Craftsman OR35505

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Forum topic by mojoJoe posted 03-19-2010 02:31 PM 5887 views 3 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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3 posts in 2989 days

03-19-2010 02:31 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question

Hello everyone!

My name is Joe I am 27 Years old and just purchased the Craftsman OR35505. I have never owned a table saw before. I am just now getting into to woodworking and am hooked! Probably more so now that I will have the “main” tool. I don’t have it in my hands yet, can’t pick it up till the 24th. But, since this is my first table saw I have a few questions regarding setup.

1. What tools do I need to make sure everything is alligned? I now there are special gauges for this, but can I use my digital caliper somehow instead?
2. Any recommended upgrades or attachments that are must haves?
3. Anyone who has one, do you have any tips on putting it together?
4. I wanted to start reading the manual (setup instructions) but couldn’t find them. Anyone have a link or know where I can get them ahead of time?

Thanks for the help!

10 replies so far

View knotscott's profile


8014 posts in 3374 days

#1 posted 03-19-2010 05:15 PM

Hi Joe – The Craftsman OR35505 is more commonly known as the model 22114, aka a “zipcode” saw because of the 5-digit model numbers that resemble a zipcode. The 22114 was released around 2004 and has much in common with the 22124 from the same series, both made by Steel City’s Orion subsidiary.

Blade selection and proper setup will have a huge influence on how well the saw performs. Get a good blade or three, and align it well. I had excellent results from several high quality thin kerf blades on my 22124. Zero clearance inserts (ZCI) that fit the Delta Unisaw are a direct drop in for the zipcode saws…or you can make your own. There’s also an aftermarket riving knife called the BORK that will fit this saw.

The cabinet mounted trunnions on this saw are very easy to align. Alignment tools can be as simple as a combination square, or 5 cent jig, but you can use a digital caliper too.

If you like, I can email you a PDF file of the Craftsman 22124 manual, which is pretty similar to the 22114’s.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View mojoJoe's profile


3 posts in 2989 days

#2 posted 03-19-2010 06:13 PM

Thanks KnotScott!
I didn’t realize that they were the same. Sears had it listed as 00922114000. I guess I didn’t piece it together. I will be Looking into all of those parts. It will be much easier to find stuff now, I believe. If you want to email me the manual you have that would be nice.

As far as blades, I read Forrest blades are good? Any other recommendations?

View knotscott's profile


8014 posts in 3374 days

#3 posted 03-19-2010 08:08 PM

Email sent!

Lots of good choices in blades. Forrest has several excellent choices, but are usually at the top of the expense curve. There are a few others that I consider comparable premium blades for less, and many others that are solid values in good blades for ~ $50 or less. What to get depends on a lot of things….blade tips

Premium thin kerf general purpose blades:
Ridge Carbide TS2000 ($81 shipped from with “BT310” code
Freud Premier Fusion thin kerf – $80 from Woodcraft
Forrest WWII 40T TK ~ $100
Forrest WWII 30T TK ~ $90
Infinity 010-150 Combomax is on sale from (~ $70)
Infinity 010-060 ~ $70
Freud LU88R010
~ $60
* These two 60T blades offer cleaner cuts, but with somewhat limited efficiency in thick ripping up to ~ 5/4” compared to typical 40T or 50T general purpose blades that’ll rip efficiently to 8/4”.

A few thin kerf general purpose bargain suggestions:
CMT P10050 50T ATB/R combo blade from Lowes for $40
CMT 256.050.10 50T ATB/R combo from Holbren for $45
Freud LU86R010 40T ATB for $42 shipped from Amazon
Ridgid Titanium R1050C (by Freud) 50T ATB/R combo from HD for $40
Freud Diablo D1050 50T ATB/R combo from HD and others
Freud Diablo D1040 40T ATB from HD and others
Craftsman Pro 32808 40T ATB from Sears (by Freud)
Craftsman Pro 32864 50T ATB/R combo (by Freud)
Freud Avanti TK306 40T ATB from Rockler for $20 (find a free s/h code)
DeWalt Precision Trim DW7150PT (~ $40)

If you want a general purpose blade that will truly do an outstanding job with nearly every task you’re likely to encounter, including superior plywood performance you might consider two blades. The combination of the Infinity 010-060 60T Hi-ATB blade and the Forrest 30T WWII TK are nearly a perfect compliment to each other, and offer extremely good performance across a very wide range. These two blades each offer a taste of the dedicated specialty blades but they don’t suffer from the limited range that the specialty blades do. Either is suitable for most general purpose applications, but each has it’s strength at the opposite extreme. I had this combination on my 22124 and thought the two were wonderful together, and is a combination I’ve suggested many times in lieu of a standard 3 blade set. My 80T Leitz blade and 24T Freud ripper sat dormant most of the time I had the 30T and 60T blades available. It’s unlikely you’ll encounter any situations (other than junk wood) where you’ll want another blade…keep the stock blade for high risk stuff. Combining these two blades is like taking a typical 40T or 50T general purpose/combo blade and extending it’s functional range of excellence into the regions where a dedicated blade is generally used. While a bit on the expensive side, I can’t give a higher recommendation than this combo for your saw for the tasks you described. They should cover all your bases with flying colors.

