LumberJocks

How to make this top

  • Advertise with us

« back to Designing Woodworking Projects forum

Forum topic by Gixxerjoe04 posted 03-20-2016 01:23 PM 521 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View Gixxerjoe04's profile

Gixxerjoe04

835 posts in 1036 days


03-20-2016 01:23 PM

I’ve got a friend who needs a new top made for a cedar blanket chest after her dog made one side a chew toy. The original one has trim around it that extends down to go around the outside of the chest. Originally I didn’t notice the lip and was just going to make the edge profile match the best I could and not add the trim because I didn’t want to have worry about wood movement. Now I gotta figure out what I should do to make the lip around the outside, the original one was just nailed on. Any suggestions? And yes she did stain the outside of a cedar chest for some reason haha
 photo DD209C30-4F0D-4690-82D6-830B4E9513EC_zpsaup1cbkg.jpg
 photo 1D68CD87-5E00-42EF-93E8-72E869793394_zpsjeneaioo.jpg


6 replies so far

View gwilki's profile

gwilki

121 posts in 933 days


#1 posted 03-20-2016 02:40 PM

Route the profile you want into the side grain of your wood, then dado out the back of the “moulding” you just made to give you the overhang you want. It’s like making a picture frame – sort of.

To attach it to the top itself, I would use glue and pin nails. But, you can simply glue and tape clamp it, too.

-- Grant Wilkinson, Ottawa ON

View jerryminer's profile

jerryminer

528 posts in 901 days


#2 posted 03-20-2016 05:07 PM

If you duplicate the original construction, you will have issues with wood movement—-as the original had (we see the crack at the nail in the pic).

Possible approaches:

Use plywood for the top (which could be veneered with cedar or whatever)

Breadboard ends

Make the lipping from solid stock and use end-grain at the ends

Make a frame-and panel top with a floating panel

Accept (and have the client accept) the risk of movement and use the original nail-on system

View Aj2's profile

Aj2

686 posts in 1258 days


#3 posted 03-20-2016 08:34 PM

What a perfect pic of long grain cross grain wood movement. The nail with a crack.

View firefighterontheside's profile

firefighterontheside

13442 posts in 1316 days


#4 posted 03-20-2016 08:48 PM

I think Grant said what I’m thinking. Make a top that’s thick enough to create the profile. Then route out a channel in the underside that allows the top to fit down over the box.

-- Bill M. "People change, walnut doesn't" by Gene.

View CaptainSkully's profile

CaptainSkully

1427 posts in 3018 days


#5 posted 03-24-2016 01:42 PM

I think the best way to do it, if you’re going to do it right, is try to find a router bit for that profile. If not, custom shaper blades can be made for your table saw pretty reasonably. Make the profiled edges out of solid wood and wrap a piece of veneered plywood of the same species. Today’s glues are strong enough, especially if you make a rabbet in the solid wood to accept the plywood edge and give it a shoulder to positively locate on.

-- You can't control the wind, but you can trim your sails

View JAAune's profile

JAAune

1634 posts in 1777 days


#6 posted 03-24-2016 02:00 PM

The pieces on the end can be installed with sliding dovetails. Then glue the first 8-12” to the panel but leave the rest floating.

-- See my work at http://remmertstudios.com and http://altaredesign.com

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com