up the drift….....

The point to my reply is, if it’s relatively new and has been used, it is dull, whether it should be or not. It might cut great on thin lumber, but thicker stuff will leave you with bad cuts….... Jerry (in Tucson)

-- Jerry (in Tucson)

View AlecLong's profile

AlecLong

25 posts in 865 days


#15 posted 04-22-2016 02:32 PM

“Alec, having a blade that is relatively new and doubting it s dull is a big mistake. What I see with your cuts is what I usually got when cutting 8-9” x 24” long Mesquite with bark. The first cut with a new blade was just about as good as could be expected for wood. Towards the end of the second cut, if it hadn t started to drift, it would definitely start drifting and binding to the point my saw would stop.”

Really?! That quickly? Wow.

OK then. Onto the Woodslicer it is.

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