The Infinity 010-060 is a great compliment to the 30T WWII. Where the 30T WWII is weak (ultra fine crosscuts, ply, etc), the 010-060 is at it’s best. The Hi-ATB grind offers superior crosscuts, superior plywood cuts, but the geometry also allows it to rip very cleanly to ~ 5/4”. It doesn’t rip as efficiently as the 30T (or a 40T), but it will rip well in most common thicknesses, so it doesn’t need to be changed out most of the time if you don’t feel like it. The 010-060 is also very versatile in what type saw it can be used on…it’s an excellent CMS, RAS, or SCMS blade as well as being terrific in the table saw.

The 30T WWII will cut nearly as cleanly as the 40T WWII…it’s very difficult to tell the cuts apart, but when you start ripping thicker materials, it’s nearly as efficient as a 24T ripper…and it cuts cleaner than any 24T ripper up to ~ 3”. While it’s not known as a great crosscutter, it can give respectable crosscuts in many applications, so it’s not essential that it be changed out if you don’t feel like it either.

Another similar scenario that’s not quite as expensive is to substitute the Freud LU87R010 24T (or comparable CMT 202.024.10, Infinity 010-124, or DeWalt Precision Trim DW7124PT), ripper for the WWII 30T. You’ll loose a versatility overall because the LU87 doesn’t crosscut, but you’ll gain some efficiency in thick ripping.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View mojoJoe's profile


3 posts in 2989 days

#4 posted 03-26-2010 09:44 AM

Thanks again! I will get a new blade(s) and ZCI in the next week or so.

An update if anyone is interested…

I picked up the saw yesterday and set it up. It took me about 6 hours. Went pretty smoothly I think. Didn’t have any major issues. After everything was done and put together, I fired it up and it passed the nickel test! Well I think the nickel test. I stood a Nickel up on its end while it was running and it didn’t even move. Even started and stopped it while it was standing. Not bad for my first table saw assembly! I will write a review sometime in the future when I can get more time and money to actually use it!

View Bill White's profile

Bill White

4930 posts in 3959 days

#5 posted 03-26-2010 04:59 PM

Now take all your money, all you can borrow, buy the biggest building you can find, wire it for 8 zillion outlets, and start enjoying your newest addiction.


View Andrew's profile


709 posts in 3197 days

#6 posted 03-26-2010 06:15 PM

Nice, I have the same saw, it went together smoothly about 6 hours. Keep an eye on the fence, mine angle away slightly from the blade, better away the dangerous way of toward the blade. I haven’t had the gumption to find the manual and bring the fence back to where it should be. I did buy the 40 tooth thin kerf craftsman blade mentioned above. It got very good reveiws, and it performs very well, I use it only for finish cuts, and primarily use the stock blade which really isn’t great, but takes a fair amount of abuse.

-- Even a broken clock is right twice a day, unless, it moves at half speed like ....-As the Saw Turns

View BKSLDR7's profile


6 posts in 2680 days

#7 posted 01-22-2011 07:13 AM

I have a very old Craftsman table saw (before 1950) that I inherited from my dad years ago. It has finally begun to show its’ age. I’ve been thinking of purchasing the Craftsman OR35505 (actual model#152.22114) or the Steel City 35900. Can any of you that have had experience with the OR3505 tell me how you like it and if you have had any problems with the construction, eg. Fence alignment, cast iron defects, blade truing/vibration, etc. ? I like the the fence with the Craftsman, especially the movable extruded aluminum extension, but Craftsman fences are notorious for alignment problems and I have no experience with the one that comes with the OR35505. The Steel City 35900 is much more expensive and has gotten great reviews but I could buy the Craftsman with table extensions and even get a separate Delta T2 or Vega fence for less than the cost of the Steel City saw.

View Walter's profile


9 posts in 2434 days

#8 posted 09-25-2011 03:06 AM

good day

dado blade and Craftsman OR35505
i have found this saw aCraftsman OR35505 for sale. i am told it was never used. one big reason I am looking is dado blade. doe anyone know if this saw has the long arbor or the standard lenth arbor?

View knotscott's profile


8014 posts in 3374 days

#9 posted 09-25-2011 03:37 AM

It’s a standard length….pretty much the same as other contractor and hybrid saws. You can add most full stacks but may need to leave off the arbor washer and just snug it with the nut….this is a common practice that is accepted and safe as long as the nut is fully seated with threads coming all the way through.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View Walter's profile


9 posts in 2434 days

#10 posted 09-25-2011 03:44 AM

okay, my current saw will take a 1/2 with outer arbor washer. I will try it without the washer. maybe i will hold off on a new saw even it sounds like a deal, 400 cash never used.
thank you

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