|Forum topic by luthierwnc||posted 03-23-2016 01:32 AM||1085 views||1 time favorited||9 replies|
03-23-2016 01:32 AM
When I first joined LJ a few months ago I wondered in my introductory post if anyone had built their own low angle shooting plane. I didn’t give up on the idea and tonight I had a very successful test of the prototype. Since there will probably only be one, I’m sure the collector value is already soaring.
This is a Sargent 414 body I got on Ebay. After some halting attempts to mill the frog base myself I took it to a local machine shop and had them mill a 12 degree bevel indexed off the back of the mouth. Then I marked where the blade would go and drilled two holes through both sides of the body for a pair of drill rods. The one towards the back is where the iron rests. The front one is the fulcrum for the lever cap.
There are also two tapped holes alongside the iron near the mouth for set screws to adjust and hold the iron exactly in place. I may put them in later for fine adjustments but the lever cap crushes any resistance out of blade movement. The cap itself is a piece of 1/4” brass that I routed a groove in to mate with the cross rod. I used a stainless steel thumbscrew to apply pressure.
The tote is three pieces of 1/2” sapele. The grain on the two outside pieces runs parallel to the base and the center piece is 90 degrees off that for stability. You can see from the handle shot that it leans towards the right. My plan is to use this as a shooting plane for guitar backs and tops and I’m hoping this design will help me keep from skinning my knuckles. It isn’t so extreme that it is uncomfortable to use upright. The knob is repurposed from a Fulton 7809.
Not shown; I took some test passes on a piece of red oak and it works great. Well, at least as well as a regular plane. It might be a while before I start a new acoustic guitar. That will be the acid test. The iron is a piece of 3/16” O1 steel sharpened to a 25 degree bevel with a slight microbevel giving me a 38 degree attack angle. I heated it with a pair of torches and quenched it in motor oil. Half an hour in the oven at 375 degrees for a nice straw color and it was still hard enough to hold a good edge. Only about 1” is hardened and tempered. That’s a lot of steel to get hot without better gear.
There is still some finish work to do polishing the brass and fine tuning but so far, this one is a keeper. The machine shop charged me $25, the body was seven bucks plus shipping. The brass I had and the thumbscrew wasn’t much. So this is a very inexpensive project compared to the undeniably better-made Stanley or Lie-Nielsen offerings. Still, I do this for fun and had a good time.
Hope you like and feel free to contact me if you need more pictures or information, sh