Need help with storm window sash joinery

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Forum topic by Sam Packard posted 04-17-2016 07:15 PM 448 views 0 times favorited 4 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Sam Packard

6 posts in 368 days

04-17-2016 07:15 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question

Hello All,
I’m wanting to pump out some storm windows for our double hung windows. I have a shaper bit that cuts the ogee and rabbit for glass and glazing to set in. It’s reversible to cut the ends of the rails to fit the stiles and then I’d have to use dowels. However I want to do it the hard way and cut it mortise and tenon. Does anyone know how this’d be done?
I thought of just making the frame mortise and tenon and then running the frame around on the shaper to cut the ogee and rabbett, but I’m getting a cheap feeling about this and it’d be alot of chiseling to eliminate the rounded corners from the shaper bit. I was looking at a original and it looks like there was a bit that maybe cut the rail ends without cutting off the tenon.
Thanks for any help
Sam Packard
Lincoln NE

4 replies so far

View jerryminer's profile


632 posts in 1018 days

#1 posted 04-17-2016 08:22 PM

More than one way to skin this cat.

Yes, there are cutters that will allow a full tenon.

With your current tooling, you might consider a “jack-miter” approach: All the parts are cut with the “sticking” (the ogee profile) and the rabbet. Then M&T joinery, and a miter for the ogee. Takes a little hand work, but quite do-able.

View Sam Packard's profile

Sam Packard

6 posts in 368 days

#2 posted 04-17-2016 08:31 PM

Thanks alot jerryminer, that’s perfect! You have a good answer to the 45degree meetings. I thought I’d bang out a practice joint. As you can see I didn’t have the ogee miter joint figured out.

View jerryminer's profile


632 posts in 1018 days

#3 posted 04-18-2016 02:24 AM

When I do this, I make a “saddle guide” for the chisel to clean up the miters (I rough-cut with a hand saw, clean up with a chisel):

View Texcaster's profile


1178 posts in 1250 days

#4 posted 04-18-2016 10:06 AM

Another option is to scribe ( cope) the joint. Proceed to miter ONE shoulder, as per jerry’s saddle guide. The mitered detail line is the line that you scribe to, pare just a little off 90deg.

You want to avoid a paper thin scribed edge, you want to see a little thickness at the edge because it can be under a little stress during assembly. The other shoulder is square. With a little practice and a sharp scribing gouge this is very fast and a little more forgiving than two miters.

scribing gouges, all second hand. 1/4, 3/8/ and 1/2 are the ones I’ve used the most for scribing.

This one came with the bevel just ground flat like a bench chisel, the outside profile becomes curved. it can be honed on a flat stone like a bench chisel, a real time saver. I’ve reground some of the the smaller gouges this way..

-- Mama calls me Texcaster but my real name is Mr. Earl.

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