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Forum topic by jesinfla posted 04-20-2016 05:11 PM 460 views 0 times favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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jesinfla

274 posts in 598 days


04-20-2016 05:11 PM

Hello all,

I have 2 routers – One 1/4” shank craftsman (I’ve had for awhile an built a table top stand for it but haven’t used it until now), and a new HF 1/2” shank with a table (didn’t realize it was 1/2 when I bought it).

Have both 1/4” and 1/2” bits as well as a 1/2” – 1/4” resize adapter

My question is:

When I insert a bit (let’s use the Roman Ogee as example) in either one, the bit goes all the way in. BUT, when I raise the router through the hole, the bit doesn’t come all the way up through it.

I figured on my home made table I did something wrong, but on my new 1/2” shank table it’s the same thing.

I find I have to raise the bit about 1/4 – 1/2” to get the whole Ogee pattern to cut on the wood.

Is this normal or do I have a defective router/table etc.?

Kinda lost with this router thing :(

Thanks as always in advance

-- They said I could be anything... So I became Sarcastic! They also said making drawers is easy... I think they lied :(


9 replies so far

View Nicky's profile

Nicky

695 posts in 3553 days


#1 posted 04-20-2016 07:35 PM

I have read through your question a few time now, and think I understand.

If your table is homemade, is it possible that it’s not centered to the router? Or the access hole is just too small.

Also, are you installing the bit “as far as it will go” in the routers collet? I install my router bit by inserting until it hits bottom, then lift it up by about a 1/16” to 1/8”, trying to insure it is not bottomed out. One could also install a small “O” ring that rests on the bottom of the collet to insure you have some space.

Nother also…Do not over tighten the bit

Does any of this help? I’m happy to pull some youtube links for basic router operation.

-- Nicky

View hairy's profile

hairy

2384 posts in 2993 days


#2 posted 04-20-2016 07:42 PM

Did you attach the router to a plate, or the the table top you made? Plates are maybe 1/4” thick. If you attached your router to 3/4” plywood you lost 1/2” of usable length.

-- stay thirsty my friends...

View HokieKen's profile

HokieKen

1738 posts in 599 days


#3 posted 04-20-2016 07:47 PM



Did you attach the router to a plate, or the the table top you made? Plates are maybe 1/4” thick. If you attached your router to 3/4” plywood you lost 1/2” of usable length.

- hairy

Yep that^. I have a feeling there’s too much material between the router and the top of the table. I looked at the HF table and it doesn’t appear it uses a plate either. The only other thing that comes to mind is whether or not the router is all the way down in the base.

-- Kenny, SW VA, Go Hokies!!!

View dmo0430's profile

dmo0430

23 posts in 463 days


#4 posted 04-20-2016 07:48 PM

I agree with Hairy. If you didn’t attach your base directly to the table you would lose 1/4” + depending on the table build.

View teejk02's profile

teejk02

423 posts in 586 days


#5 posted 04-20-2016 08:00 PM

Same thing happens with the Leigh dovetail jig and a PC 690 router. “Optimal” is to sink the cutter in the collet to within 1/8” of bottom but that’s a “no go” (the locking ring for the bushing plus the collet locking nut will not let that happen). Have to get as much “bite” on the shank as you can and trust the collet to hold it (a good one will but test it with a needle nose pliers before you hit that switch).

View jesinfla's profile

jesinfla

274 posts in 598 days


#6 posted 04-20-2016 10:21 PM

Thanks all for the responses – to answer your questions…

If your table is homemade, is it possible that it’s not centered to the router? Or the access hole is just too small.

The home made table…
The router is pretty well centered and the hole is large enough for the bit to extend.

The HF table and router

I have no control how the router itself or the hole is centered – so I assume it is correct since iit is a retail product.

Also, are you installing the bit “as far as it will go” in the routers collet?

Yes – for both routers.

Does any of this help? I’m happy to pull some youtube links for basic router operation.

Of course it does – all advice is helpful and welcome and of course greatly appreciated. I’ve looked at several basic router operation videos on YT, and followed one specifically step by step – watch vid, stop, do task rinse and repeat to the end.

Did you attach the router to a plate, or the the table top you made? Plates are maybe 1/4” thick. If you attached your router to 3/4” plywood you lost 1/2” of usable length.

No plate, I removed it before attaching. I wasn’t able to use the plate and attach the router anyway as the plate didn’t have exterior holes. – I know I lost a bit from the plywood. That’s why I bought the store bought router and table = figured I screwed up the depth measurements. But, same problem exists on the HF table and router.

Eventually. I was going to rout out the area where the router is attached to my home made table once I got good enough with the router – doesn’t look like that is ever going to happen LOL.

The only other thing that comes to mind is whether or not the router is all the way down in the base.

The router appears to be all the way up against the bottom of the table when trying to rout with a bit.

Have to get as much “bite” on the shank as you can and trust the collet to hold it (a good one will but test it with a needle nose pliers before you hit that switch).

Yes, this is what I did – mine I have to sit higher than 1/8” – it’s more like 1/4” – the collet does hold it in place on both routers.

The HF comes with 3 collets, I wasn’t able to ever get the 1/4” shank collet to grab any of my 1/4” bits which is why I bought the 1/2 – 1/4” adapter and eventually I just broke down and bought a set of 1/2” shank bits

All bits are brand new – 1/4” from HF and 1/2” from Grizzly. The HF table and router are brand new also, on sale this month for $59.99 ;)

Thanks everyone for the advice and information – your time and effort is greatly appreciated

-- They said I could be anything... So I became Sarcastic! They also said making drawers is easy... I think they lied :(

View ArtMann's profile

ArtMann

131 posts in 277 days


#7 posted 04-21-2016 01:11 AM

You should never insert a router bit all the way into the collet. Just insert it far enough for the collet to grip it firmly. Your owners manuals ought to tell you how far is ideal. If your table is only 1/2 inch thick, there should be plenty of length of the shaft sticking out to accommodate it. I built my first router table about 30 years ago and it was made from a half inch thick road sign I salvaged. I just screwed the router to the under surface so it was approximately centered on the hole and I used a 2X4 with c clamps as a fence. It worked fine until my needs became more sophisticated.

View jesinfla's profile

jesinfla

274 posts in 598 days


#8 posted 04-21-2016 02:01 AM

So, from what I can tell from the responses is that seating the bit high is acceptable and std practice.

Correct?

-- They said I could be anything... So I became Sarcastic! They also said making drawers is easy... I think they lied :(

View jerryminer's profile

jerryminer

528 posts in 902 days


#9 posted 04-21-2016 04:59 AM



So, from what I can tell from the responses is that seating the bit high is acceptable and std practice.

Correct?

- jesinfla

Right. I use 3/4” as my number. I make sure I have 3/4” of the shank inserted into the router collet. (Less than this could get dangerous).

Other fixes:

Rout out the bottom of the home-made table—about 3/8” or so—where the router attaches. (I’m not familiar with the HF table (nor do I want to be :)) but maybe the same can be done with it?

You can also by a router bit extension—which lets you get a deeper cut.

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