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Help, i made a jointer/taper jig for my table saw, but can't joint can only get tapers

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Forum topic by Johnalan1 posted 03-20-2016 02:40 PM 818 views 0 times favorited 13 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Johnalan1

39 posts in 358 days


03-20-2016 02:40 PM

Topic tags/keywords: jig question tip help table saw tapering jig tapering jointing

Hello, i’ve made a tapering jig (i can add pics if you want) i basically copied this design ”:http://www.simplyeasydiy.com/2014/02/diy-table-saw-jointing-and-tapering-jig.html”

I ordered adhesive ruler tape, i hope that will help,

how do i keep from cutting a taper? i’m trying to joint but i keep cutting a slight taper, one end will be 5 1/2 and one will be 5 3/4.

any suggestions would be greatly appreciated

-- John Darlington Sc https://www.etsy.com/shop/JohnsScrollsaw


13 replies so far

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Johnalan1

39 posts in 358 days


#1 posted 03-20-2016 03:08 PM

i forgot to add, the base i was useing was perfectly (enough within a 64th) straight i used mdf shevling stock

-- John Darlington Sc https://www.etsy.com/shop/JohnsScrollsaw

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Mark

820 posts in 1438 days


#2 posted 03-20-2016 03:42 PM

I made one of these things several yrs ago and have always had great success. 1/4” in 8’(?) that’s quite a bit. Are you sure your blade is parallel to the fence? There’s not to much else that will effect the cut.

-- Mark

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Johnalan1

39 posts in 358 days


#3 posted 03-20-2016 04:01 PM

now thinking of it the rip fence is was prob out of square i just have a cheap table saw and the rip fence is one that can lock at an angle

-- John Darlington Sc https://www.etsy.com/shop/JohnsScrollsaw

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jerryminer

528 posts in 905 days


#4 posted 03-20-2016 04:52 PM

I (respectfully) disagree with that diagnosis

An out-of-line rip fence will produce a rough cut and/or burning, but if the workpiece is kept tight to the fence as it passes the blade, the two edges will be parallel, not tapered.

I think your work is either not placed in the jig parallel to the fence, or it is not staying in that position. Could it be shifting during processing? Or is the jig drifting away from the fence?

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Rick M

7913 posts in 1843 days


#5 posted 03-20-2016 05:04 PM

Jointing does not produce parallel sides, it makes something flat and/or perpendicular to an adjoining side. Joint first, then use just your TS to rip and make the edges parallel.

-- http://thewoodknack.blogspot.com/

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Richard H

489 posts in 1144 days


#6 posted 03-20-2016 05:13 PM

What are you referencing off of when you set the board to be jointed in the jig? The video you posted has the jig running in the miter track so assuming you are doing the same that is what establishes the reference edge. If you left the jig oversized and cut off the excess the first time you ran it though the blade than the edge against the blade should be parallel to that miter slot however the other right edge of the jig is probably not parallel and not a reference edge. When setting up your piece to be jointed measure off the left edge assuming you cut it parallel not the right edge. Is the spacing between the blade and the left edge of the jig consistent or does a gap open up as you push the jig by the blade?

Also as Rick M. said you only use this jig for one edge than flip the board around and use the freshly sawn edge against your rip fence to make two edges parallel to each other.

Hope this helps,

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jerryminer

528 posts in 905 days


#7 posted 03-20-2016 05:14 PM


Jointing does not produce parallel sides, it makes something flat and/or perpendicular to an adjoining side. Joint first, then use just your TS to rip and make the edges parallel.

- Rick M.

Yes, but we’re not talking about jointing on a jointer. We’re talking about getting “jointed” edges on a tablesaw.

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AlaskaGuy

2406 posts in 1772 days


#8 posted 03-20-2016 05:28 PM

Are you using that jig to “joint” both sides of the same board?

-- Alaskan's for Global warming!

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Rick M

7913 posts in 1843 days


#9 posted 03-20-2016 05:55 PM


Yes, but …
- jerryminer

There is no “but”. It doesn’t matter if you are using a jointer, a saw, or a hand plane; jointing does not produce parallel edges. The problem isn’t the jig, it’s a misunderstanding of the terminology and proper way to dress rough lumber.

Order of operations from rough stock, can be done with power or hand tools:
1) joint one face
2) joint one edge
3) plane faces parallel
4) cut edges parallel

-- http://thewoodknack.blogspot.com/

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jerryminer

528 posts in 905 days


#10 posted 03-20-2016 06:03 PM

Rick M—

Good point.

Joint first, then rip parallel

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Johnalan1

39 posts in 358 days


#11 posted 03-20-2016 11:14 PM

@alaskaguy, no, @richardh, no i do it along my fence

-- John Darlington Sc https://www.etsy.com/shop/JohnsScrollsaw

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rubber_ducky

35 posts in 341 days


#12 posted 03-20-2016 11:45 PM

I agree with what many of the others have said already. If you’re only using your jig to joint one edge of the board and using your TS fence to rip the opposite edge to width and you’re ending up out of parallel, then the problem is unlikely in the jig but rather in the TS fence.

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Rick M

7913 posts in 1843 days


#13 posted 03-21-2016 01:23 AM

<blockquote>
@alaskaguy, no, @richardh, no i do it along my fence

- Johnalan1
</blockquote>

Explain your procedure and equipment used, be specific.

-- http://thewoodknack.blogspot.com/

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