Hand Planes

Actually, I don’t think any one plane will do it. It sorta needs a set. #4, #5, #7. Each is used for a different task. Your low angle block is part of the set as well. I would say your next plane should be a #5. A jack is a very versatile plane and can be used almost for a jointer and smoother. I always suggest E-Bay and learn to tune on Stanley’s.

-- Thos. Angle, Jordan Valley, Oregon

Garrett Hack recently wrote an article in Fine Woodworking about what planes he considered most important. Here is the list in priority order:

1) #4 bench plane
2) Adjustable block plane #60 1/2
3) Jointer plane #7
4) Shoulder plane
5) Smoothing plane (Typically #4 1/2)
6) Spokeshave
7) 2nd block plane for rougher work
8) Small router plane

I personally find the smoothing plane #4 1/2, block plane, and shoulder plane very useful.

-- Roger - Havertown, Pennsylvania

rjack – Thanks for the response, I did find that article on Finewoodoworking.com

ebanista – I noticed the Veritas bevel plane and I was wondering what the advantage of the bevel up planes were. Why did you buy the bevel up rather than the regualr plane?

ebanista – Thanks again, I read the tool review and it sounds like the bevel up plane is the tool to have. I was wondering, why or when would you buy a traditional smoother?

ebanista – Thanks for the additional information, it is greatly appreciated.

Trevor,

My second plane was a Veritas Jointer plane (low angle). In my opinion, if you are strong enough and willing to use it, it can replace a #4,#5 and #6 easily. Only on pieces of wood 6” or smaller (when you block plane will do) it is too large. I think the main reason they had so many planes in the old days is becouse the plane mouth was not adjustable. You need then a smoothing plane, a roughing plane, a jointer plane, etc. The Veritas plane has an adjustable mouth. Since the blade sits with the bevel up, changing the bevel angle changes the effective cutting angle. Purchase multiple blades and the same plane can behave like diferent planes with different frog angles. The only reason why I’m considering purchasing a smoothing plane is to have them side by side and have the Jointer plane set to a larger cut. Now I readjust the depth of cut on the large plane (takes few seconds).

In between my block plane and Jointer plane I can do most things I want. I bought some old planes (one #4 and one #5). They are preaty good but I still prefere the Veritas Jointer (have not touched the others for one year).

Alin

-- -- Alin Dobra, Gainesville, Florida

Francisco, perhaps it is a matter of choice. I tend to use my #4’s most then the #5 and the #7 in it’s place. Everyone will find his own way when using tools.

-- Thos. Angle, Jordan Valley, Oregon

The priority case has been overstated a bit in referencing Garrett Hack’s article in FWW. First, Garrett uses the words ”...rough order of importance”. Secondly, Garrett is a dear friend and I know that, while he believes that every woodworker starting to use handtools should begin with a No. 4, the other tools are greatly variable depending on what kind of work you are to be doing: thus the rendering “rough order”.

-- -Scott, Wildwood, GA

I’m a hand plane junkie but by no means an expert. I have dozens of hand planes and keep on buying them, it is sort of an addiction.

By far the 3 most useful planes, for me, are my #4, #5, and a stanley low angle block plane. I have several smoothers, basically number 4s, from different makers, and actually prefer the antique 1858 Auburn Tool Co. coffin smoother to all of the other smoothers, including the LN #4 and the Knight japanese style smoother.

Sometimes I just spend an hour using the smoothers on practice wood because I find it so enjoyable.

I have a Stanley 78 that I use for shoulder work, even though I also have a LV shoulder plane. The shoulder plane is a valuable tool, I’d put it at number 4.

Overall though, the jack (#5), the smoother, and the block plane are my 3 choices. I might use the jointer for table tops too wide for the planer, but I also might use the belt sander.

-- Just another woodworker

Thanks for all of the feedback this certainly give many different points of to consider.

What is your need? or what have you been frustrated by that is lacking in your low angle block plane?

-- Knoxy for short

http://www.lie-nielsen.com/catalog.php?sku=62

LN suggests this answer on their FAQ page:

. I want to purchase a plane but don’t know where to start, what are your suggestions?

The single most useful tool is a low angle block plane. We have several, and any of them would be used every day in the shop. Next, I would consider our Low Angle Jack Plane. It is a very versatile tool, and in many peoples hands it can double as a smoothing plane. I t is also a unique tool with no other equivalent. With those two tools you can do a lot of work. Third, I might like a dedicated Smoothing Plane.

-- Ciao, gth.

it really depends on your array of tools at your disposal – for example, if you don’t have a jointer/planer – then a jointer plane should be your first pick, as it will let you square/parallel your rough stock – which is the beginning of each project, and to finish – you could get by with sanders/etc. if you do have a jointer/planer, but need a way to prepare your pieces for finishing – then your first pick should be a #4 smoothing plane…

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

The lists above are very good place to start, I have started my ventures down this path myself, I am very much looking forward to going to the Lie-Nielsen Hand Tool event on Friday.

-- //FC - Round Rock, TX - "Experience is what you get just after you need it"

I have several “antique” Stanley planes, which I haven’t got around to tuning up yet. I mostly use a hand plane and winding sticks to true up rough stock before putting it through the planer. Last year I purchased a Clifton #5 jack plane from Highland Woodworking. What a beautiful tool, and ready to go right out of the box.

-- "Heaven is North of the Bridge"