Air drying fresh cut lumber

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Forum topic by Woodcut1 posted 03-16-2016 02:35 AM 609 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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34 posts in 242 days

03-16-2016 02:35 AM

I have a chance to get a few hundred board ft of Wallnut . This wood is fresh cut at the mill at fifty cents a board feet they supply the logs and cut to my specifications. I will pick it up using my pick up truck. The question is does this seem like a fair price and is it possible to air dry this wood. Boards will probably be twelve inches wide some more a some less. I will get some two inches thick down to tree quarters one straight side. Any thoughts or advice?

10 replies so far

View BobAnderton's profile


210 posts in 2209 days

#1 posted 03-16-2016 02:51 AM

Fifty cents a board foot cut to your specs and they supply the walnut logs is crazy cheap. I mean crazy. Air drying that will work fine if you stack it right on the right foundation. You may need to finish the drying in an attic or inside to get down to like 8%.

-- Bob Anderton - Austin, TX - Nova 3000 lathe, Alaskan Mark III mill, Husqavarna Saw

View soob's profile


223 posts in 628 days

#2 posted 03-16-2016 03:14 AM

3/4 is too thin. You need extra for when it shrinks, cups, and twists. 1” minimum for 3/4” final thickness.

At that price, though, buy as much as they’ll sell you.

View splatman's profile


542 posts in 818 days

#3 posted 03-16-2016 03:20 AM

Stack the thin boards at the bottom, so the weight of the others will minimize warpage. Is that true?

View AZWoody's profile


680 posts in 643 days

#4 posted 03-16-2016 03:59 AM

Stack the thin boards at the bottom, so the weight of the others will minimize warpage. Is that true?

- splatman

Kind of, I try to do a few thick slabs on the bottom, then the thinner ones and then the balance of the thicker, heavy slabs on top. The 1 or 2 thick on the bottom are to help stabilize the stack in general.

I also agree not to do 3/4” in milling. I try to do a minimum of 1 1/4” but for the stack of logs I have now, I’m going to be doing 2 to 3” on everything.

Also, weight the heck out of it. I use large 30 gallon drums of water and usually 3 or more per stack. That’s 720 pounds per stack. You’d be surprised but on some squirrelly woods, the stack will still lean from a piece of wood warping.

Also, having a fan running on the wood will help with the drying and sealing the ends, even if just latex paint is recommended. I use elastomeric roofing paint but only because I have a lot of pails left over from painting my shops’s roof.

View WDHLT15's profile


1562 posts in 1895 days

#5 posted 03-16-2016 12:01 PM

Fifty cents a board foot is way way below the market price. Even tractor trailer loads of #1 common are wholesaling from the sawmills at three times that amount.

-- Danny Located in Perry, GA. Forester. Wood-Mizer LT40HD35 Sawmill. Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln.

View rwe2156's profile


2113 posts in 900 days

#6 posted 03-16-2016 12:14 PM

Can you even buy firewood that cheap?
The sawmills around here charge 60 cents just to cut logs you bring them.
I have to say double check all this before proceeding make sure he’s not just talking about sawing fee.

That being said, 4/4 is the mimimum you want rough cut lumber.
Personally when I have wood custom cut, I usually get a substantial amount in 5/4 for tops, etc.

Make sure you’ve got a good solid base to stack the lumber.
I use cement blocks and 4×4’s every 2 feet checking for level and using a string to keep it flat.
If there is direct sun on the wood, you need to cover it.
You also need to seal the endgrain of the boards.

Good luck if its all what you say, that’s a hell of a deal.

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

View Woodcut1's profile


34 posts in 242 days

#7 posted 03-16-2016 02:23 PM

I have a small covered lean two I attached to the back of my shop. It’s only 12×4 or so but it should fit most of it. I can’t carry more than 8 to 10 feet in the truck. I figure stack them there and separate with furring strips and then pipe clamp them down to the deck but I don’t have all this figured out yet, at least with not spending a lot. I am thinking of getting some pipe threaded on one end screw that into a flange and attach it to the studs in the deck frame. Put a 4×4 across the wood and get some cheap pipe clamps at HF and use the screw end of the clamp over the pipe on both sides and screw it down with a 4×4 across. I call this my pipe dream at this point but I will think of something before I get the wood. What do you think?

View soob's profile


223 posts in 628 days

#8 posted 03-17-2016 01:25 PM

You can rent a U-Haul for about $20 a day that could carry 12’ boards. Just make sure you have enough weight on the tongue.

View Woodcut1's profile


34 posts in 242 days

#9 posted 03-17-2016 01:38 PM

Thanks, I will look into this. Only problem is I don’t have a hitch on the truck for a trailer.

View tomsteve's profile


392 posts in 638 days

#10 posted 03-17-2016 02:44 PM

at that price i’ll but 1000 bf from ya for $1.50/bdft

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