wipe on poy

You leave it on. Wipe on poly is just oil based poly thined about 50% with spirits. Love the stuff, use it all the time.

-- Jimmy, Oklahoma "It's a dog-eat-dog world, and I'm wearing milkbone underwear!"

+1 for bayspt…......... just what he said….. he’s got you covered…...........

-- " Don't ever wrestle a pig in a mudhole....he'll be having more fun than you..!!

I did what bayspt said. Just don’t over apply, do several light coats. I used it on a maple/padauk desk ( http://lumberjocks.com/projects/13120 ). Maple soaks it in better than padauk. I applied too much at a time and ended up with nice dry coat on maple and tacky uneven layer on padauk right next to it that took very long to dry. I even had to scrape it in few places and go with another very light coat. Overall I like wipe on poly very much. It is easy to use and gives nice warm natural look.

I used wipe on poly for the first time on my last project and love it. It sure beats painting it on with a brush.

-- Wayne - Plymouth MN

I’ve actually never used wipe on poly before, can you guys suggest a good brand specifically? I figured it was safe to redirect since the initial question was answered. Thanks guys.

-- Blair

Minwax poly is fine. You dont have to buy the wiping poly. Just buy regular poly (not water based), and thin it 50% with mineral spirits. The instructions will tell you not to, but that is the standard practice for mixing wiping poly.

Yep, I used Minwax and it worked great. I used their regular wiping poly. It was a bit pricy I thought, but couldnt beat it.

-- Wayne - Plymouth MN

I tried the water based wipe on poly and didn’t like it as it raised the grain and i had to resand. Like the minwax wipe on poly the best.It takes more coats to get the same finish as spraying though.

For the first coat, I flood it on with a brush and then wipe off the excess after it has had enough time to be absorbed, but before it starts to tack. (especially vertical surfaces). The next coats I do the same but do not wipe off the horizontal surfaces. During this stage, I usually rotate the “show ” faces so each has its turn at the horizontal position. If the item has a top usable surface like an end table, dresser, etc, that is the last surface horizontal, and gets at least one full strength coat. I am careful to wipe off any drips on the edges.

If you want a bit of amber look, a 1 – 1 – 1 ratio of poly, boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits (equal parts) makes a good wipe on mix, but takes a little bit longer to dry.

I have found it easier to apply with a bristle brush, as it is easier to get into corners without overloading it, easier to adjust the amount on interior surfaces, and easier to work one surface at a time. As for number of coats, it depends on the wood, and whether I want a plastic smooth surface or am okay with the grain showing.

If you want a satin finish, use high gloss for all the base coats and only use the varnish with the flatteners in the last one or two coats. Otherwise you may get a cloudy finish if building it up to a real smooth surface.

JMTCW

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