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Smoothing pine knots, interior painting

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Forum topic by uMinded posted 03-25-2016 09:38 PM 603 views 0 times favorited 7 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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uMinded

104 posts in 1312 days


03-25-2016 09:38 PM

I put pine as my basement window casings but their was no 12” clear boards so their are a few knotts. As far as I know there is only one way to really cover them up: (I want a smooth white matt finish on the whole casing)

1) Power sand the knot into a dimple, do not push or it may come loose
2) Fill with drywall compound or wood filler
3) Smooth out wood fill and fill any gaps, sand again
4) Paint with a stain blocking primer
5) Sand 220 between coats of paint
6) Apply 2-3 coats of paint

Did I miss anything crucial? A finishing carpenter recommended I massage silicone onto the knot once sanded to seal it and then cover it with drywall compound and that it would never bleed but I’m weary of trying new things.


7 replies so far

View OSU55's profile

OSU55

1056 posts in 1449 days


#1 posted 03-26-2016 01:09 PM

Looks like a good schedule. I would use Zinsser® B-I-N® Advanced Synthetic Shellac Primer White for #4. It could also be used after step 1, before filling. No need for silicone.

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TheWoodenOyster

1275 posts in 1395 days


#2 posted 03-26-2016 01:33 PM

I had pine knots showing thru my cabinets in the kitchen real bad. When primed with Kilz, they showed thru again within an hour. We ended up just sanding and using a product called Seal Lock as recommended by the paint guru at Sherwin Williams. Worked like a charm. Been 9 months and nothing showing thru.

-- The Wood Is Your Oyster

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uMinded

104 posts in 1312 days


#3 posted 03-27-2016 12:57 AM

Well I just prepped two window sills so I will report how well it works out tomorrow. I got “Zinnser Bin Primer” in a red can from the box store, says shellac base white primer so it should be the one I am after.

While looking for the primer I found this awesome posting on painting pine/mdf for ultra smooth finishes.

View MadMark's profile

MadMark

976 posts in 912 days


#4 posted 03-27-2016 02:36 AM

... use ‘paint grade’ poplar next time …

M

-- Madmark - Madmark2150@yahoo.com Wiretreefarm.com

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uMinded

104 posts in 1312 days


#5 posted 03-27-2016 06:08 AM

I used clear/select and 5-6 thumb sized knots on a 1×12x8’ board is pretty darn good. Its easy to get clear up to 1×8 but any wider and the price triples at least.

I have a 7’ x 2’ window to trim in my basement and knot free 1×12 would have cost over $120 but with a little extra work clear/select was $28 + $25 paint so im still way under.

View AlaskaGuy's profile

AlaskaGuy

2406 posts in 1769 days


#6 posted 03-27-2016 06:24 AM



... use paint grade poplar next time …

M

- MadMark

I’v been looking all over and can’t find any “paint grade’’ poplar. All I can find are the grades listed under the hardwood grading rules. Where do you find the paint grade poplar?

Link to lumber grades

http://www.esf.edu/wus/documents/IllustratedGradingGuide.pdf

-- Alaskan's for Global warming!

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uMinded

104 posts in 1312 days


#7 posted 03-27-2016 03:58 PM


I v been looking all over and can t find any “paint grade poplar. All I can find are the grades listed under the hardwood grading rules. Where do you find the paint grade poplar?

Windsor Plywood has rough Poplar and S4S (1C) Poplar but in Saskatchewan Poplar is outrageously expensive. Poplar and Fir are more then walnut and mahogany locally for me… The best prices for Pine are HomeDepot but you need to wade through half a hundred boards to find a good one. I usually find “FAS” or ”<2a> in the same pile. Windsor has FAS & 1C Pine but you pay for it as I mentioned above.

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