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Delta unisaw rebuild hit snafoo

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Forum topic by Omar157 posted 03-28-2016 03:30 PM 1220 views 0 times favorited 35 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Omar157

49 posts in 298 days


03-28-2016 03:30 PM

Hello gents
I have been rebuilding an 87 unisaw for the last couple of weeks and am down to the wire. I went to square off my blade and I just cannot the blade 90 degrees. I spin the wheel as far as it goes until it bottoms out and it seems if I could just spin it a 1/4 turn more the blade would be in position. The blade is dead flat and I pulled out the stop bolt used to adjust the saw blade so it’s neither of those. I also used 4 different squares assuring they are dead square and a digital angle gauge. I covered all of my bases and am hoping you guys have a trick to solve this. Thanks


35 replies so far

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

3951 posts in 1961 days


#1 posted 03-28-2016 03:37 PM

I’m guessing you removed the table from the cabinet? If yes, were there some “washers in each (or any corner) of the table? Again, if yes, those washers were shims and needed to be put back into the same spot they came from. The thing is, I’m not sure how you go about solving the problem, it may be as simple as shimming one side, but I’d bet it’s a little more complicated than that…someone with the real poop on it will be along.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

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cutmantom

389 posts in 2503 days


#2 posted 03-28-2016 03:49 PM

Check for saw dust build up

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

4247 posts in 1667 days


#3 posted 03-28-2016 04:01 PM

If you removed the 90 degree stop bolt, it should go well past 90… so you are hanging up on something and need to figure out where. I’d check your guide block first, and make sure it’s not hitting anything.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

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Omar157

49 posts in 298 days


#4 posted 03-28-2016 04:16 PM

Thanks for the quick replys. I did remove the top but there were no shims that I can remember. I didn’t think about that. I guess if I use some washers on the right side of the saw I can definitely raise it enough to cause some negative camber. I pulled the top off for nothing. The inside of the saw was in pristine condition. Very little rust except for the saw floor which had some sawdust that was there for a long time and it caused some surface rust. I took advantage and removed all traces of rust by sanding and painting the inside. The saw is completely clean so it not that. I thought the same thing when I yanked the bolt. I figured once out the blade should travel a bit passed 90 but it doesn’t. Is that guide block adjustable?

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MrUnix

4247 posts in 1667 days


#5 posted 03-28-2016 04:21 PM

Most Unisaws don’t have any shims, and I doubt that would cause your problem anyway. And yes, the guide block is adjustable. Loosen the large bolt and it will slide side to side and pivot slightly). You should be able to determine where the arbor bracket is being stopped pretty easily just by looking while cranking the tilt wheel.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

View TheFridge's profile

TheFridge

5765 posts in 954 days


#6 posted 03-28-2016 04:22 PM

That cast iron block doesn’t have anything to do with it. I’m pretty sure it was the bolt head in the background.

So to be clear. you pulled the bolt for the 90 stop completely out?

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

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Omar157

49 posts in 298 days


#7 posted 03-28-2016 04:54 PM

Yes I pulled th 90 stop completely out. I just checked the block to see if it was hitting anywhere but when I bottom out the guide is clear and not hitting anything

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MrUnix

4247 posts in 1667 days


#8 posted 03-28-2016 05:03 PM

Yes I pulled th 90 stop completely out. I just checked the block to see if it was hitting anywhere but when I bottom out the guide is clear and not hitting anything
- Omar157

Gotta be hitting on something to stop it… is it hitting on the cast iron part where the stop bolt used to be? On mine, that bolt sticks out a good half inch or so, which if removed, would allow it to go well past 90 degrees. Get up in there with a flashlight and find out where it’s stopping – or better yet, yank the table top to get a better look.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

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TheFridge

5765 posts in 954 days


#9 posted 03-28-2016 05:18 PM

Yeah. Sounds like it’s time to yank the top off

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

View splintergroup's profile

splintergroup

832 posts in 690 days


#10 posted 03-28-2016 06:04 PM

As to the shims, they are critical to what is called the “instant center” of the tilt mechanism.

Ideally as you tilt the blade, the cutting distance (from the fence) at the point where the blade meets the table surface should not change.
Aside from this and not to imply you are doing anything wrong, did you get the 90 deg. stop and not the 45 deg stop?

It has to be something insanely simple!

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Omar157

49 posts in 298 days


#11 posted 03-28-2016 08:56 PM

Yeah. The 90 stop is the one by the motor. When I get back tonight I’m gonna get in there with a flashlight. If not the top is coming off and I’m gonna try the shims if I don’t see the problem. The shim really sounds like it’s promising

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

4247 posts in 1667 days


#12 posted 03-28-2016 09:02 PM

Yeah. The 90 stop is the one by the motor. When I get back tonight I m gonna get in there with a flashlight. If not the top is coming off and I m gonna try the shims if I don t see the problem. The shim really sounds like it s promising
- Omar157

I wouldn’t add any shims, it will throw your table out of plane with the trunnions and cause you problems with front to back alignment when tilted (which is the only reason they are used, and only if needed – which is rare).

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

View Holbs's profile

Holbs

1383 posts in 1497 days


#13 posted 03-29-2016 01:47 AM

MrUnix speaks wise words, when it comes to Unisaws. Helped me alot with my rebuild. My 1997 came with NO table top shims, as none were needed.

-- Yes, my profile picture is of a Carpenter Bee! The name is derived from the Ancient Greek "wood-cutter"

View FancyShoes's profile

FancyShoes

509 posts in 832 days


#14 posted 03-29-2016 02:24 AM

Check the wiring, maybe the wiring is to short, is it an original motor? We need pics as well,

could be your crank washers that holds the rods in one spot could be off causing the rods to stop spinning before completely getting the the end of the swing. Thos are round, and have 2 set screws a piece, I have seem where they start backing out and hit or even chip the trunion gears.

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MrUnix

4247 posts in 1667 days


#15 posted 03-29-2016 02:46 AM

could be your crank washers that holds the rods in one spot could be off causing the rods to stop spinning before completely getting the the end of the swing. Thos are round, and have 2 set screws a piece, I have seem where they start backing out and hit or even chip the trunion gears.
- FancyShoes

Huh? The worm gear, as well as the retaining collar used on the blade tilt rod don’t have any set screws… they are fixed in place with either a single spring pin each, or on older saws, tapered pins. What ‘crank washers’ are you talking about?

(Blade tilt rod is the short one. Blade height rod is the longer one)

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

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