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design for canoe gunwals - need suggestions please

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Forum topic by MartyS posted 354 days ago 197 views 0 times favorited 4 replies Add to Favorites
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MartyS

14 posts in 435 days


354 days ago

Topic tags/keywords: question

I’ve been asked to replace the gunwales on a kevlar canoe. The wife of the owner says it was custom made by Harry Rock as a poling canoe and means a lot to her husband. The old wood was damaged and the husband replaced it with pine.

I’m planning on using white oak or ash with teak decks fore and aft. The strips are only about 3/4” square, but 16 feet long. I’m wondering if it would make sense to go to the trouble of cutting strips and laminating them on a form, since the inwales and outwals define the shape of the top of the canoe. I wouldn’t need such a long board that way, either. That or try to find a really long straight grained and knot free board and hope it bends smoothly and evenly. I’m afraid of the strength (or lack thereof) of any type of splice.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

-- The secret to creativity is knowing how to hide your sources. Albert Einstein

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Dick, & Barb Cain

5372 posts in 828 days


353 days ago

Laminating strip should work good. Gorrilla Glue, or Resorsinol glue would be good to use.

With the amount of bend in a canoe, you should be able to get by with 1/4” strips. make your joints with a 45 degree cut, & use long overlaps were the joints are.

I made my Windsor chairs with laminations of 1/10” strips.

-- -** You are never to old to set another goal or to dream a new dream ****************** Dick, & Barb Cain, Hibbing, MN. http://www.woodcarvingillustrated.com/gallery/member.php?uid=3627&protype=1

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Harold

294 posts in 376 days


344 days ago

I do alot of laminating, and I have switched to epoxy for anything that will be exposed to water. I use fibergalss hawaii or west system. I would use the WS 105/205 it has a fairly long open time 1 hour +, even more this time of the year. I will wet all the pieces first and then apply another coat that has been thickened, just in case I have a gap go unnoticed. I run all my pieces thru my drum sander and then scratch them with a toothing plane beforehand to expose as many long fibers as possible, I actually just use the toothing plane iron itself, basically I am scratching the surface. This also creates a small tooth that helps keep the pieces from sliding to much. Another plus is that you don’t need as much clamping pressure, I would be comfortable with spring clamps side by side. Since you wouldn’t be stressing the hull you could use the canoe as a your form. Once the epoxy has cured you could remove the strips and shape and reinstall. Your bound to have some squeeze out/drips so I would cover the the canoe surface with butcher or masking paper before you clamped the laminations on. It wouldn’t take very much epoxy, i can’t imadgine more than a pint. You would also use the same 105 but with a 207 hardner as the first three coats of your finish and a spar varnish to protect it. sounds like a neat project.

-- If knowledge is not shared, it is forgotten.

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MartyS

14 posts in 435 days


343 days ago

Thanks for the input. I’m only off on Mondays and Tuesdays so last Tue I got the Ash and got it ready to laminate. I got lucky and found a great little lumber supplier not far from where I live. They just started very small a few years ago and now have about 20 different hardwoods generally generally in roughcut 12’ slabe about 8-16” wide, and some planks 3-6” thick and up to 10’-12’ long. Reasonable prices and the guy in charge seems pretty nice.

-- The secret to creativity is knowing how to hide your sources. Albert Einstein

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Abe Low

40 posts in 374 days


330 days ago

Harold’s advice is great. I would NOT use Gorilla glue as it tends to creep after it is dry. I made our kitchen counter top out of teak by edge glueing using Gorilla glue. The seams bled glue for 6 months. Just enough to bring up a slight glue ridge at the glue line. In addition to it being unslightly (to the touch) it gives me some slight fear that some day the joint will fail.
I also used Gorilla glue to laminate two redwood 2×6 for the top rails of my gates several years ago and the 2×6’s are separating. Prehaps I have been expecting too much.

-- Abe Low, Fine furniture, Sacramento, CA

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