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Joining Plywood to solid Phenolic ???

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Forum topic by Tribalwind posted 03-05-2010 01:39 AM 1413 views 1 time favorited 5 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Tribalwind

69 posts in 2623 days


03-05-2010 01:39 AM

i’m at the beginning of building a mobile base for my benchtop tablesaw (ryobi bt3100) originally was just going to do it all in ply, but i have a nice big piece of 3/4” phenolic that i thought would make a good flat bottom, since the ply is not.
sort of act as a Torsion-Box ,without all the work.

ran into a problem when screwing on the casters. i quickly found out that it does NOT take lag screws well!
my solution to the casters is to just drill straight through and bolt them on.i can recess the hex head on top.

but i’m puzzled how to affix the sides and inner walls. i’d hoped to pocket screw,but that’s out now . i could use L bar with through bolts and screw into the ply,but thats a lot of expensive l-bar ($10-4ft) and hardware.

right now im thinking build the box with a bottom allw ith pocket screws, and just bolt it to the phenolic in a few places…maybe that’d keep it flat enough…or maybe not….

any ideas?

-- Matthew,Long island ny. www.tribalwind.com


5 replies so far

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something_vague

15 posts in 2475 days


#1 posted 03-05-2010 06:50 PM

I don’t really understand what you’re trying to do or say. But I would save the phenolic for the top surfaces for durability and slickness. I would also have a layer of plywood underneath the phenolic or at least in the corners so you can just glue the phenolic to the plywood and not have to have bolts coming through the phenolic. Contact cement would work for the glue. BTW, where did you get your 3/4” sheet of phenolic and what kind of price did you pay?

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Ger21

1047 posts in 2594 days


#2 posted 03-05-2010 06:57 PM

Rough the phenolic with 60 or 80 grit sandpaper, and use epoxy. You can drill and tap it, but you need to be careful, as it can split or crack.

-- Gerry, http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/index.html http://www.jointcam.com

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Tribalwind

69 posts in 2623 days


#3 posted 03-05-2010 07:29 PM

yes i’ll have it on top as well, the idea of having it as the base bottom was to keep everything flat and square,prevent twisting as my garage,,er,c”craft studio” cement slab is not all that flat.

i actually have a local source that i get leftovers/cutoffs free,friendly with the manager.. i have too much on hand now so started selling it ,i posted some here in the sellers forum,and have some on ebay, if you need some let me know! :) got 2 big pieces on there too now.

Gerry.
split and crack,yep, that’s for sure! glad i used a test piece!
so just glue it to a piece of ply the same size? yea i think the bottom ply layer is the ticket
maybe i’ll do a combo. epoxy same-size ply,and through bolts in corners/middles/center.

think polyurethane/gorilla-glue would work or should i just stick to 2-part epoxy ?

-- Matthew,Long island ny. www.tribalwind.com

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Tribalwind

69 posts in 2623 days


#4 posted 03-06-2010 02:38 AM

i went with bolting the casters on through the phenolic and a piece of equally-sized 3/4-ply. no glue.its very solid !.
also added bolts in the middle along the long edges, the short sides were flat and dont seem to need it.
i’ll add one more bolt to the middle-center for good measure.. recessing the head worked,but what a pain, i drilled the pieces separately , though i was being careful with the locating,in hindsight this was a mistake.far better would be to drill right through both so the holes were perfectly registered…
anyhow, now i can move along with the rest of the carcass with pocket-joinery, then get onto making the top (also phenolic)

thanks’

-- Matthew,Long island ny. www.tribalwind.com

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Ger21

1047 posts in 2594 days


#5 posted 03-06-2010 08:57 PM

Epoxy is better, as the foaming from polyurethane will push them apart.

-- Gerry, http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/index.html http://www.jointcam.com

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