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Delta fence itself is not square -- 36-725, 10" table saw, any fixes?

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Forum topic by huyz posted 04-03-2016 10:17 PM 3024 views 0 times favorited 22 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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huyz

49 posts in 326 days


04-03-2016 10:17 PM

Topic tags/keywords: delta table saw 36 725 36-725 fence square question

Hey all,

I just exchanged a Delta 36-725 table saw because one of the miter slots was not milled properly.

Got a problem with the fence now—the fence itself is not square. I realize the tilt on it can be adjusted but it seems like the center of the fence is sucked in along the entire length on both sides. Possibly from the screws inside being overtightened from the factory.

Attached a pic to show what it looks like with a square on the cast iron top, up agains the locked-down fence.

I tried loosening the screws inside the fence to lessen the tension but it seems irreversible. Anyway just wondering if any other owners of this saw had this problem? I suppose as long as my workpiece is flat against the cast iron top and makes contact with the bottom of the fence it should not be a problem.


22 replies so far

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

7216 posts in 2841 days


#1 posted 04-03-2016 10:40 PM

You could always build some sort of auxiliary fence. Handy to have. You can add all kinds jigs to them too….sacrificial fence, tall fence, hold downs, etc. You could always have Delta replace it, an hope the next one is better.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View conifur's profile

conifur

955 posts in 617 days


#2 posted 04-03-2016 10:42 PM

What difference will it make? If the wood is flat and a 90* edge it will only touch the fence at one point of contact, where the fence and table meet.

-- Knowledge and experience equals Wisdom, Michael Frankowski

View ThomasChippendale's profile

ThomasChippendale

244 posts in 397 days


#3 posted 04-03-2016 11:08 PM

Thanks conifer for another bad advice.

The fence should be flat, my unisaw fence has the same behaviour but less pronounced, looking forward for solutions.

PJ

-- PJ

View Richard H's profile

Richard H

489 posts in 1146 days


#4 posted 04-03-2016 11:16 PM

Do you mean the fence is warped?

If so there isn’t a whole lot you can do about it except build a auxiliary fence like Knotscott suggested or try to get Delta to replace it. You can overcompensate one end of it to far the other way so that your fence is close the entire length with it swinging from out of square one way at one end to out of square the other way on the other end but a square fence is pretty important especially when working with tall pieces on edge so it’s probably not something you want to try to live with unless you can get it really close to square the entire length.

View conifur's profile

conifur

955 posts in 617 days


#5 posted 04-03-2016 11:53 PM

Thanks conifer for another bad advice.

The fence should be flat, my unisaw fence has the same behaviour but less pronounced, looking forward for solutions.

PJ

- ThomasChippendale
I t was not advice it is a fact, and if cutting a taller piece it will contact the other point at the top of the fence.
If you want a solution, call customer service at Delta, and dont whine here.

-- Knowledge and experience equals Wisdom, Michael Frankowski

View Kazooman's profile

Kazooman

628 posts in 1417 days


#6 posted 04-04-2016 12:08 AM

Thanks conifer for another bad advice.

The fence should be flat, my unisaw fence has the same behaviour but less pronounced, looking forward for solutions.

PJ

- ThomasChippendale
I t was not advice it is a fact, and if cutting a taller piece it will contact the other point at the top of the fence.
If you want a solution, call customer service at Delta, and dont whine here.

- conifur

Well, what about cutting a dado to length where the top edge of the dado is contacting the concave center of the fence and not the bottom or the top of that sorry curved fence?????

You have to be kidding me that a brand new saw with a fence that is cupped over its entire length is acceptable!

Back we go. Get a good one.

View conifur's profile

conifur

955 posts in 617 days


#7 posted 04-04-2016 12:36 AM


Thanks conifer for another bad advice.

The fence should be flat, my unisaw fence has the same behaviour but less pronounced, looking forward for solutions.

PJ

- ThomasChippendale
I t was not advice it is a fact, and if cutting a taller piece it will contact the other point at the top of the fence.
If you want a solution, call customer service at Delta, and dont whine here.

- conifur

Well, what about cutting a dado to length where the top edge of the dado is contacting the concave center of the fence and not the bottom or the top of that sorry curved fence?????

You have to be kidding me that a brand new saw with a fence that is cupped over its entire length is acceptable!

Back we go. Get a good one.

- Kazooman


Set a mark on the board to be dadoed and adjust accordingly, and I think you mean a rabbit not a dadoe

-- Knowledge and experience equals Wisdom, Michael Frankowski

View RibsBrisket4me's profile

RibsBrisket4me

1526 posts in 1971 days


#8 posted 04-04-2016 12:46 AM

Is there any way to shim the face of the fence on that model?

View jbay's profile

jbay

816 posts in 364 days


#9 posted 04-04-2016 12:57 AM

I would take it back and exchange it if I wasn’t happy with it.

I don’t have one so I can’t tell for sure, but maybe you could pull the caps off the end and fill it with a board to push it back out.

-- My “MO” involves Judging others, playing God, acting as LJs law enforcement, and never admitting any of my ideas could possibly be wrong or anyone else's idea could possibly be correct -- (A1Jim)

View hotbyte's profile

hotbyte

844 posts in 2441 days


#10 posted 04-04-2016 01:04 AM

Is face on other side straight? If so, can you swap them?

View Rick M's profile

Rick M

7923 posts in 1845 days


#11 posted 04-04-2016 01:07 AM

Mine is cupped a bit too, been using it going on 20 years and it has never made a difference. But if it bothers you, take it back. Yours is a little worse than mine. You could also flatten it like the sole of a plane.

-- http://thewoodknack.blogspot.com/

View jbay's profile

jbay

816 posts in 364 days


#12 posted 04-04-2016 01:12 AM

If your “bent” on keeping it you could also bondo it, flatten it, and add a pc of laminate to it, but it’s a lot of work compared to taking it back.

-- My “MO” involves Judging others, playing God, acting as LJs law enforcement, and never admitting any of my ideas could possibly be wrong or anyone else's idea could possibly be correct -- (A1Jim)

View Nubsnstubs's profile

Nubsnstubs

826 posts in 1195 days


#13 posted 04-04-2016 03:48 AM

The way light plays tricks on eyes, I’ll bet that gap that some posters are comparing to the Grand Canyon is less than .005”. That’s not enough to waste time on.. . What is the material that you’ve got the square up against? ............... Jerry (in Tucson)

-- Jerry (in Tucson)

View jacquesr's profile

jacquesr

339 posts in 888 days


#14 posted 04-04-2016 05:17 AM

Have the same saw. Same issue. They are all like that.
Not a major issue, except when you can rock the piece and screw the cut.
I removed both sides and put phenolic ply instead.

You can also use UHMW – but It might be not perfectly flat.

Knotscott suggestion (as always) is spot on.

View jeff's profile

jeff

988 posts in 2930 days


#15 posted 04-04-2016 05:32 AM

Probably wouldn’t let it bother you.Knotscott offers good advice.From your pic it looks like top and bottom of the fence looks ok though.

-- Jeff,Tucson,Az.

showing 1 through 15 of 22 replies

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