Work sharp Question

I’ve not tried it, but finding an alternative would be great. Also, make sure you have some of course paper for regrinding bevels. Using the approprate grits for the work your doing helps extend the life as well.

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

i’m really curious as to why you selected the Work Sharp over the Tormek. I’ve been concerned about using a rotating surface to sharpen where the speed is dependent on your distance from the center. Doesn’t the outside remove material faster than the inside?

-- Tom, New London, NH

I new that question was going to get asked. I never used a Tormek until the other day and it’s an outstanding sharpener and has tones of good reviews. I also got to use the WS for the first time. I always thought the WS was just a gimmick (not sure why), even after reading so many good reviews. This is why I changed my mind.

1. No water to deal with
2. Don’t really need to hollow grind my blades
3. When my tool gets dull just hit a few times with the WS and its razor sharp again
4. Small enough to sit on my bench ready to go
5. Money saved got me a Lie-Nielsen plane and Pax dovetail saw.

Bottom line:
I wanted to get something that would make a chisel/plane iron razor sharp and more importantly that I will “USE” and not have to go through a bunch of steps to sharpen a chisel in the middle of a project. The WS just seemed to fit the bill.

Doesn’t the outside remove material faster than the inside?
All I can tell you is that when you sharpen a 2”wide chisel, its flat, square and sharp. That’s all I need to know. Maybe someone can chime in for a better answer to your question.

-- Senior Chief

Good for you Senior Chief.
I got one a few months ago and wrote a review.. I will be doing a quick video on Worksharp 3000 system.. soon.
Just to show the perspective of a woodworker who uses it and because I now have a video camera and think that I am Ron Howard… we ARE the same age, you know.

-- Drink twice... and don't bother to cut... @ larrysworkshop.wordpress.com For lovers of all things timber...

Imagine that the blade stays square because it’s placed on the sloped surface that’s square to the disc. Or uses the optional honing guide and support plate which also hold it square.

When the blade is held square the slowest honing part of the blade will determine the rate at which material is removed from the whole lot. In practice it probably equalises by removing the material more quickly from the the ‘fast’ side so that once that’s gone the ‘slow’ side ends up supporting the blade – it’ll strike a balance where it carries enough extra of the load on the slow side to compensate for the extra speed on the other.

It’d be different if you were honing the tool by holding it in your hand to apply equal pressure across the whole width – the absence of a honing guide to hold it square means there will be no reduction in pressure on the side that is losing material more quickly…

ian

-- Late awakener....

For the courser grits I use 6” PSA from HF , you’ll need to cut the center out . I have a piece of tubing that size , ground on the end to create a punch . The paper hangs over the outside edge a little but I live with it . Use the crape stick to clean the paper that really helps for paper life. Pick up the leather hone wheel , I use that more then the paper . Once I get my edges sharp and defined I don’t go back to the sandpaper until I need to charge or redefine the edge . I use the leather honing wheel to get my edges sharp.

Those DMT plates look nice , I’ll pick them up when they go on sale , right now their a little too expensive .

After digging around I found some sandpaper for the WS here. Good price…

http://www.woodworkingshop.com/cgi-bin/F1DE9B21/mac/additmdtl.mac/showItemDetail?item=SD06199&qtyA=0&phsO=N&desc=6%22X1%2F2%22%20CENTER%20HOLE%20STEARATE%20PSA%2025PK&drpshp=N&alOrd=Y&iQty=.000&oQty=.000&initQty=1&assortParent=K&itemForSale=Y&styleName=&fixD=&face=.00&gftc=&stck=Y&prefS=&calledFrom=DS&ordInfo1=&ordInfo2=&ordInfo3=&ordMan1=N&ordMan2=N&ordMan3=N&persCode=&persReqd=&persLink= &shipRemaining=0&daysBetween=0&daysBetweenFix=0&monthsBetween=0

-- Senior Chief

No problem using the spray adhesive, I recommend the 3M Spray Mount #6065 and FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS on the can. It is more easily removable than the other sprays but hold securely. The main thing to watch out for is to let the adhesive dry before you put the paper on the glass surface, you’ll feel it tack up from a snotty feel to a tacky surface when it is ready to go. Also make sure to give it a generous coat, don’t skimp with it. I use this also to apply sandpaper to my disk sander and it seem to work well.
You can find the 6065 at artist supply stores or online, just google it. For the workshop make sure to do all this is a dust free area as any dust mixed it will give you a ‘bump’ it the applied sandpaper, never a good thing when sharpening.
Any adhesive residue left behind can be cleaned up with lighter fluid or a commercial adhesive cleaner.

-- If you say 'It's good enough', it probably isn't.