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Forum topic by Roger posted 04-11-2016 12:08 AM 861 views 1 time favorited 14 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Roger

19886 posts in 2271 days


04-11-2016 12:08 AM

Topic tags/keywords: bandsaw co-planer

Hi folks. I just finished sending a note to Powermatic, but, I also want to ask ya’ll for some help on this question. I know it may be a few days before I hear anything from them, plus, I wasn’t able to send the pics to them, but, I did explain my problem.

First thnx for reading my problem. I appreciate any input.

While making a cut on my 14” powermatic bandsaw the other day, something started making a funny noise so, I shut er down. After the blade stopped, I noticed a few small pieces of rubber on the table top. They looked like little noodles or hairs.

When I opened up the lower door, I see my tire had come off the wheel….............yep, the tire came off the wheel. Holy Crap!

After taking closer looks at things, I took table off and the blade off. While looking at my wheels, I got put a straight edge against the bottom wheel and up to the top wheel.

Here is my lower wheel with the straight edge on it:

And here is the upper wheel…................with a 3/8” gap between the top of the wheel and the straight edge: Surely this isn’t normal….........but, it must have been like this since I bought it in 2008.

I know Alex Snodgrass from Carter Products says your wheels don’t need to be co-planer, BUT, 3/8” out??
I am stumped on how to, or what to do…

Thnx for any ideas/solutions.

I can’t afford to buy a new bandsaw, so, that’s out of the picture.

-- Roger from KY. Work/Play/Travel Safe. Keep your dust collector fed. Kentuk55@yahoo.com


14 replies so far

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MrUnix

4247 posts in 1666 days


#1 posted 04-11-2016 12:12 AM

Put new tires back on and start making sawdust… co-planer is not necessary, and will never be since the upper wheel pivots in and out for tracking.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

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hairy

2384 posts in 3000 days


#2 posted 04-11-2016 12:20 AM

The bottom wheel is fixed, the upper pivots and is adjustable for blade tracking. Without a blade and tension the top wheel could be out of position a little, and that should clear up with a blade under tension and the angle adjusted.

See how the gap gets wider the farther up you go, it’s at an angle compared to the lower.

-- stay thirsty my friends...

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lew

11348 posts in 3223 days


#3 posted 04-11-2016 12:30 AM

What Brad said. I’ve read that the wheels are not necessarily “co-planer”. My bandsaw wheels are about the same as yours.

If the tire is stretched, I’d replace it. You might use a little “rubber cement” to fix the tire to the wheel until a new one arrives.

-- Lew- Time traveler. Purveyor of the Universe's finest custom rolling pins.

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Roger

19886 posts in 2271 days


#4 posted 04-11-2016 12:34 AM

Thnx guys. I guess I was just surprised by the 3/8” gap. I’ve watched Alex Snodgrass in this video, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGbZqWac0jU which was very informative way back.

I know I’ve never had any issues with this other that it’s kinda finicky.

I was planning on putting new tires on it anyway, but, it just blew my mind a bit.
Appreciate ya’ll chimin in.

-- Roger from KY. Work/Play/Travel Safe. Keep your dust collector fed. Kentuk55@yahoo.com

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Mork

267 posts in 2242 days


#5 posted 04-11-2016 12:47 AM

My restored 12 inch Craftsman is almost dead on with tensions and pretty darn close without. I would replace the tire and install a blade. If this doesn’t drastically improve the condition you need to look deeper. In my opinion you should not see more than an 1/8 inch out of parallel. I’m not aware of how the tension set up is on your band saw but this seems extreme to me.

View Joe Lyddon's profile

Joe Lyddon

9451 posts in 3520 days


#6 posted 04-11-2016 01:31 AM

Roger,

If you can, put Urethane Tires on it… Much better than plain ole Rubber.

I agree… replace the tires & go from there…

-- Have Fun! Joe Lyddon - Alta Loma, CA USA - Home: http://www.WoodworkStuff.net ... My Small Gallery: http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showgallery.php?ppuser=1389&cat=500"

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Jim Jakosh

17196 posts in 2573 days


#7 posted 04-11-2016 02:08 AM

Hi Roger. I second what Joe says about the urethane tires. I put them on the saw in Az where it gets real hot and they work real nice for years now.

I would put new tires on it and then see where it tracks on the top wheel when it is centered on the bottom wheel. My friend in Illinois had a cheap saw that would ride on the edge of the top wheel when the bottom was centered. We put shim washers behind the the top wheel to make them both run on center.

I would expect the Powermatic to be well made and it might be okay with the new tires but you’ll find out when the new tires are installed.

I just went down and checked my Grizzly G0555 and both wheels are almost in perfect alignment with the blade in the center of each

Cheers, Jim

-- Jim Jakosh.....Practical Wood Products...........Learn something new every day!! Variety is the Spice of Life!!

