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Jointer kickback?

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Forum topic by trevor7428 posted 03-23-2016 04:32 PM 1037 views 0 times favorited 28 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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trevor7428

149 posts in 425 days


03-23-2016 04:32 PM

So I just purchased my first jointer. Jet 6in.
I’m just wondering is it possible to get back on a jointer, if so how? Have any have or have-not had kickback with your jointer?

-- Thank You Trevor OBrion


28 replies so far

View KYSean's profile

KYSean

106 posts in 3060 days


#1 posted 03-23-2016 04:41 PM

Only by feeding it with no down pressure at all.

-- http://editedwrite.com

View CB_Cohick's profile

CB_Cohick

460 posts in 715 days


#2 posted 03-23-2016 04:46 PM

I have not had it happen, but feeding against the grain, and as KYSean suggests not keeping enough downward pressure on the workpiece could lead to kickback.

-- Chris - Would work, but I'm too busy reading about woodwork.

View AZWoody's profile

AZWoody

693 posts in 688 days


#3 posted 03-23-2016 04:50 PM

Also trying to take too much a bite can increase the risk as well.

View nerdbot's profile

nerdbot

97 posts in 825 days


#4 posted 03-23-2016 04:50 PM

I had kickback by having too much downward pressure and not feed forward properly. The push pads that came with my (used) jointer had no grip at all, so I had to put significant downward pressure and it was very difficult to push forward. That’s when I experienced a little kickback – though it was more like gouging than kickback. Using proper push pads (on a properly tuned jointer) where I only need minimal downward pressure, I’ve had no problems.

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cdaniels

1311 posts in 965 days


#5 posted 03-23-2016 04:58 PM

I’ll put myself out there as an ameteur, I was squaring up a 6” block on my jointer one day and didn’t realize that I had the endgrain pointed down. tried running that through and felt like it bout snapped my arm in half. Obvious mistake but I think it counts!

-- Jesus was a carpenter... I'm just saying

View pmayer's profile

pmayer

864 posts in 2529 days


#6 posted 03-23-2016 05:14 PM

If the work piece is too short this can definitely happen. Anything shorter than 12” becomes risky.

-- PaulMayer, http://www.vernswoodgoods.com

View conifur's profile

conifur

955 posts in 616 days


#7 posted 03-23-2016 05:22 PM

If the work piece is too short this can definitely happen.
Why would that make a difference all else being equal?

-- Knowledge and experience equals Wisdom, Michael Frankowski

View CharlesA's profile

CharlesA

3022 posts in 1262 days


#8 posted 03-23-2016 05:23 PM



Also trying to take too much a bite can increase the risk as well.

- AZWoody

I thought this too until I started using my jointer for making tapered legs, taking 3/8” off in each pass. It works remarkably well, although I’m always nervous when I do it. I have found that the Grr-Ripp Blocks give me a lot more control.

-- "Man is the only animal which devours his own, for I can apply no milder term to the general prey of the rich on the poor." ~Thomas Jefferson

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Pezking7p

3097 posts in 1115 days


#9 posted 03-23-2016 05:28 PM



If the work piece is too short this can definitely happen.
Why would that make a difference all else being equal?

- conifur

Because the cutter head area is open and the piece does not get the support it needs. You end up just feeding the piece downwards into the cutter head and it does not like that.

-- -Dan

View nerdbot's profile

nerdbot

97 posts in 825 days


#10 posted 03-23-2016 06:25 PM



If the work piece is too short this can definitely happen. Anything shorter than 12” becomes risky.

- pmayer

Yeah, I think that was my other problem with my first use. I was just running test pieces and they were pretty short, shy of a foot if I recall correctly.

View trevor7428's profile

trevor7428

149 posts in 425 days


#11 posted 03-23-2016 07:04 PM


If the work piece is too short this can definitely happen.
Why would that make a difference all else being equal?

- conifur

Because the cutter head area is open and the piece does not get the support it needs. You end up just feeding the piece downwards into the cutter head and it does not like that.

- Pezking7p

Even if you start with pressure on right hand down (just at first) with no downward pressure with left hand (infeed side only) then once the short piece gets to the outfeed table, switch with all the pressure with left hand on outfeed table and only use right to push.

Would this still be feeding the piece downwards into the cutter head?

(I don’t really understand why you can’t run shorter than 12” either) just no you shouldn’t do it, but I want to know can it be done… safely?

-- Thank You Trevor OBrion

View conifur's profile

conifur

955 posts in 616 days


#12 posted 03-23-2016 07:07 PM

I have run as short as 8”, just have to make sure it stays flat on the tables.

-- Knowledge and experience equals Wisdom, Michael Frankowski

View pmayer's profile

pmayer

864 posts in 2529 days


#13 posted 03-23-2016 08:10 PM

The actual safe stock length for a given jointer depends on the size of the opening for the cutterhead. It’s really just a matter of having enough length of board supported by the infeed table to keep the board stabilized. As the bed surface that is supporting the work piece becomes shorter, the percentage of board that is over the cutterhead increases compared to that which is supported by the table. The shorter the board, the higher percentage you have “resting” on the cutterhead, and the more tippy the board becomes. That’s when it tips into the cutterhead it kicks back.

An experienced user, if paying close attention, can probably joint 8” stock without incident “most of the time”, but the chances of a kickback are still much higher than with a 12”+ board. I’ve occasionally jointed stock that short, but I would not advise someone who is just learning to attempt it. When I have to joint a shorter piece of stock, I pull out a hand plane. You can joint an 8” board pretty easily, even with a #4 plane.

-- PaulMayer, http://www.vernswoodgoods.com

View teejk02's profile

teejk02

424 posts in 589 days


#14 posted 03-23-2016 09:00 PM

Short pieces can be done with push-pads…just plan on getting the shallowest cut you can get and repeat (and repeat). Biggest drawback is the tendency to “taper” the board but with shallow passes I’ve never seen a problem with flipping the board head to tail. On my Delta 6” I learned to do that same thing even on longer stock once the really cupped surface is removed. And another thing…keep your tables and fence “slick” (I use Johnson’s paste wax)...”drag” is a safety hazard I think.

View Deaner's profile

Deaner

42 posts in 1550 days


#15 posted 03-23-2016 09:16 PM

3/8’s of an inch Charles…on each pass?? I can’t imagine. Not being critical, just awed:)

Having the sharpest knives possible helps…that and shallow passes. I try to keep my depth around 3/16’s if I have a flat enough board to catch the whole surface, and allow a little extra time for the added passes.

I might try a 3/8” pass tonight, if I can muster the nerve. I’m sure the machine has to be a bit bigger with more HP.

-- Once harm is done, even a fool understands it.

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