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Forum topic by pogingungas posted 03-18-2016 05:39 PM 1115 views 1 time favorited 36 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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pogingungas

10 posts in 262 days


03-18-2016 05:39 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question tablesaw

Hi everyone,

I’ve been researching table saws since I currently have a small craftsman job site. Though it works fine for a hobbyist I figured it may be time to upgrade. I have a future project in mind which is inspired by Norm Abrams’ miter bench(miter saw on top of drawers with a radial arm at the end) and Jay bates.

I’ve done some research and by far saw stop would be the way to go but my budget say no. The wife ok a pretty decent budget (not sure what I did right but high five right?!). What I was hoping to get with the upgraded table saw is that it would be the last table saw that I buy with good dust collection.

First I’ve looked at contractor saws by ridgid, delta, and craftsman. Delta seems the most attractive and with the price range it seems like a good deal. I like the fence system on it but dust collection seems to fall short by comparison to the craftsman and ridgid from what I heard and read with the online forums.

So I moved on to cabinet saws after doing some more research on the cabinet saws I’ve narrowed it down to grizzly g0690, g0691, or laguna fusion hybrid. All within the same price range from what I saw. Here’s where I keep going back and forth.

G0690 vs fusion -fusion has a wider rip capacity and I kind of like having at least 36”
Fusion vs g0691 – grizzly but this may be overkill with the 52 rip capacity. It’s a nice idea to have that capacity but since I haven’t seen an actual saw with a 52 inch rip in person I have no way to gauge if this would be fine or not for a 2 car garage shop.
I saw the fusion at rockler and that is one good looking saw and from what I’ve read/seen online grizzly would be the same way.
I like the portability of the fusion but with the shop fox mobile base for grizzly that gives it mobility as well.

I’ve read that Grizzly has a better rep with their customer service over laguna and this stands out like a sore thumb but I seldom see any posts in regards to the saw itself. The way I see it is that if the machine works fine after adjustments why even need CSR? Unless the fusion is just a horrible machine thus ending with a CSR experience.

I’m open to checking out other table saws that may be comparable but i’d appreciate everyone’s thoughts. What were the experiences you had if you have either the g0690/1 or fusion, good and bad.

Thanks!


36 replies so far

View MrUnix's profile (online now)

MrUnix

4224 posts in 1662 days


#1 posted 03-18-2016 05:45 PM

Since you aren’t in a rush, you have the luxury of time – you might want to use that to your advantage to find a nice saw on CL (or flea-bay, or auction sites, etc…). Twice the saw for half (or less) the price of one of those shiney new sheet metal and plastic things being sold today.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

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hotbyte

842 posts in 2439 days


#2 posted 03-18-2016 05:52 PM

With 52” rip capacity, would you want to deal with handling the material, assuming full plywood sheets, to run through it? Do you have open space to maneuver material that size into place on infeed and catch on the outfeed side?

Also, the Grizzly 1023 seems to always be another consideration when the 690 is an option.

Before getting my Delta 36-725, I was looking at the 1023 and 690. Then, my budget shrunk up and I went with the Delta. I’ve been pleased with it as compared to my old Craftsman 113 saw. Dust collection seems OK to me but, again, that’s compared to an older C’man.

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pogingungas

10 posts in 262 days


#3 posted 03-18-2016 06:19 PM

MrUnix: I’ve been searching CL consistently for at least a year now (maybe even over) and I have seen some old deltas and PM which I’m open to but with the prices they’really asking for it seems that I might as well go with a new one. Still looking though.

Hotbyte:grizzly only has the 29.5 and the 52. Ideally 36 would work for me (I think). Another thing i factored in is that the proce difference is only $100. Now i say “only” because i’m fortunate to curently have the bidget for it but i agree that wrestling full length sheet goods may be back breaking. Did you make any changes to address dust collection on your delta? I saw it at Lowe’s and it seemed it has a lot of areas where dust can still fly out of. I was hoping to have something a bit more enclosed.

I appreciate both your input

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MadMark

977 posts in 916 days


#4 posted 03-18-2016 06:24 PM

Its not the saw, its the fence that is most important. A good fence on a bad saw will cut better than a good saw with a bad fence. No matter what saw you decide on put an Incra LS-III precision fence and an M1000 miter gauge. Throw in a digital height gauge and you can turn any saw into a precision cutting machine.

