New air compressor opinions and info

  • Advertise with us

« back to Power Tools, Hardware and Accessories forum

Forum topic by xcalibr1 posted 03-06-2010 01:17 AM 1474 views 0 times favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View xcalibr1's profile


26 posts in 3469 days

03-06-2010 01:17 AM

I just ordered my new air compressor from Sears. Here is the link to it….

It puts out 13.3 SCFM at 100 PSI and has an 80 gal. tank and 5.4 HP (running) motor. I think I got it for a heck of a good price. Its a $1049 plus tax compressor that I bought for $721 with tax with all the discounts and such. Looks like it got pretty good reviews from a few people who purchased it unlike the 60 gal. unit they have that apparently blows head gaskets. What do you guys think on the specs? Should it easily handle my needs? I have 2 garage bays in addition to the woodshop and there will be a sandblast cabinet and other tools such as an air impact in use at times. But I am one person and basically it would only ever be a rare ocassion where 2 people are using air. I do use a PC 6” orbital air sander as well. The SCFM rating seems to be lower than the more expensive 80 gal units but this one had the most SCFMs of most in the $1k range plus I paid alot less than that. The compressor will also be installed in the 12×12 addition on the end of the workshop so that the noise isnt in the main area. That shed is unheated. Does that pose any problems? I have drywall and insulation in the shed but no heat. So it does get cold in there in the winter and Im sure hot in the summer. I plan on piping from the compressor right thru the adjoining wall into the woodshop where it will have a decent sized moisture trap before it feeds the shop and then onto the garage areas. At this point I plan on using copper piping for the air lines.

Any helpful info would be appreciated. The compressor should show up in about 2 weeks. That is the last big piece of equipment I need for the shop. Just waiting for warm weather.

8 replies so far

View davidpettinger's profile


661 posts in 3440 days

#1 posted 03-06-2010 02:39 AM

My son has a similar compressor in his shop. He used PVC for the piping. He avoid metal piping because of the temp fluctuations. Also, much easier and faster to modify or add on. The white PVC Schedule 40 made it real easy and inexpensive to do. My son is a off-road enthusiast and his compressor runs all the time in a garage that is heated with space heaters.

-- Methods are many,Principles are few.Methods change often,Principles never do.

View xcalibr1's profile


26 posts in 3469 days

#2 posted 03-06-2010 02:46 AM

I find myself putting more faith in good solid copper over plastic pipe. I guess this comes from the years I worked in HVAC. I have seen PVC get brittle and crack. But really, right now, what I use for the piping is the least of my worries. I just ordered a nice DeVilbiss HAR-602 filter/water trap as the main filter unit. This will mount right on the wall of my woodshop as the air source comes thru the adjoining wall. Plus this unit also has a regulated air port to use in the woodshop.

View davidpettinger's profile


661 posts in 3440 days

#3 posted 03-06-2010 03:23 AM

One other thing, Get yourself some butyl rubber roofing material about 1/4 inch thick and cut it into squares big enough to fit under the feet of the tank. You will be surprised at the amount of noise reduction that will occur by isolating the tank from the floor.

-- Methods are many,Principles are few.Methods change often,Principles never do.

View wisno's profile


88 posts in 3251 days

#4 posted 03-06-2010 10:34 AM

When you buy a big equipment such a compressor, you need to calculate first how much the volume air pressure you need for your workshop and how much psi of your tool specification. The consumption of air volume and air pressure you need should be written in your tools. After that you can make a rough calculation to find the specification of the compressor you need. Please consider that you will need electric power to run your compressor, so need to find the right specification.
But according to your explanation, the compressor should be enough to supply the compress air you need. The price is also good, you may need to check the guarantee and the after sales service, including the available spare part if you need to do repair.
For your reference you can view my article about compressor calculation for furniture finishing

good luck



View iamwelty's profile


260 posts in 3355 days

#5 posted 03-06-2010 03:09 PM

My experience with Craftsman compressors has been disappointing… IMO they are overpriced and equal in quality to the much cheaper brands such as Campbell Hausfield… So, I went cheap the last “compressor go around” and have been very pleased.

-- There is a fine line between eroticism and nausea...

View xcalibr1's profile


26 posts in 3469 days

#6 posted 03-06-2010 05:30 PM

For the price I got this compressor for Im willing to take a chance. Im sure the parts will be available for a few years and all the feedback on it was good. Like I mentioned before, the 60 gal apparently blows head gaskets so it had a bunch of bad reviews. But for $721 total price Im willing to chance it. If in a few years the compressor part goes bad or the motor they are always replaceable as a unit. Plus Im not a full-time woodworker or garage for that matter so its not gonna be used every day.

View Padre's profile


930 posts in 3729 days

#7 posted 03-06-2010 06:52 PM

I have a 3hp 60 gallon Kobalt compressor. Its specs are a little lower than yours. I have yet to use it to its full capacity: I’ve run a cutter, drill, blower, ratchet, chipper and other tools on it and it has kept up just great!!!

-- Chip ----------- 6:8

View Alexander's profile


194 posts in 3351 days

#8 posted 03-06-2010 07:04 PM

Look at moving air like moving water. From the street you have a large pipe and as you pipe the house for water the pipe size gets smaller as you get to the end of the run.

I would use a larger pipe from compress to shop or maybe to first outlet and then smaller. I used black pipe because I had it and because it is rated for the pressure. Copper and plastic pipe I don’t think are rated for 120lb that could be inuse. Black pipe also has the same thread as plumbing pipe which is designed to seal when tighted. Black pipe is harder to install than plastic but you only do it once. Copper will be a lot of work and not cheep. Electrical pipe have seams and may split uner pressure.

There is water in the lines concerns that can be fixed with filters and drain ports in your lines.

-- John at Sugarloft Mountain........Don't argue with an idiot; people watching may not be able to tell the difference.

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics