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Forum topic by Kelly posted 04-04-2016 04:46 PM 556 views 0 times favorited 11 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Kelly

1113 posts in 2408 days


04-04-2016 04:46 PM

[BACKGROUND]

I’m a newbie to turning. I acquired a Jet mini a few months ago and got the turning bug. I just acquired a Reeve’s Drive Rockwell Delta 46-450 that was working, but which I’m restoring (new bearings and paint).

Fortunately, both lathes take 1” x 8TPI chucks and number 2 tapers.

Currently, I have:

For the drive end:

- A relatively small taper spur drive, which came with the little Jet;
- A slightly larger taper spur drive, which came with the 46-450;
- A small, smooth drive I picked up for working items, like pens;
- A no name chuck (two bar adj.);
- NOVA JSPIN Pin Chuck Accessory Jaw Set, for doing small spindles and such; and
- The screw on plate (1”x8TPI), which came with the Jet.

For the tail stock:

- A couple live centers – A tapered drill chuck

Misc.:

- A pen mandrel [with spacers]
- Plenty of knives

Just as a point of reference, though I will, no doubt, tackle a bowl or two on down the road, I am only interested in architectural (spindles, etc.) work at this time.

Now the questions:

- Since I have the jaws and would like to play with spindles supported only at the drive, I want to pick up a Nova chuck to mount them in. Any ideas of the ideal for the Nova chuck jaws I have [and my two lathes]?

- Are there any preferences for drill chucks that can be locked in with all-thread (to also serve for holding small items)?


NOTE: I recognize it’s more than a little probable I’ll, eventually, add more chucks to the collection, rather than fight swapping chuck teeth.


11 replies so far

View Wildwood's profile (online now)

Wildwood

1885 posts in 1599 days


#1 posted 04-04-2016 07:12 PM

Installing long spindles in a chuck without tailstock support very dangerous. Would think a Nova G3 or SN2 chuck with standard jaws would work well with the Delta 46-450. You can always buy additional jaws as you need later. JMHO can buy jaws to hold small work which will work better than most drill chucks. Drill chucks work fine for drilling but holding small work without tailstock support while turning can prove difficult. That no name tommy bar might be better option on your Jet mini.

Bought a Talon chuck body and spigot jaw set to hold small items, got tired of using drill chuck & tailstock support. I dread chianging jaws. My other Talon has #2 jaws that came with the chuck and works well with spindles, bowls, and hollow forms. Once learn how and when to use tenons and recesses will find standard jaws work well. I often turn between centers before mounting work in my chuck or faceplates.

-- Bill

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Nubsnstubs

826 posts in 1194 days


#2 posted 04-04-2016 11:55 PM

Welcome to the vortex. Get an SN 2. It will come with a 50 mm jaw set, unless there is some kind of sale going on. You can always get a larger jaw set later, as need requires. It will probably also require an insert, which isn’t bad. The chuck then can be used on different spindle sizes if you have the proper inserts. Order the ILNS Nova insert from Amazon, which will save you a bunch….............. jerry (in Tucson)

-- Jerry (in Tucson)

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Kelly

1113 posts in 2408 days


#3 posted 04-05-2016 01:44 AM

By “long spindles,” I mean around eight or ten inches, max. Think in terms of ornaments, rattles, etc. More simply said, I have no interest in playing crack the [wooden] whip with a lathe.

It sounds like a good policy to do as much as can be done between centers, before dropping the tail stock.


Installing long spindles in a chuck without tailstock support very dangerous. Would think a Nova G3 or SN2 chuck with standard jaws would work well with the Delta 46-450. You can always buy additional jaws as you need later. JMHO can buy jaws to hold small work which will work better than most drill chucks. Drill chucks work fine for drilling but holding small work without tailstock support while turning can prove difficult. That no name tommy bar might be better option on your Jet mini.

Bought a Talon chuck body and spigot jaw set to hold small items, got tired of using drill chuck & tailstock support. I dread chianging jaws. My other Talon has #2 jaws that came with the chuck and works well with spindles, bowls, and hollow forms. Once learn how and when to use tenons and recesses will find standard jaws work well. I often turn between centers before mounting work in my chuck or faceplates.

- Wildwood


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HapHazzard

92 posts in 332 days


#4 posted 04-05-2016 03:01 AM

I make a lot of tool handles, mostly 6-8”, 12” tops, and there’s no way I’d turn one without a tailstock center. I tried it a few times when I was just getting started, and it doesn’t work. You can’t clamp a spindle in the chuck tight enough that it won’t get pushed off center while you’re working on it, no matter how careful you are. And if you get a catch you can snap the tenon right off. I don’t take the center off until I’m ready to replace it with a drill chuck and drill the tang socket.

-- Unix programmers never die; they just > /dev/null

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Kelly

1113 posts in 2408 days


#5 posted 04-05-2016 03:38 AM

Guys, I don’t want to reinvent the wheel (e.g., turn handles only using the drive end (I’ve made about forty)). I want to do things you cannot do supporting both ends. For example:

Of course, I don’t want to reinvent the wheel by doing it the hard way either (e.g., doing what is normally done by supporting both ends). I have emptied my thirty gallon drum of leavings from lathe work about four times, so I believe you on the need for supporting both ends, when possible. However, I want to be able to drill a hole, or do fine work, like in the above. That’s why I’m looking for ideas on the means of supporting stock with chucks (and supporting the work with my hand).