Incra advert showing maxed out config


M1000 miter gauge


Digital depth gauge makes blade & bit setting a snap!

And finally my saw suggestion:

M

-- Madmark - Madmark2150@yahoo.com Wiretreefarm.com

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hotbyte

842 posts in 2439 days


#5 posted 03-18-2016 06:32 PM

I’ve not changed the dust collection any. I just connect a 2-1/2” shop vac hose to a 4” adapter at end of a 10’ 4” hose on my HF DC and run with it. It does “leak” some dust onto floor underneath but not very much. Around the legs is open enough, a quick run with shop vac every few days cleans it up. There are a few here on LJ that have removed the shroud and made it more enclosed with a 4” DC connection.

A little will come off top of blade but no more than my C’man did or that seemed abnormal based on YouTube videos of other saws.

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Alan72

187 posts in 1496 days


#6 posted 03-18-2016 06:41 PM

I bought my Delta Contractors saw back in 2008 and really liked the saw. I did upgrade to a cabinet saw. But looking at the new Delta saw that is at Lowes compared to the one that I owned, the new one looks cheap. I would look for a used Jet or Delta like MadMark posted. I feel the older Contractor saw are made much better.

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TheFridge

5765 posts in 949 days


#7 posted 03-18-2016 06:44 PM

I vote for a harbor freight benchtop saw with an incra fence.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

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TheGreatJon

295 posts in 696 days


#8 posted 03-18-2016 06:51 PM



MrUnix: I ve been searching CL consistently for at least a year now (maybe even over) and I have seen some old deltas and PM which I m open to but with the prices they really asking for it seems that I might as well go with a new one. Still looking though.

- pogingungas

While I do not think that the old Delta’s and PMs should be selling for the price of a new saw, they are still better machines than the ones you’ve listed. They have heavy castings and very high quality motors/bearings. I’m not saying that the saws on your list are bad. Kind of like MarMark said, you can do quality work with almost any saw. I’m just saying that if I was choosing between two machines at the same price, I’d pick the higher quality machine, regardless of age.

And if the old Delta/PM has some rust/dents, even better. That’s just fuel for talking the price down. I cleaned up a rusty jointer last night. It took all of 20 minutes. It was just surface stuff, and the jointer ran great. Now it also looks great.

Whatever you decide, make some sawdust with it and put the purchase behind you. :)

-- This is not the signature line you are looking for.

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pogingungas

10 posts in 262 days


#9 posted 03-18-2016 08:10 PM

Thanks for I put everyone. I agree with the good fence system/bad saw. The saw that I have isn’t bad at all but the fence deflect now a good 1/8 inch and being hit with kick back apparently hurts a lot. I’m glad it only got me in the arm and left a pretty bad a** scar but I know it could’ve been way worse. Thus making me aprehensive of using the saw in its current condition. I have an old craftsman radial arm and IMO that thing is built like a tank. Everything on it is heavy but the power switch. So older machines are not out of the question. Just the ones that i’be seen on CL are just ridiculous.

I’d appreciate some input on the old delta unisaw. I recall this was one of the saws that I considered. I just don’t remember why I moved on from that thought. Is that worth buying off CL? At what price point would it be a decent deal (out here in Socal if are matters)?

Just to add on the saw option, I just saw posted a PM 64a for $625. Seems to be in good condition but it doesn’t look like it has a roving knife. I think they’really called splitters. Frank Howarth made a video of making it a while back just to have something to reference off on. Are those as safe as a roving knife?

Again, this has been very informative. Keep the info coming.

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MrUnix

4224 posts in 1662 days


#10 posted 03-18-2016 08:28 PM

A riving knife is just a better designed splitter – they both serve the same purpose. A Unisaw (or PM66) would probably be the last saw you would ever need to buy, and nice ones can typically be found in the $500-$1000 range with lots of extras you would otherwise have to purchase separately with a new saw. Much more machine than that PM64 contractor saw, which is way overpriced IMO. Most will also either come with a Unifence or Biesemeyer fence. Three phase machines will typically be less than their single phase counterparts, and with a VFD, can give you a lot of benefits you can’t get otherwise.

