How to get rid of wobble

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Forum topic by BB1 posted 04-17-2016 02:25 AM 772 views 0 times favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View BB1's profile


420 posts in 265 days

04-17-2016 02:25 AM

Checking on this question for my husband who is a new woodturner. He is using the barracuda 2 jaw chuck to try to hollow out a vase without using the tailstock. When turning on the lathe the vase has too much wobble/ vibration to work the piece. Not sure what is going wrong. He tried to look at youtube but couldn’t find an answer. The vase is about 17 inches tall. Any thoughts are welcome!

8 replies so far

View MrUnix's profile


4022 posts in 1616 days

#1 posted 04-17-2016 03:26 AM

Google steady rest

-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

View Jimbo4's profile


1420 posts in 2180 days

#2 posted 04-17-2016 03:42 AM

One reason it will wobble is the tenon is to deep into the jaws and is bottoming out, allowing the turning to not be flush with the outer “circle” portion of the jaws. Plus what MrUnix says.

-- BOVILEXIA: The urge to moo at cows from a moving vehicle.

View Dave G's profile

Dave G

300 posts in 1465 days

#3 posted 04-17-2016 09:56 AM

In this case, I’d use a steadyrest that goes all the way around, in case it gets loose, as it’s likely to do given the long length compared to its diameter.

-- Dave, New England - “We are made to persist. that's how we find out who we are.” ― Tobias Wolff

View LeeMills's profile


266 posts in 718 days

#4 posted 04-17-2016 01:41 PM

I agree with the others that a steady rest is mandatory for those chuck jaws and the depth of the turning.
Along with….
Tenon is too long and bottoms out…
There is no face for the top of the jaws to seat against….
Tenon is slightly oversized (note in the 2nd pic only the corners of the jaws are making contact).
It is difficult to tell from the pics if the chuck jaws have an interior dovetail or if a dovetail was formed on the tenon.

Stuart Batty has three excellent videos on forming tenon/spigots and recesses.
Jaws and Chucks; Recess Tenons and Preparing Recesses in Bowl Blanks; and Tenons Part 2

-- We cannot solve our problems with the same thinking we used when we created them. Albert Einstein

View soob's profile


223 posts in 626 days

#5 posted 04-17-2016 01:45 PM

That piece is really long to be chucking up that way in the first place. Probably better to take it off the lathe and drill it out. Finish the lip with it still supported by the tailstock first.

View Nikki's profile


70 posts in 189 days

#6 posted 04-17-2016 02:40 PM

I agree with what the others are stating. You don’t have the proper accessories to be doing this successfully. If there’s wobble it means your item isn’t centred or true. Adding things into a chuck can be tricky especially if the post is curved and does not sit flush. What I always do before I start turning is make sure it matches up to the tailstock even if you aren’t using it.

NOTE: I’m new to turning also and have only turned for one year and even that was limited due to the lathe being outside in the garage. It’s cold out there. lol

View BB1's profile


420 posts in 265 days

#7 posted 04-17-2016 03:56 PM

Thank you for all the responses! Looks like a steady rest needs to go on the purchase list plus learning some adfitional technique for larger pieces.

View Wildwood's profile


1848 posts in 1552 days

#8 posted 04-17-2016 08:04 PM

Even with a steady rest very difficult to hollow out the center with spindle or bowl turning tools. No way to control the tool that far over tool rest. Going more than 4” to 6” over the tool rest takes light cuts, luck, & some skill. That’s why most folks resort to hollowing tools. After turning few bowls like one shown set me off off on getting my hollowing tools.

A drill chuck mounted in tailstock & appropriate size bit(s) could work part of the way. Finding a wide enough to take you to the bottom of the vase could be very expensive.

Many people have made their own steady rest in this style for drilling & hollowing.

Trying to hollow out 16” takes some serious hollowing tools!

-- Bill

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