View Rick M's profile (online now)

Rick M

7919 posts in 1844 days


#6 posted 04-05-2016 04:58 AM

I have a G3 and a Midi. Quality-wise they are the same but the G3 is easier to use. Amazon and ebay often have sales on the G3 so keep an eye out.

-- http://thewoodknack.blogspot.com/

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Wildwood

1885 posts in 1599 days


#7 posted 04-05-2016 12:57 PM

“- Are there any preferences for drill chucks that can be locked in with all-thread (to also serve for holding small items)?”

Kelly when ask questions like this not sure if talking about collet chuck or using your drill chuck with Morse taper.

http://www.packardwoodworks.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=packard&Category_Code=lathes-acc-spec-beallclet

Reason mentioned my spigot jaw set think buying either Nova jaw set better option for what you want to do over collet or drill chuck!

http://www.packardwoodworks.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=packard&Category_Code=chuck-fourjaw-jaws-nova-dove

http://www.packardwoodworks.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=packard&Product_Code=113111&Category_Code=chuck-fourjaw-jaws-nova-dove

We are not trying to re-invent the wheel either trying to respond to a newbie’s questions without knowing his/her experience level!

-- Bill

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LeeMills

271 posts in 765 days


#8 posted 04-05-2016 01:30 PM

The Nova G3 or the SN2 will work for you. Toolsplus has the G3 fro $99 and then SN2 for $139. You will need the appropriate insert for your spindle size for either; they carry the inserts also.
http://www.tools-plus.com/nova-chucks.html

Not quite understanding your Jacobs chuck (drill) you state..
A tapered drill chuck “You have one”
You need “Are there any preferences for drill chucks that can be locked in with all-thread (to also serve for holding small items)?” Are you talking about locking in a bolt into the back of the chuck? If your current chuck has a taper to fit the tailstock it should fit the headstock. If the taper is not tapped to receive a draw bar you should be able to tap it without much problem.
If you want just a new taper you can get a drawbar style here for <$6.
http://www.victornet.com/report/Arbors-Morse-Taper-Straight-Shank-to-Threaded-End/1424.html

-- We cannot solve our problems with the same thinking we used when we created them. Albert Einstein

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Kelly

1113 posts in 2408 days


#9 posted 04-05-2016 05:26 PM

The information offered has been VERY helpful.

It looks like it’s either the G3 or the Super. I’m leaning to the G3, if only because it seems more likely to be tolerated by the little lathe too (my wife is due for retirement this year and indicated she might be interested in trying her hand at the little lathe).

To clarify on the matter of the drill chuck, I did want to use a[n adjustable bolt (all-thread) to hold a chuck in the head stock. The one I have isn’t drilled and tapped, so can only be [safely] used in the tail stock.

The prices in the links provided makes having a couple sizes very do-able.

While I hadn’t mentioned it, the responses even pointed to answers for a question I hadn’t yet asked (damn, you guys are good).

Out of the $25.00 yard sale gloat I, recently, posted about, I scored eleven new, in the box Lyndex collets the guy bought for metal lathe work. They range in size from 1/8” to 3/4”. For them, I needed either a 1” x 8 TPI screw on holder OR a number 2 taper holder.

The Beal chucks are a different style, but give me some direction for finding a holder for my lathes. The ones I are flared at the top, then the bodies are straight [with no threads on the bottoms].

View Wildwood's profile (online now)

Wildwood

1885 posts in 1599 days


#10 posted 04-05-2016 09:23 PM

You might check this book online, did not see the homemade collet & pin chuck had in his first book same name. Still has same steady rest made from original book. Still have that pin chuck somewhere, have made different wood collet chucks over the years. Some saved my bacon others more problems than worth.
Point here can spend a lot of money on different pieces of equipment only to find a good scroll chuck with proper jaws is the ticket and those items seldom used.

http://www.wood.woodtools.nov.ru/books/lathe_book/lathe_book.pdf

Collet chucks very popular with some pen turners that use mandrel or drill rod. Think ER-32 collets most popular. I prefer to use a dead center in the headstock & live center in the tailstock with kit bushings even though own three pen mandrels.

You might hang out here if want some tips, tricks, & techniques on pen turning.

http://www.penturners.org/forum/

I buy my kits from Berea but have bought from Craft Supplies, & Penn State Industries. My first kits came from Packard Woodworks a reseller of Penn State. Have also bought PSI kits from Woodturningz & Wood-n-Whimseys.

http://www.bereahardwoods.com/

https://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/

https://www.pennstateind.com/

Ask for a free catalog from Craft Supplies, Packard Woodworks, and PSI think will enjoy them.

-- Bill

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Kelly

1113 posts in 2408 days


#11 posted 04-05-2016 11:04 PM

Thanks, Bill. Peeked at the book and will spend more time on it. Seems to have a lot of good information. I like the “it doesn’t all have to be engineered at a factory” approach to some of the accessories.

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