Here are a few in your area you may want to take a look at:

3hp single phase Unisaw w/biesemeyer – $900
3hp X5 Unisaw – $800 – Needs table cleaned, so you could use condition to get it for less
2hp 3-phase Unisaw – $675
There are also a couple under $500 that need some cleanup, but might be worth considering as well.
Don’t like any of those – don’t worry, there will be dozens more to follow :)

Cheers,
Brad

PS: Keep in mind that good deals go fast… so if you waste time asking if you should get something and wait around for answers from others, it will most likely be gone by the time you make a decision. Know what you want, and be ready to jump when it turns up.

-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

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knotscott

7211 posts in 2839 days


#11 posted 03-18-2016 08:43 PM

The Fusion is not a cabinet saw, it’s a hybrid. The G0690 will have 50% more power, much more robust underpinnings, more mass, larger handwheels, and a much stouter fence. The fence rail on the Fusion is a two-piece aluminum rail, vs a thick solid steel rail on the G0690. The G0690 is nearly identical to the Laguna Platinum. The Fusion is more comparable to the G0715P or G0771. No contest, go with the G0690 if you have 220v and the budget, and slide the front rail over by one bolt hole to get 40” rip.

Fusion:

Platinum:

G0690:


-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View JackDuren's profile

JackDuren

136 posts in 423 days


#12 posted 03-18-2016 10:49 PM


A riving knife is just a better designed splitter – they both serve the same purpose. A Unisaw (or PM66) would probably be the last saw you would ever need to buy, and nice ones can typically be found in the $500-$1000 range with lots of extras you would otherwise have to purchase separately with a new saw. Much more machine than that PM64 contractor saw, which is way overpriced IMO. Most will also either come with a Unifence or Biesemeyer fence. Three phase machines will typically be less than their single phase counterparts, and with a VFD, can give you a lot of benefits you can t get otherwise.

Here are a few in your area you may want to take a look at:

3hp single phase Unisaw w/biesemeyer – $900
3hp X5 Unisaw – $800 – Needs table cleaned, so you could use condition to get it for less
2hp 3-phase Unisaw – $675
There are also a couple under $500 that need some cleanup, but might be worth considering as well.
Don t like any of those – don t worry, there will be dozens more to follow :)

Cheers,
Brad

PS: Keep in mind that good deals go fast… so if you waste time asking if you should get something and wait around for answers from others, it will most likely be gone by the time you make a decision. Know what you want, and be ready to jump when it turns up.

- MrUnix

The X5 is a shaper

#1 You don’t need an Incra #2 You mainly only need the the 52” rip capacity if your doing cabinets. #3 Use the 52” to install a router. #3 Considering a later resale #4 Fits just fine in a two car garage

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MrUnix

4224 posts in 1662 days


#13 posted 03-18-2016 11:14 PM

The X5 is a shaper

LOL – I didn’t even really look at the pictures, just the title….
Guess that should go over in the Craigslist posters have gone nuts..... thread :)

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

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pogingungas

10 posts in 262 days


#14 posted 03-18-2016 11:18 PM

Thanks for the links MrUnix. I was able to touch bases with the person that is selling the unisaw with the biesemeyer fence. Hopefully things work out and I’ll keep you guys posted. Pretty excited about it.

Thanks everyone!

Knotscott: for my own knowledge, i always thought cabinet saw meant the actual saw part is mounted on the machine body as opposed to table mounted. What make the fusion a hybrid? Motor capacity?

View MrUnix's profile (online now)

MrUnix

4224 posts in 1662 days


#15 posted 03-18-2016 11:26 PM

Thanks for the links MrUnix. I was able to touch bases with the person that is selling the unisaw with the biesemeyer fence. Hopefully things work out and I ll keep you guys posted. Pretty excited about it.

Thanks everyone!

Knotscott: for my own knowledge, i always thought cabinet saw meant the actual saw part is mounted on the machine body as opposed to table mounted. What make the fusion a hybrid? Motor capacity?

- pogingungas

Hope you get to it first.. you have a good chance as it’s only been out there less than a day (and I don’t know how I screwed up the link! Real link here).

And the difference between a caninet saw and hybrid is cabinet saws have cabinet mounted trunnions, while hybrids have table mounted trunnions and are more like contractor saws, but the motor is inside the cabinet instead of hanging out back.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

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