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Jim Jakosh

17196 posts in 2573 days


#8 posted 04-11-2016 03:07 AM

Roger. i could not see if you had a riser in that Powermatic saw, but I was looking for set up tips and found this on another wood web site. the guy complained of drift on his band saw and here was one of the replies”:

Dave,

Make sure that the top and bottom wheels are lined up. Powermatic had a batch of risers with a missplaced hole that would mess this alignment up. I know they were frantically going through their stock to find the remaining pieces but with so much inventory going through there, some might have gotten out. If you find this alignment is off, call them for a new riser.
If that is not it, back off all of the bearings/guides and start over. I had this happen on a JET bandsaw I had and it turned out to be something I did along the way. I don’t know how and I don’t remember doing it but I was the only one there and going back and starting over fixed it. I had to be the one that messed up but lets keep that as our little secret…..

And the reply by the user:
I contacted Powermatic today about the riser block holes. I was told they were not replacing them. However the only thing I had to do is drill the holes out one size larger. So I’ll give that at try.
Just so I got this right. The top wheel should be even or parallel with the bottom wheel before I adjust tracking? I presume that is the correct alignment.
Thans again
Dave
And the end of the story!

It’s been awhile but I finally got the setup thing figured out. I was at a woodworking show at our local Woodcraft store recently. I was talking to the Powermatic guy and he told me to just ream out the holes in the riser block to the very next size and that should take care of the problem. There also was a gentleman there demoing (if that’s a word) the Timberwolf blades on that Powermatic saw, which I use almost exclusivaly. After the Powermatic guy walked off he told me he believed my ploblem was in the setup of the machine. Without going into extreme detail. The Timberwolf guy explaned to me that the bottom wheel is only a drive wheel and that the blade doesn’t have to run exactly in the center of the belt. The top wheel is the important one. He showed me the one in the store and it too was not parallel with the top wheel and it cut as straight as an arrow. He said I would be getting into trouble if I started to ream out the holes bacause then I would have side to side play and not just front to back. If the top section was out of alignment side to side with the bottom then I would really have trouble cutting straight. I took his word for it and followed all his tips for proper alignment of the saw and tensioning of the blades. I have since been able to cut everything with no issues. It cuts perfectly fine. So, the piont to this is setup is crucial to the operation. I thought I had it right but was off only a little but alittle was alot. Thanks all for your help. Without your sugestions I would have still been pulling out my hair only to end up looking like Youl Brenner. Thanks again guys. Bruno

The following user says Thank You to DPLRBruno for this useful post:

JillB

-- Jim Jakosh.....Practical Wood Products...........Learn something new every day!! Variety is the Spice of Life!!

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lew

11348 posts in 3223 days


#9 posted 04-11-2016 03:51 AM

Roger,
Here’s a link to an interesting article disputing the need for the wheels to be coplanar-
http://thewoodworkersnews.com/2012/11/bandsaw-blade/

-- Lew- Time traveler. Purveyor of the Universe's finest custom rolling pins.

View Roger's profile

Roger

19886 posts in 2271 days


#10 posted 04-11-2016 09:57 AM

Thnx everyone.

Jim: thnx for those stories and thoughts.

lew: thnx for that link also. Like the video that Alex posted, it makes sense.

I’m believing that I had the blade adjusted very wrong. I have some new urethane tires that I’ll install along with a new blade and see where that takes me.

I’m also believing, that I must o had another brain fart or something. Sometimes I wonder if there is anything between me ears…

-- Roger from KY. Work/Play/Travel Safe. Keep your dust collector fed. Kentuk55@yahoo.com

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JoeinGa

7489 posts in 1474 days


#11 posted 04-11-2016 11:56 AM

You said the tire came off, so I’m thinking that the picture above shows the upper wheel still “tensioned”. If that’s so, then unscrew the tensioning wheel and bring the wheel back down, thereby LOWERING the wheel. I’ll bet that gap gets smaller.

And I highly concur on the Urethane tires being MUCH better.

-- Perform A Random Act Of Kindness Today ... Pay It Forward

View Joe Lyddon's profile

Joe Lyddon

9451 posts in 3520 days


#12 posted 04-11-2016 09:41 PM

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Roger

19886 posts in 2271 days


#13 posted 04-13-2016 11:35 AM

Powermatic did send me an email and asked me to call their tech dept., but, I realized I didn’t need to. I have figured out my problem. I had a seized bearing which created all of my problems. I’m positive that the bad bearing created so much heat on the blade, it just ruined the blade, and while I was re-sawing a board, the blade had become so hot, and un-sharp, well, I think that’s how it happened. Anyhoo, after getting they bearing fixed, I did get new tires and a new blade.
I just finished putting it back together last night, by the expertise of Alex in this video, and it seems to be working just fine.

Beside the bearing, I think I didn’t have the tracking right on the blade. I have the deepest part of the gullet in the center of the wheel like Alex showed, and so far, it seems like it’s fine. Thnx everyone for your 2-cents. All seems well. It’s hell gettin old. Too many brain cramps on the horizon.

-- Roger from KY. Work/Play/Travel Safe. Keep your dust collector fed. Kentuk55@yahoo.com

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Aj2

693 posts in 1265 days


#14 posted 04-13-2016 01:41 PM

I’m glad you got it figured out.I have the same saw and had problems with tires when I first bought my saw.Its been a good a machine and no problems with tire for a while now.

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