LumberJocks

Freud 99-475 Chair Rail Molding Router Bit?

  • Advertise with us

« back to Woodworking Skill Share forum

Forum topic by john200 posted 03-16-2010 05:08 PM 1776 views 0 times favorited 2 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View john200's profile

john200

25 posts in 2512 days


03-16-2010 05:08 PM

Help!!
I have a Freud 99-475 1/2” shank chair rail molding router bit and I was hoping somebody my have some experience that could assist me in finding information on the safe and proper use of this bit. I just don’t know how to get it to work without serious safety concerns. I do understand it is for only using on a router table, which I have.
I have tried small cuts, etc, but this is one nasty bit!
Thanks,
John

-- John200, Vancouver, WA


2 replies so far

View eastside's profile

eastside

97 posts in 2724 days


#1 posted 03-23-2010 03:01 PM

John that bit is better run on a shaper with a power feeder. A large router in a table will work but as you said really scary. If you have to use a router and do not have a power feeder then my next step is first check the speed of your router and the speed suggested for the bit. Then I would bite the bullet and buy or make a chunk of lumber thick enough for the bit. If the bit is 2 3/4 tall then 3 1/4 thickness will do. When it starts removing wood you want untouched material on top and bottom to continue riding the fence, in this example it would be 1/4 inch. Now I suggest thick so you can get about 6 inches in width this will give you a solid feel when pushing it through. If your running 3/4 thick material now (and I assume you are) the chatter will scare the heck out of you. The beefy piece will put you back in control. Square up the piece so you can run both sides and don’t try to do it in one pass. Make the last pass 1/32 for a clean up pas and try keep a steady feed rate. Cut those two pieces of and start again. The width of the board will depend on how many pieces you need. Remember that you still need a good beefy piece to run the last one. After all pieces are cut off then you can now run them through the thickness planner to clean the back and get them all to the same thickness then remove the excess 1/4 that was originally left above and below the piece. One word of caution the final pass must be with the fence at the exact same setting if you plan on using my last suggesting about running it through the planner or the profile might end up at a slight different height. Good luck and I hope you see this while you still have all your fingers. LOL Mike

-- Mike, Westport MA.

View john200's profile

john200

25 posts in 2512 days


#2 posted 03-23-2010 04:52 PM

Thanks for your input Mike, much appreciated!
I’m not following you on a few of your points. Are you saying I shouldn’t use a 3/4” thick piece? (I’m using cherry hardwood) and it is 8” in width. I want to end up with 1 piece 4’ long for my situation.
I don’t have a planer, just a jointer. When you say beefy piece, what does that mean?
Time is no problem, so I can run several runs at 1/32”.
Please excuse my ignorance and again I appreciate all your assistance.
John

-- John200, Vancouver, WA

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com