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Work sharp Question

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Forum topic by Joe posted 03-13-2010 04:25 PM 1038 views 1 time favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Joe

185 posts in 2118 days


03-13-2010 04:25 PM

Greeting all, I have been researching for the past month an easier way to sharpen my tools. I used float glass and sand paper with a MK II Veritas honing guide. That worked great but I wanted something faster and less time consuming, especially when I need to re-sharpen in the middle of a job. After reading everything I could find on the net two and three times. I went to WC to pick up a Tormek and left with a Work Sharp 3000. Not sure if I will post a review seeing how there are many reviews on it already. But here is a quickie “I love it”.

Now for the questions:
Do any of you that have the WS use the 6” DMT disks for it? Is there a good source to buy the sand paper for it? Seems a little steep that two 6” pieces of sand paper cost 15 bucks. I thought about cutting my own out and using spray adhesive to attach?? Any thoughts?

-- Senior Chief


8 replies so far

View WayneC's profile

WayneC

12300 posts in 2822 days


#1 posted 03-13-2010 04:32 PM

I’ve not tried it, but finding an alternative would be great. Also, make sure you have some of course paper for regrinding bevels. Using the approprate grits for the work your doing helps extend the life as well.

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

View greatview's profile

greatview

69 posts in 1882 days


#2 posted 03-13-2010 04:55 PM

i’m really curious as to why you selected the Work Sharp over the Tormek. I’ve been concerned about using a rotating surface to sharpen where the speed is dependent on your distance from the center. Doesn’t the outside remove material faster than the inside?

-- Tom, New London, NH

View Joe's profile

Joe

185 posts in 2118 days


#3 posted 03-13-2010 06:32 PM

I new that question was going to get asked. I never used a Tormek until the other day and it’s an outstanding sharpener and has tones of good reviews. I also got to use the WS for the first time. I always thought the WS was just a gimmick (not sure why), even after reading so many good reviews. This is why I changed my mind.

1. No water to deal with
2. Don’t really need to hollow grind my blades
3. When my tool gets dull just hit a few times with the WS and its razor sharp again
4. Small enough to sit on my bench ready to go
5. Money saved got me a Lie-Nielsen plane and Pax dovetail saw.

Bottom line:
I wanted to get something that would make a chisel/plane iron razor sharp and more importantly that I will “USE” and not have to go through a bunch of steps to sharpen a chisel in the middle of a project. The WS just seemed to fit the bill.

Doesn’t the outside remove material faster than the inside?
All I can tell you is that when you sharpen a 2”wide chisel, its flat, square and sharp. That’s all I need to know. Maybe someone can chime in for a better answer to your question.

-- Senior Chief

View degoose's profile

degoose

7049 posts in 2079 days


#4 posted 03-13-2010 10:44 PM

Good for you Senior Chief.
I got one a few months ago and wrote a review.. I will be doing a quick video on Worksharp 3000 system.. soon.
Just to show the perspective of a woodworker who uses it and because I now have a video camera and think that I am Ron Howard… we ARE the same age, you know.

-- Drink twice... and don't bother to cut... @ lazylarrywoodworks.com.au For lovers of all things timber...

View ondablade's profile

ondablade

105 posts in 1923 days


#5 posted 03-14-2010 02:14 AM

Imagine that the blade stays square because it’s placed on the sloped surface that’s square to the disc. Or uses the optional honing guide and support plate which also hold it square.

When the blade is held square the slowest honing part of the blade will determine the rate at which material is removed from the whole lot. In practice it probably equalises by removing the material more quickly from the the ‘fast’ side so that once that’s gone the ‘slow’ side ends up supporting the blade – it’ll strike a balance where it carries enough extra of the load on the slow side to compensate for the extra speed on the other.

It’d be different if you were honing the tool by holding it in your hand to apply equal pressure across the whole width – the absence of a honing guide to hold it square means there will be no reduction in pressure on the side that is losing material more quickly…

ian

-- Late awakener....

View JerryS's profile

JerryS

224 posts in 2335 days


#6 posted 03-14-2010 03:33 AM

For the courser grits I use 6” PSA from HF , you’ll need to cut the center out . I have a piece of tubing that size , ground on the end to create a punch . The paper hangs over the outside edge a little but I live with it . Use the crape stick to clean the paper that really helps for paper life. Pick up the leather hone wheel , I use that more then the paper . Once I get my edges sharp and defined I don’t go back to the sandpaper until I need to charge or redefine the edge . I use the leather honing wheel to get my edges sharp.

Those DMT plates look nice , I’ll pick them up when they go on sale , right now their a little too expensive .

View Joe's profile

Joe

185 posts in 2118 days


#7 posted 03-14-2010 02:19 PM

View Paul's profile

Paul

352 posts in 2314 days


#8 posted 03-14-2010 06:31 PM

No problem using the spray adhesive, I recommend the 3M Spray Mount #6065 and FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS on the can. It is more easily removable than the other sprays but hold securely. The main thing to watch out for is to let the adhesive dry before you put the paper on the glass surface, you’ll feel it tack up from a snotty feel to a tacky surface when it is ready to go. Also make sure to give it a generous coat, don’t skimp with it. I use this also to apply sandpaper to my disk sander and it seem to work well.
You can find the 6065 at artist supply stores or online, just google it. For the workshop make sure to do all this is a dust free area as any dust mixed it will give you a ‘bump’ it the applied sandpaper, never a good thing when sharpening.
Any adhesive residue left behind can be cleaned up with lighter fluid or a commercial adhesive cleaner.

-- If you say 'It's good enough', it probably isn't.

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