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Time far a table saw upgrade

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Forum topic by Gerg posted 03-24-2010 05:25 PM 5364 views 0 times favorited 19 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Gerg

22 posts in 1773 days


03-24-2010 05:25 PM

Topic tags/keywords: table saw hybrid delta general international clausing question tablesaw

The ole craftsmen benchtop finally died and I’m itching to find it’s replacement.

I’ve been intrigued by the delta hybrid saws for their mix of features and the price point.
Buying new certainly has it’s appeal but I’m not against a used saw.

I’m a hobbyist with aspirations for making furniture. I’ve been doing this a long time so I’m comfortable making a 1k investment. I’ll have this thing forever.

On my list:
New Delta Hybrid: $800

New General Contractor saw: $800

...and these 2 used beasts. Both would require 220v which I have no experience wiring up. That’s part of my reluctance to getting them.

A Delta tilting arbor: $600
Delta Tilting Arbor saw

And a Clausing Table saw with a biesemeyer fence. $750. The guy at the shop says they are built solid like a unisaw or powermatic 66. It looks like a tank, heavy duty, solid. My concern in an old saw is that I may spend a lot of time getting it to run true and parts may be hard to find
Clausing table saw

What do you all think? I’m leaning toward the delta hybrid because I know I can find parts and accessories everywhere. The clausing looks like a great old saw but fixing it could be trouble. The tilting arbor seems nice but would require a 220 circuit. I’m less interested in the general because of it’s contractor style (thin legs and all).

Give me your $0.02.
Thanks!


19 replies so far

View CharlieM1958's profile

CharlieM1958

15817 posts in 2972 days


#1 posted 03-24-2010 05:46 PM

I see no reason to disagree with the way you are leaning.

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

5610 posts in 2129 days


#2 posted 03-24-2010 06:23 PM

For even money, the Delta hybrid format has some advantages over the GI (or any) contractor saw design. Moving the motor inside the enclosure offers better dust collection, a smaller footprint, shorter drive belt (more efficient power transfer and lower vibration), and no lifting hazard from the motor inadvertently hitting something when tilted.

An industrial 3hp cabinet saw has more substantial underpinnings and obviously more power, but as you’ve noted it does require 220v operation. I ran my 220v line off an old dryer line, but that’s not something I’d suggest doing if you’re at all uncomfortable with it….it’s not hard to do, but has serious ramifications if done incorrectly.

None of the saws mentioned has a riving knife, which is a nice safety feature available on most newer saws….a riving knife essentially does the same task as a traditional splitter but is attached to the arbor carriage and travels with the blade, meaning it raises, lowers, and tilts with the blade, so it’s in the way less often and is more likely to be on the saw where it can do it’s job. The hybrid considerations with a riving knife are the Steel City 35920/35930, Craftsman 22116/21833, General International 50-240GT, and Grizzly G0661. The Steel City, Craftsman 22116, and GI all have cabinet mounted trunnions vs table mounted trunnions which are easier to align. All have one piece cast arbor carriages as opposed to the connecting rods used on the Delta. Food for thought…

Good luck!

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View Swede's profile

Swede

191 posts in 1772 days


#3 posted 03-24-2010 06:36 PM

My father bought a Delta Unisaw after having several other saws and trading up I am considering adding an biesemeyer fence to his tablesaw.

If I was going to buy a new saw it woulld be a Saw Stop. I lost the end of 3 fingers on my left had due to a table saw accident while working on a trim job. It took years to get some of the feeling back, but they are numb on the tips. It also took years to relearn how to type without the control or feeling in my fingers.

Best of luck on what ever saw you decide to buy.

Of the choices you listed.
I would consider a “New Delta Hybrid: $800” Probably not 220V so you would not have to worry about adding a new service for power the other beasts would require. I would recomend adding the extension on the right side for ripping plywood down to size.

-- Swede -- time to make some sawdust

View Woodtherapist's profile

Woodtherapist

3 posts in 1780 days


#4 posted 03-24-2010 07:23 PM

If money were no object, I would also go with a Saw Stop. But with limited funds, the new Porter Cable PCB270TS listing for $600 at Lowes is looking intriguing to me (I also need 120V but I need it to be mobile, which may not be important to you). I just can’t find much about it on-line yet because it is so new, but it sure looked pretty in the store today. However, the Delta Hybrid sounds like it would probably be a better value for you, for only $200 more, if you don’t need it to be mobile. Good luck with your hunt.

