Bandsaw blade help....

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Forum topic by Buildcode posted 03-21-2016 12:01 PM 647 views 0 times favorited 3 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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3 posts in 793 days

03-21-2016 12:01 PM

Topic tags/keywords: bandsaw blade help question

Hello all, this is my first post, I have been enjoying this site for a long time. I have just bought my first bandsaw, a Laguna 14-12. It came with a resaw blade. I have never put on a blade before and the directions are not the greatest. Does anyone know of any how2 videos out there for help or any advise to give. Thanks so much in advance.

-- Peter J McLaughlin

3 replies so far

View pmayer's profile


1028 posts in 3061 days

#1 posted 03-21-2016 01:59 PM

Hi Buildcode,

It is pretty straightforward to install the blade on that bandsaw. The trickier part is getting the guides set properly, which is not tricky after you know how to do it, its just different. I just set one of these up at my Dad’s shop yesterday and walked through this with him so it is all reasonably fresh in my mind. To install the blade:

- I’d recommend removing the table for the first time that you do this, so that you can see what you are doing as you set up the lower guides. In the future you won’t have to do this.

- Lower the blade tension arm in the rear of the saw.

- Open the guides up and slide them back.

- Open upper and lower doors.

- Open the red blade guard. It just has a magnetic catch so it flips open easily.

- Slide the blade into position onto the wheels. It should go on pretty easily.

- Put the tension are lever up.

- Rotate the wheels and be sure that the blade is tracking properly. If your blade is 1/2”, then try to align the bottom of the gullets with the center of the wheel. You said that it was a resaw blade, so if it is a Resaw King blade from Laguna, then that is a 3/4” blade for that saw, and your best bet is to center the blade on the wheel. Aligning the gullet bottoms to the center will put the blade too far off the rear of the saw.

- To adjust the blade tracking, use the wheel adjustment behind the upper wheel on the back of the saw. Only turn the wheels by hand. Do not power on the saw at this point. Make very small adjustments and rotate the wheel. Lock the adjustment wheel in tight when the blade tracks where you want it.

- Tension the blade. With the guides still wide open and slide back from the blade, power up the saw. If the blade is not fluttering, loosen the tension until it visibily flutters while running. Then tighten it just to the point where it stops fluttering and runs true. If you look at the blade from directly in front of it, it should look like a crisp line, and not a blurry wide blade, as it is running.

- Set your tension indicator. This saw has a magnetic indicator that shows where the blade tension is set to, based on the thickness of the blade. This can be a confusing feature for people, because they assume that it is set at the factory, when in fact is is not. The idea is to get your blade properly tensioned, then use set this indicator so that you can use it as a “cheat sheet” the next time you set up a blade on your saw. To do this, put the magnet behind the tension indicator needle so that it directly aligns with the blade size that you are using. For example, if your blade is a 1/2” blade, then position the magnetic sign behind the needle so that the needle is directly in the middle of the 1/2” range. Then, the next time you set up a blade, you shouldn’t have the use the flutter test. It should just work when you tension it up to the 1/2” setting on the indicator. I found this to work quite well on my 1412.

- Set up your guides. Start by aligning the rear ceramic guides to the blade. Slide these forward until they just barely make contact with the blade. They should not flex the blade forward, and the blade should still spin freely and easily. Get down to eye level with each guide and ensure that the blade is exactly in the center of the rear guide. This is very important.

- After both top and bottom rear guides are positioned, slide each side guide to the blade, just barely making contact. Again, do not flex the blade when you adjust these; just make contact. Set all four side guides, and check again that your blade spins easily by hand. If it is too tight, loosen guides one at a time to determine where you are bound. Take your time on setting these up. If you set them up carefully, they will stay set up for a long time.

- Install your table. After the table is in place and the trunnions are attached, don’t forget to install the bolt on the side that aligns the blade slot.

- After a bit of use, examine the guides. If they are no longer in contact with the blade, make the necessary adjustments.

- Keep an eye on the ceramic inserts in those guides. I’ve had them pop out 4-5 times in the 2 years that I’ve been using the 1412. Don’t let them get sucked up in your dust collector. They are easy to glue back in using super glue, and really expensive to replace if you can’t find them.

Good luck!

-- PaulMayer,

View bbasiaga's profile


1232 posts in 1991 days

#2 posted 03-21-2016 02:13 PM

Go to YouTube and search on Snodgrass bandsaw set up. He tells and shows you exactly what to do. Turned set up in to a 5 min or less activity for me.

-- Part of engineering is to know when to put your calculator down and pick up your tools.

View Buildcode's profile


3 posts in 793 days

#3 posted 03-21-2016 09:56 PM

Wow. Thanks so much. I saw the video, I really enjoyed it and learned allot. Paul thanks so much for taking the time to write such a detailed answer. I am in FL visiting my mother I will coming home to Boston on Tuesday night and can not wait to give it a try.
I have been a building inspector and building code teacher for over 30 years. It is sometimes hard for me to ask for help. I am use to giving advice and not asking for it.
So again thanks for taking the time.

-- Peter J McLaughlin

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