Forum topic by Steamboater | posted 03-20-2016 03:59 AM | 922 views | 0 times favorited | 13 replies | ![]() |
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03-20-2016 03:59 AM |
I have little experience with Mitered joints. Could somone please advise me, should I cut the 45 angles first, then glue them, and then rout/ finish the outside edges, or rout the outside edges first? Thanks for your help. |
13 replies so far
#1 posted 03-20-2016 05:02 AM |
It would help to know what you’re making. There is often more than one “right” way. Generally, I would glue, then clean up, then finish. What sort of routing operation are you talking about? -- Jerry, making sawdust professionally since 1976 |
#2 posted 03-20-2016 05:13 AM |
Run your inside & outside routing when the stock is still full length. When mitered it will fold around perfectly. M -- Madmark - Madmark2150@yahoo.com Wiretreefarm.com |
#3 posted 03-20-2016 08:36 AM |
Six of one and a half-dozen of the other. -- I dream of a world where a duck can cross the road and no one asks why. |
#4 posted 03-20-2016 02:01 PM |
Depending on the profile, you may find that it’s much harder to clamp if you route first. -- Gerry, http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/index.html http://www.jointcam.com |
#5 posted 03-20-2016 02:13 PM |
Easier to rout straight sticks of wood than a box shape. If you get a burned spot or chatter after you’ve made the frame you’ll kick yourself. |
#6 posted 03-20-2016 02:15 PM |
mill, route, sand, miter, quick finish coat, glue, finish “Size” (apply a coat of glue to the end grain to make a better bond) the end grain if you have the time. :) |
#7 posted 03-20-2016 02:20 PM |
I rout the inside edge first (on full lengths), |
#8 posted 03-20-2016 02:46 PM |
Wow! what a responsive bunch of people, As a new comer to Lumberjocks, I am truly impressed. Thanks for all the advice. This project is a music box Mounted on a mitered base frame 7×20 x 7/8. The frames are 2 1/2” wide. The material is rosewood. (Pau Ferro). The lid is also a frame slightly smaller but 1 1/2” wide, capped with a solid top panel 4×18 x 7/8. All outside edges are to be routed with a Freud 99-450 2 1/2” Diameter Table edge router bit. This bit will remove a good portion of the Edge over a 1” wide profile. I can’t say that I have ever routed anything this aggressive before, and the cost of the material leaves very little room for error. Appreciate any advice available. Thanks |
#9 posted 03-20-2016 04:13 PM |
Safer, IMHO, to rout that table edge profile before glue-up. If you put the frame together first, you run the risk of “blow-out” at the corners. -- Jerry, making sawdust professionally since 1976 |
#10 posted 03-21-2016 02:14 AM |
I’m sure wood species makes a Big difference. IDK, maybe experience helps. Knowing how fast to go, and how big of cuts to take. |
#11 posted 03-21-2016 03:22 PM |
Thanks for all the advice. All of your input has me thinking in several different directions, which is good, I think. I have decided to make two duplicate frame/sets out of Mahogany and test both methods first. This should reveal any problems I might have with my router skills and assembly procedure. I have also had to construct a new miter sled for my table saw and this should be a good test run. Will save the rosewood for last. Thanks again for all the support. |
#12 posted 03-21-2016 05:08 PM |
I was a picture framer for many years and we mitered nothing but finished moldings with the rabbet already cut. When I make frames from wood stock I do the same. I cut the rabbet with either a dado head or a rabbet bit in my router mounted in a table. -- This post is a hand-crafted natural product. Slight variations in spelling and grammar should not be viewed as flaws or defects, but rather as an integral characteristic of the creative process. |
#13 posted 03-23-2016 11:03 PM |
” I have decided to make two duplicate frame/sets out of Mahogany and test both methods first. This should reveal any problems I might have with my router skills and assembly procedure. ... Will save the rosewood for last ” -- Dr C |
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