View steventyler's profile

steventyler

8 posts in 1739 days


#5 posted 03-24-2010 07:54 PM

I would buy a Saw Stop in a heartbeat but they need a saw in between their contractor’s saw and their professional saw. I’m in the military and will move around every couple of years—I am limited to 110V because can’t afford to change the wiring in a house just for using a couple of years and I typically rent. I look at the contractor’s saw and I can’t stand the concept of the motor hanging out the back of the saw and all of the extra space it takes up. I’d much rather buy some type of hybrid with the motor inside the cabinet, neatly tucked away from being damaged / bumped / etc. I’m looking for a new saw too when I get back from the Middle East and probably end up maybe with a Steel City (If they’re still in business) or a Jet Hybrid—prefer a saw with cabinet mounted trunions.

-- -Steve Kuwait

View rockom's profile

rockom

134 posts in 2624 days


#6 posted 03-24-2010 08:08 PM

Adding a 220v circuit is no big deal if your panel has the space. It’s no more difficult than a 110v add on.
Plug in the breaker and run your wire from the breaker to the tool. Mine runs down the wall in an unfinished basement so I stapled the wire to the ceiling with the rest of them and then used conduit to come down the wall to the outlet. For me the most difficult part was attaching stuff to my unfinished basement walls. After borrowing a hammer drill from a friend, that too was easy.

A 3HP 220v saw is great, you won’t be sorry.

-Rocko

-- -> Malta, IL -<

View steventyler's profile

steventyler

8 posts in 1739 days


#7 posted 03-24-2010 08:15 PM

Unfortunately the house I’m renting right now for example has a completely full electrical panel. Maybe adding something like a sub-panel might make sense but since it’s not my house, I hate to go into all of that to just leave in another 2 years. How much would it cost probably for the parts to add a subpanel? (Not near a big-box store right now—about 7K miles away…)

-- -Steve Kuwait

View Bill White's profile

Bill White

3589 posts in 2714 days


#8 posted 03-25-2010 05:53 PM

Grizzley…...
Can’t go wrong for the money. Look at the Wood magazine reviews.
Bill

-- bill@magraphics.us

View reggiek's profile

reggiek

2240 posts in 2023 days


#9 posted 03-25-2010 06:24 PM

Take a look at the quick 220…it is a very good option if you cannot wire in 220 yet want to use a 220 tool (it is almost a necessity if you want to use tools with better power and more accuracy)...here is a link to the review I made about them Quick 220 review. If you feel really creative…you can make your own (Topamax would be a great resource for this).

-- Woodworking.....My small slice of heaven!

View steventyler's profile

steventyler

8 posts in 1739 days


#10 posted 03-25-2010 07:15 PM

Wow.. I took a look at the quick 220. That’s a nasty hack that I wouldn’t trust to not burn down my house—if it is slightly out of phase you would end up with all types of weird voltages and amp draws. I’d feel much more comfortable putting in a sub-panel and and stringing wire. I’d be very cautious before using something like that full-time.
I’ve been looking at the grizzly—looks really nice and is a possibility. When I get back to the States in Aug, I’ll price what it’ll take to install a subpanel and string up 220 to the garage.

thanks,
-steve

-- -Steve Kuwait

View hasbeen99's profile

hasbeen99

183 posts in 2292 days


#11 posted 03-26-2010 12:04 AM

As a relatively new woodworker who longs for the day my Craftsman benchtop TS wears out, my recommendation would be to keep leaning the way you are—toward the Delta hybrid. It just seems the best fit, for all the reasons you listed.

-- "The only thing that counts is faith, expressing itself in love." --Galatians 5:6

View Gerg's profile

Gerg

22 posts in 1773 days


#12 posted 03-26-2010 10:52 PM

Thanks for all of the advice. 220v is much less of a mystery now.

So I made a decision. The winner is…

The delta hybrid with the 30” biesemeyer fence.
36-717

It was a tough call but it just seems to be the right combo of price, features, and available parts and service.

It should be delivered early next week and I can’t wait to set it up.

View steventyler's profile

steventyler

8 posts in 1739 days


#13 posted 03-27-2010 07:54 AM

That’s awesome. Congrats on your decision. Please keep us informed on how well you like the new saw—I’m kind of leaning that way too.

thanks,
-steve

-- -Steve Kuwait

View Brian's profile

Brian

7 posts in 1734 days


#14 posted 03-29-2010 03:21 PM

New guy here and just wondering where you found that hybrid for $800, I have been looking for the same model.

Thanks,
Brian

View Rasta's profile

Rasta

120 posts in 2195 days


#15 posted 03-29-2010 03:29 PM

I saw a powermatic 2000 on ebay for 1000

-- Roscoe in Iowa

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